Audio questions and subwoofer questions.

supacharged21

Member
:
Mazda-CX9-Grand Touring
Hello me and my wife just purchased a 2011 GT with basic radio. I am curious if I can install my subwoofer/amp off of this unit somehow? I need some sort of RCA output for the amplifier. I would just install an aftermarket head unit, but not sure if I can retain the MPG and Clock in the upper dash.

Does the cx9 have one harness installed from factory that utilizes both BOSE and the standard head unit.
 
I have no clue what is behind the stock head unit, since my wife is completely happy with her bose system. You can tap into one of the speakers, rear most likely, and run a Line Out Converter, it converts the speaker wires to RCA's, so you can then plug it into your sub amp. Run power, ground, remote, and start jamming :) You can get them for $4 all the way up to $100, just depends on what you want. If you just want to run an amp for a sub, anything cheap will do.

But, if it was mine, I would gut the system and install a new head unit, then subs, then door speakers, just because.
 
The harness is the same with and without Bose, but if you have Bose then you have to use an adapter to turn the Bose on. PAC and PIE make one, but if it works anything like it did in my wife's CX-7, then it sucks. But you don't have to worry about that.
 
If you're gonna put a sub in the car, I agree with blackntan, use a line out converter and tap either a rear door speaker or a quarter panel speaker...But due to how small the quarter panel speakers are, I'm wondering if those may have a crossover from the factory to avoid lows, so tapping the rear door speakers may provide the best signal range, as much of a pain as it would be to run cables that far.
 
Here's my thread on sub.. I've recently install this setup on my 2012 M5GT. It gives you an idea.. it works really well as well.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...-with-10-quot-Kicker-Box-and-All-Weather-Mats
Hello me and my wife just purchased a 2011 GT with basic radio. I am curious if I can install my subwoofer/amp off of this unit somehow? I need some sort of RCA output for the amplifier. I would just install an aftermarket head unit, but not sure if I can retain the MPG and Clock in the upper dash.

Does the cx9 have one harness installed from factory that utilizes both BOSE and the standard head unit.
 
my installer used mazato and pac to install the sub and replace my head unit i use the pioneer avic 120bt hope this helps
 
You can just tap into the rear speaker posts, I just basically soldered my wire onto them. Put the mono amp in the storage compartment on top of the spare tire, and just ran the 8 gauge wire from the battery, and the +12VDC accessory (switched) to the amp from the fuse panel using a Busmann Mini Fuse adaptor. Ground posts are typically located in the corner side panels and also one near where the third brake light is. Removing the panels are rather simple if you have the right tools such as trim/door panel remover.
so tapping the rear door speakers may provide the best signal range, as much of a pain as it would be to run cables that far.
 
Just out of curiosity, would you HAVE to tap into both R and L for a dual voicecoil? I know literally nothing about music recording, but could not imagine why any bass instrument would be recorded on just one channel during any point in a song.
 
Yes, correct. Amp will have L and R inputs, usually a harness.
You can just tap into the rear speaker posts, I just basically soldered my wire onto them. Put the mono amp in the storage compartment on top of the spare tire, and just ran the 8 gauge wire from the battery, and the +12VDC accessory (switched) to the amp from the fuse panel using a Busmann Mini Fuse adaptor. Ground posts are typically located in the corner side panels and also one near where the third brake light is. Removing the panels are rather simple if you have the right tools such as trim/door panel remover.
 
I know this thread is old, but alternately to do this another way would be to install a sound processor. This will take the signal and flatten out the pre equalized curve set by the factory head unit (the rear speakers in the previous example). This will clean up the signal for the amp, and will provide better sound while being adjustable. The one I have purchased has several rca outputs that allows you to not only hook up a subwoofer/amp, but also additional amps to power all other speakers in the car. Ultimately this is the best way to get control of your audio system without pulling the head unit and replacing it.

I was semi frustrated with the audio options for some of the newer stereos in later vehicles, but this is the way to get to good sound, while retaining factory look and saving on a head unit. I purchased mine for $120.00 vs a 30.00 Line output converter, but think it is worth the extra $.

I figured this might be good info to add since I started the thread a while back.
 
Last edited:
I know this thread is old, but alternately to do this another way would be to install a sound processor. This will take the signal and flatten out the pre equalized curve set by the factory head unit (the rear speakers in the previous example). This will clean up the signal for the amp, and will provide better sound while being adjustable. The one I have purchased has several rca outputs that allows you to not only hook up a subwoofer/amp, but also additional amps to power all other speakers in the car. Ultimately this is the best way to get control of your audio system without pulling the head unit and replacing it.

I was semi frustrated with the audio options for some of the newer stereos in later vehicles, but this is the way to get to good sound, while retaining factory look and saving on a head unit. I purchased mine for $120.00 vs a 30.00 Line output converter, but think it is worth the extra $.

I figured this might be good info to add since I started the thread a while back.

Were you able to connect the sound processor before the factory Bose amp, or did you have to tap into the speaker outputs after the amp? Ideally, I would like to install the sound processor before it hits the factory amp to get the cleanest signals for my aftermarket amps.
 
Were you able to connect the sound processor before the factory Bose amp, or did you have to tap into the speaker outputs after the amp? Ideally, I would like to install the sound processor before it hits the factory amp to get the cleanest signals for my aftermarket amps.

sound processors like jl audio, audio control, or alpine all require signal to be accessed after the oem amp. they want to see speaker signals, not low level signals.
 
I feel that a sound processor is a good idea after the system is using the proper setup such as amp, sub, mids, and tweeters. To be honest, I think any good audio system should start with quality components from the outset; only then, the sound processor would sort of enhance or tweak the sound stage for much richer sound. Without getting the base setting correct, I think it would be more trouble than it's worth. Just my two cents.

My Mazda5 has all the items that came from the factory all pretty much been replaced; and it sounds awesome.

Speed3 w/ Bose system just crying to be ripped out and replaced with Focal speakers/tweeters/crossovers, better wiring, etc. Right now, it sounds way cheaper than what I used to have on my VW Beetle and Jetta. Horrible, I am really disappointed in why Mazda market this audio system as "high end" 10 speaker system that just put a cringe on my face each time I am listening to it while driving. You know that the system is pretty bad when you have to turn it off.
Were you able to connect the sound processor before the factory Bose amp, or did you have to tap into the speaker outputs after the amp? Ideally, I would like to install the sound processor before it hits the factory amp to get the cleanest signals for my aftermarket amps.
 
Last edited:
Back