ap and vta valves?

[leo766]

any input on if the cobb ap can solve the dangers of running a vta bpv? I have a turboxs hybrid valve, and wonder if there is any damage i am doing with this thing? I mean its specifically marketed as not throwing a CEL and it doesn't but I don't want to incur any additional wear on the engine...

i guess i am looking either for a reasurance that i've got nothing to worry about, or do i have to switch to a recirc, unless i go to some sort of MAP based engine intake measurement?

 

[Mistersix]

not sure of your mods or the map your using. however, with the ap or not the car will probably still run rich inbetween shifts and still backfire occasionally with dual ported or vta valve.
i ran my turbosmart in dual port when i first got it. sounds great but the car runs noticeably better fully recirculated.
you'd have to be able to cut fuel when the throttle closes and i'm not sure the ap does that. maybe with the ATR software it could be tuned out, but you may wanna leave that to a pro.

 

[SMOKEYS36SHOP]

leo i have the turboxs hybrid bov running with my cobb ap. idk what it was for me but those off the shelf maps didnt run well with my car and was just unhappy with the knock retard levels i was getting. (in the end i think it was just me being over paranoid) so i got one of those pro e-tunes from surgeline and told him all my mods and he made really great map for my car.

even before the pro tune while using the off the shelf maps with that blow off valve i never experienced backfiring or even throwing a cel so you should be fine. you should also posted your mods so we have a better understanding on what to expect when getting this cobb ap

 

[leo766]

CPE CAI intake and turbo inlet
turboxs hyrbid bov and race pipe
cobb ap stage 1 map

so far its been ok, hardly backfires at all... but its been zero degrees almost daily since i put the off the shelf tune on it.... runs great so far, but prolly under potential, debating what to get next, i have awr front endlinks and a whiteline sway in the mail

im worried what will happen with heat soak during summer times

 

[The Great NY]

main issue running anything VTA on the stock speed6 setup is that its a draw thru setup. if you covert to a blow thru maf setup you could run VTA no issues. just retune

 

[leo766]

blow through maf? how about just usin some jbweld and a peice of aluminum sheet metal to permanently seal the two ports on the turboxs valve? wont that make it exactly like the recirc only version of their valve?

cp-e even went as far as saying run the stock valve over the turboxs

my mods at this point are the same with the cp-e front mount waiting to be installed

i wish there was an ap map for a cp-e CAI intake and tip with a fmic

 

[batou079]

im surprised your hybrid BPV didnt come with VTA plugs.
i know the Turbosmart one does, comes with fitted plugs to run it in full recirc.

Id say find an option like that, i wouldnt try welding the ports permanently shut unless you plan on trashing the BPV/BOV one day and NOT reselling it.

 

[The Great NY]

im surprised your hybrid BPV didnt come with VTA plugs.
i know the Turbosmart one does, comes with fitted plugs to run it in full recirc.

Id say find an option like that, i wouldnt try welding the ports permanently shut unless you plan on trashing the BPV/BOV one day and NOT reselling it.

+1 I wouldn't go welding a perfectly good product. A hybrid BPV/BOV that recircs and vta is not fixing the fact that you lose metered air everytime it functions. All it does is try to decrease the effects that are negative that come with VTA while running draw thru. But yo it should still be one or the other....VTA on blow thru and recirc on draw thru...period

 

[leo766]

a little heads up

for 10$ more from turboxs u get the exact same valve as their recirc one with 2 holes milled in it so it vent 50/50... i know its bs... and i tried to exchange it like the next day after i bought it, but they wouldnt take it... i think its real stupid they charge extra for a product that damages ur car under the guise of a safe loud bov that wont throw a CEL(implying to the ignorant masses its a safe choice over) except its non adjustable, its basically two milled holes, i could of done the job with a drill press myself if i wanted to instead of paying 10$ bux for them to do it

i found someone local to buy it for 160$ so im gona try and sell it and find a full recirc... hey does anyone have an opinion on the synapse valve vs the hks? i know they require no adjustment, hks is sequential but synapse says is super responsive? does responsiveness do something for our cars? i though every valve i owned was responsive, otherwise id blow my TPlate into a taco shell