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Aux Input, On Its Way
- Thread starter 1sty
- Start date
I have my auxmod ready to install and my retractable input cable. all I am waiting for is the ground loop isolator to come in the mail. I plan on running the ground loop isolator directly from the auxmod down to the ashtray, which I took out, and plugging the retractable cord into that. hopefully the ground loop isolator will reach just long enough to go to the ash tray. then all I will have to do it tuck the retractable cord into the ash tray....stealth as s***.
^ post pic's when you get it done!
I like my iPod being "loose" in my bimmer, but I can still hide it in the back of the center console which is where I brought the cable out. Not sure where to put/hide in the P5. Maybe inside of the center console? Not if the cable makes the lid fit funny, hmm...
I like my iPod being "loose" in my bimmer, but I can still hide it in the back of the center console which is where I brought the cable out. Not sure where to put/hide in the P5. Maybe inside of the center console? Not if the cable makes the lid fit funny, hmm...
Changed1MG
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5 in Laser Blue Mica
Mine arrived a couple days ago. I went to BestBuy to ask about a Ground Loop Isolator (which they don't carry, incidentally) and the Car Audio tech. was working the area. He told me that since it's the AuxMod plugs straight into the head unit like the MD or Tape deck would have, there should be no need for a GLI. What do you guys think? It would be nice to save the money on that . . .
I still haven't figured out where to run the cables, btw. lol
I still haven't figured out where to run the cables, btw. lol
^ from what I've read in this thread...
1) If your using a device that is powered by its own batteries, a GLI is not necessary.
2) If your using a device that is powered by the car itself, a GLI might be necessary.
So...
Try it out with whatever your going to use and see how it sounds. Its not like you cant add one later.
I don't quite know if you might/might not need one if your using the cigarette lighter plug to charge your device while playing it through the stereo. If its in this thread, I must have missed it. I think my nano will hold a charge for a few days, but I dunno, charging in the cigarette plug is my back-up plan.
If I end up putting the aux port on the back of the center console, I may install an additional cigarette plug back there. I think my RSX-S had one in the back of the console which came in handy. Then I can still charge my phone or tom tom up front if I need too...
Mine came in Monday or Tuesday, hope to get it in this weekend, but not sure, finals are coming up quick as well as other tests and work.
What is the plug on the actual aux-mod unit? 3.5 mm stereo?
1) If your using a device that is powered by its own batteries, a GLI is not necessary.
2) If your using a device that is powered by the car itself, a GLI might be necessary.
So...
Try it out with whatever your going to use and see how it sounds. Its not like you cant add one later.
I don't quite know if you might/might not need one if your using the cigarette lighter plug to charge your device while playing it through the stereo. If its in this thread, I must have missed it. I think my nano will hold a charge for a few days, but I dunno, charging in the cigarette plug is my back-up plan.
If I end up putting the aux port on the back of the center console, I may install an additional cigarette plug back there. I think my RSX-S had one in the back of the console which came in handy. Then I can still charge my phone or tom tom up front if I need too...
Mine came in Monday or Tuesday, hope to get it in this weekend, but not sure, finals are coming up quick as well as other tests and work.
What is the plug on the actual aux-mod unit? 3.5 mm stereo?
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Changed1MG
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5 in Laser Blue Mica
Thanks for the clarification!
And, yea, I think that's what it said, 3.5mm.
I tried doing the install today. Bought two sets of the DIN removal key things like I'd seen mentioned. I tried for about two hours to just do the removal, but once I got the trim off the sides I still could not get my stereo out. I even had the guys at AutoZone and PepBoys try and they couldn't get it out either. I don't know what's going on! Is there a trick I'm not getting?
I'm gonna see about just taking it to my Mazda Dealership service dept. and I'll have them take the HU out for me while I get the oil changed. Two birds, ya know? I'm baffled.
Yeah, how often to you hear that word used?
And, yea, I think that's what it said, 3.5mm.
I tried doing the install today. Bought two sets of the DIN removal key things like I'd seen mentioned. I tried for about two hours to just do the removal, but once I got the trim off the sides I still could not get my stereo out. I even had the guys at AutoZone and PepBoys try and they couldn't get it out either. I don't know what's going on! Is there a trick I'm not getting?
I'm gonna see about just taking it to my Mazda Dealership service dept. and I'll have them take the HU out for me while I get the oil changed. Two birds, ya know? I'm baffled.
Yeah, how often to you hear that word used?
Mine arrived a couple days ago. I went to BestBuy to ask about a Ground Loop Isolator (which they don't carry, incidentally) and the Car Audio tech. was working the area. He told me that since it's the AuxMod plugs straight into the head unit like the MD or Tape deck would have, there should be no need for a GLI. What do you guys think? It would be nice to save the money on that . . .
I still haven't figured out where to run the cables, btw. lol
I find that people at best buy (while it is a great store....yet over-priced...) have no clue what the hell they are talking about with some things.....
they only know what they have to know....and I will give it to them that they do a very good job at that...but what they don't have to know or what is not in the store they are as useful as my 13 year old dog walking on the hard wood floors...it just does not happen.
Mine arrived a couple days ago. I went to BestBuy to ask about a Ground Loop Isolator (which they don't carry, incidentally) and the Car Audio tech. was working the area. He told me that since it's the AuxMod plugs straight into the head unit like the MD or Tape deck would have, there should be no need for a GLI. What do you guys think? It would be nice to save the money on that . . .
I still haven't figured out where to run the cables, btw. lol
I find that people at best buy (while it is a great store....yet over-priced...) have no clue what the hell they are talking about with some things.....
they only know what they have to know....and I will give it to them that they do a very good job at that...but what they don't have to know or what is not in the store they are as useful as my 13 year old dog walking on the hard wood floors...it just does not happen.
oh..also...I would just order a GLI online...i mean..why the hell not? you never know what you might need...and if it does not hinder the quality (which I don't think it does) when not charging, I would just do it...
I would advise not ordering from another country form ebay just because it is cheaper...I am still waiting on mine and it has been nearly two weeks with no way of tracking...ugh
^ after re-reading this thread, I agree, get a GLI online, install it...
I'm searching and searching trying to find some type of "jack" were I can drill a hold in the back of the center console and have a female "jack" there. I want it to look factory, would be awesome if it had a label "aux in," any ideas?
My goal is to have that above and an additional power "cigarette lighter" source below it, and to have it all look factory.
Like I said, I think my RSX-S had one in the back of the center console, so I'll look for one from Honda. Any ideas on my "jack?"
Thanks!
I'm searching and searching trying to find some type of "jack" were I can drill a hold in the back of the center console and have a female "jack" there. I want it to look factory, would be awesome if it had a label "aux in," any ideas?
My goal is to have that above and an additional power "cigarette lighter" source below it, and to have it all look factory.
Like I said, I think my RSX-S had one in the back of the center console, so I'll look for one from Honda. Any ideas on my "jack?"
Thanks!
Changed1MG
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5 in Laser Blue Mica
I still haven't been able to get the head unit out in the first place (FAIL), so I'm gonna wait until I have a chance to drop by the dealership and have them remove it for me. I don't want to have to redo it later, so I think I will just get the GLI.
As far as installing a female input on the dash, I think that'd be ideal, but, I don't have a clue how you'd manage the install - let alone make it look factory. I did find this adapter, but I don't know how you'd install it to look stock.
As far as installing a female input on the dash, I think that'd be ideal, but, I don't have a clue how you'd manage the install - let alone make it look factory. I did find this adapter, but I don't know how you'd install it to look stock.
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I've had the head-unit out before, so I'm kinda familiar with it. I'm going to try this method in which HU removal is not necessary...
Thats about all I've found too, thanks for posting. I'll keep looking, went to radio shack earlier, wow, pricy, I shall now purchase my stuff online...
Hi all, back again... I just received the Sylfex AuxMod board a few days ago and installed it today in my 2003 Protege5. The thing is, I spent more time trying to figure out how to remove the entire head unit (HU) than actually installing the AuxMod board.
That said, I found it MUCH easier to just remove the Tape/MD bay faceplate and install the board without removing the HU (NOTE: Mazda3 or Mazda6 models need to remove the entire HU). It's not SUPER easy, but if you have a bit of patience, you'll probably save yourself a load of hassle you'd get trying to get the HU out.
1. Disconnect car battery terminals (protect yourself + the components)
2. Remove the Tape/MD faceplate - the port that the AuxMod board plugs into is in plain view (back middle of the bay on the topside)
3. Practice maneuvering the board into position without taking the film off the doublestick pads. It's pretty simple, and the HVAC cables allow you to use them as a guide. The board does not snap in place - it sits very loosely in the port, hence the need for sticky pads.
4. Now that you've got it in place, pull the board back out, remove the double-stick protective film and maneuver the board back in place VERY carefully.
5. Press the board firmly to make sure it sticks.
6. Plug in your 3.5mm (1/8") stereo jack... you should really use a GLI (Ground Loop Insulator) to avoid the interference in the audio when driving the car - will occur for any audio source plugged into the cig lighter power. Radio Shack's is the one I used.
7. My setup is AuxMod connected via 3.5mm, split to Red/Why phono jacks to GLI, GLI red/wht phono jacks split back to 3.5mm, where I can connect m iPod/Sirius.
8. Once you have your wiring all fished to where you need it, MAKE SURE you securely fasten the 3.5mm wiring to the HU case with cable ties - as close to the board connection as possible, for two reasons (1. to keep the plug plugged in even with extensive jarring/bumping... 2. to keep the weight of the wiring/GLI from pulling on the AuxMod board.)
9. Close everything up (i.e. the Tape/MD bay faceplate) and you're done!
Hope this helps - I really did find it 10X easier to not remove the HU and saved my dash/etc from getting scratched up.
Thats about all I've found too, thanks for posting. I'll keep looking, went to radio shack earlier, wow, pricy, I shall now purchase my stuff online...
Changed1MG
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5 in Laser Blue Mica
I had a return at BestBuy, so, as I was already there, I explained to the Car Audio tech (turned out to be the same guy from before) about my problems taking the head unit out of my Protege for the last three or four days.
Long story short, he got it out . . . and celebration ensued. Truly, I have nothing bad to say about the guys at BestBuy. They've helped me out before, and, they always do an awesome job.
I was so ecstatic to have it out (FINALLY) that I did the AuxMod install right there in the parking lot - so, sorry, no pics. Like everyone before me has said, this thing works perfectly! There is significant "hum" when my phone is charging without having a ground loop isolator in place (so yes, I will definitely have to install a GLI later), but, for now this = satisfaction.
When I go to install the GLI later, I'll take step by step pics then.
It turned out that the HU wouldn't come out because the bracket securing it to the center console on the passenger side was overextended, and, the Ford keys couldn't even make contact with it. We had to pry the trim (the faux carbon fiber and silver-painted plastic) away from the console (note: it won't move far with the HVAC controls connected), depress the bracket through the hole in the dash with a flat-head screwdriver (you'll see the hole I'm talking about if you detach the dash), slide a Ford key into the HU's appropriate holes to keep the bracket pressed flat against the side of the HU, then, finish removing the HU by attacking the other side with a Ford key as usual. ::frustrating:: It actually only required two Ford keys in the first two holes from the top. Save your money and only buy one set.
I ran the cords from the AuxMod > through the back of the console > through the gap in the back of the ashtray > and, into the storage pocket under the HVAC controls. I bought a male-to-female 3.5mm Belkin extension cable to connect from the AuxMod behind the center console to a 6ft coiled male-to-male Belkin 3.5mm cable which runs from just through the back of the ashtray into the storage pocket. So, from the cabin, only the 6ft cable is accessible, and it stays tightly-coiled in the storage pocket when not used. It doesn't look stock exactly, but it is convenient and somewhat stealthy.
Long story short, he got it out . . . and celebration ensued. Truly, I have nothing bad to say about the guys at BestBuy. They've helped me out before, and, they always do an awesome job.
I was so ecstatic to have it out (FINALLY) that I did the AuxMod install right there in the parking lot - so, sorry, no pics. Like everyone before me has said, this thing works perfectly! There is significant "hum" when my phone is charging without having a ground loop isolator in place (so yes, I will definitely have to install a GLI later), but, for now this = satisfaction.
When I go to install the GLI later, I'll take step by step pics then.
It turned out that the HU wouldn't come out because the bracket securing it to the center console on the passenger side was overextended, and, the Ford keys couldn't even make contact with it. We had to pry the trim (the faux carbon fiber and silver-painted plastic) away from the console (note: it won't move far with the HVAC controls connected), depress the bracket through the hole in the dash with a flat-head screwdriver (you'll see the hole I'm talking about if you detach the dash), slide a Ford key into the HU's appropriate holes to keep the bracket pressed flat against the side of the HU, then, finish removing the HU by attacking the other side with a Ford key as usual. ::frustrating:: It actually only required two Ford keys in the first two holes from the top. Save your money and only buy one set.
I ran the cords from the AuxMod > through the back of the console > through the gap in the back of the ashtray > and, into the storage pocket under the HVAC controls. I bought a male-to-female 3.5mm Belkin extension cable to connect from the AuxMod behind the center console to a 6ft coiled male-to-male Belkin 3.5mm cable which runs from just through the back of the ashtray into the storage pocket. So, from the cabin, only the 6ft cable is accessible, and it stays tightly-coiled in the storage pocket when not used. It doesn't look stock exactly, but it is convenient and somewhat stealthy.
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^ installed mine today too...
Did it the way I quoted above, took no time at all, didn't have to remove the head unit. I have "small" hands for a guy, and I barely got it up in there, but I did! Works great! I pulled my nano out of the Bimmer today, synced it, and ended up leaving it at the house. Works great with iPhone, friend called while I was playin with it, talked to her through the speakers for a few minutes. Probably wont use it much with my iPhone though.
I don't have it "permanent" in there yet, just got the 3.5 cord coming out of the casette/md slot all ghetto for now. Plan to do 3.5mm -> RCA -> GLI -> RCA -> 3.5mm jack (if I can ever find one that looks good) along the console to the back then 3.5mm from that jack to the nano. Still looking for an "OEM" looking power port to install back there too. Thinking about hitting up a junk yard, probably the cheapest route.
Did it the way I quoted above, took no time at all, didn't have to remove the head unit. I have "small" hands for a guy, and I barely got it up in there, but I did! Works great! I pulled my nano out of the Bimmer today, synced it, and ended up leaving it at the house. Works great with iPhone, friend called while I was playin with it, talked to her through the speakers for a few minutes. Probably wont use it much with my iPhone though.
I don't have it "permanent" in there yet, just got the 3.5 cord coming out of the casette/md slot all ghetto for now. Plan to do 3.5mm -> RCA -> GLI -> RCA -> 3.5mm jack (if I can ever find one that looks good) along the console to the back then 3.5mm from that jack to the nano. Still looking for an "OEM" looking power port to install back there too. Thinking about hitting up a junk yard, probably the cheapest route.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PERIPHERAL-PDM3...ltDomain_0?hash=item5d246b3080#ht_2589wt_1038
This might be as close as I can get...
Ended up pulling the deck after I posted the last post and mounted it properly as I was afraid it would fall out going down the road. Ran the cable along the console and out through the e-brake for now.
Skip swapping to RCA, I'll probably just get one of these...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ground-Loop-Iso...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b5fbb244
This might be as close as I can get...
Ended up pulling the deck after I posted the last post and mounted it properly as I was afraid it would fall out going down the road. Ran the cable along the console and out through the e-brake for now.
Skip swapping to RCA, I'll probably just get one of these...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ground-Loop-Iso...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item19b5fbb244
Changed1MG
Member
- :
- '03 Mazda Protege5 in Laser Blue Mica
That GLI looks perfect and kinda shady at the same time lol. I love how it has no labels on it except a sticker to say "Ground Loop Isolator." That would make a great solution to fill both purposes of extension and GLI, though. I'd like to hear what you think of it if you buy one. I might wind up getting one when I'm ready for a GLI to save having to swap to RCA and back.
So, how does that mountable aux input plate stay affixed? It looks like it could be easily pulled out of the drilled hole through which it is run if there's nothing to brace it to the surface on the other side. It's the only viable option I've seen so far, though, for a stock-looking install.
Btw, I like your idea of running the cables down the tunnel and out through the handbrake - that's pretty clever! Maybe you could mount the AUX-in plate somewhere on the casing for the handbrake there too. That way it'd be even more easily accessible from the driver's seat.
So, how does that mountable aux input plate stay affixed? It looks like it could be easily pulled out of the drilled hole through which it is run if there's nothing to brace it to the surface on the other side. It's the only viable option I've seen so far, though, for a stock-looking install.
Btw, I like your idea of running the cables down the tunnel and out through the handbrake - that's pretty clever! Maybe you could mount the AUX-in plate somewhere on the casing for the handbrake there too. That way it'd be even more easily accessible from the driver's seat.
50 mission cap
Member
I've got a stock 2003 p5... what is the best option out there in terms of connecting an ipod to the existing stereo?
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