YOu can tell when you're boosting period! I don't need a boost gauge to tell me I'm boosting. How f'n hard is that to understand?????????
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Anyway to make the MS3 more economical?
- Thread starter IrishMidak
- Start date
YOu can tell when you're boosting period! I don't need a boost gauge to tell me I'm boosting. How f'n hard is that to understand?????????
actually your wrong. Getting a boost gauge would be smart no matter what. But i can not hit boost ever and rev all the way to 6500 rpms. It has to do with how you press the peddle, getting a boost gauge would help you learn how to tell how far you can press the gas before your turbo starts suckin fuel.
I agree with Ghost on this one. In addition, I think it's harder to tell when you're in boost with the stock airbox due to how quiet it is.
I agree with Ghost on this one. In addition, I think it's harder to tell when you're in boost with the stock airbox due to how quiet it is.
Okay then maybe it's just me but I can certainly without a doubt tell when I'm in boost. I've driven my friends MS3 with a boost gauge and my theory still holds true. Maybe I have super-human senses or something?
IrishMidak
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Can we get back on topic? Anyways, boost controller any help at all?
GhostMercury
Member
- :
- MazdaSpeed 3 08.5
no because to be economical you want to stay out of boost. so you would just be wasting money
Can we get back on topic? Anyways, boost controller any help at all?
No, because you can't lower boost further than stock.
Okay then maybe it's just me but I can certainly without a doubt tell when I'm in boost. I've driven my friends MS3 with a boost gauge and my theory still holds true. Maybe I have super-human senses or something?
I usually have to have my music off and listen for turbo spool before I can tell if I'm in boost or not when I'm NOT stomping on it. If you're slamming the pedal down to the floor, yeah, you'll be in boost before long. Not that I care too much when I am/am not in boost at this point. Ghost is just saying, it's not a horrible idea to get a boost gauge anyway. You can tell if you're boosting less than normal, which would lead you to believe something may be wrong with your car. Also, a little dial jumping around is an easier indication of when you're boosting then your ears. It's what, maybe $90 to get a boost gauge installed if you do it yourself? I think it's a worthwhile addition to the car period.
Boost starts picking up a lot at around 3000rpms so you shift at or right below 3000rpms.
This you were just plain wrong about. It depends on how hard you're stomping on the gas.
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Can we get back on topic? Anyways, boost controller any help at all?
I use cruise control a lot when I'm out on the highways. Keeps my itchy trigger "finger" off the gas and saves me money. Also, try to keep a lot of extra stuff out of your trunk.
IrishMidak
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Did that yesterday on a 122 mile drive. Boring as hell but I made it through alive.I use cruise control a lot when I'm out on the highways. Keeps my itchy trigger "finger" off the gas and saves me money. Also, try to keep a lot of extra stuff out of your trunk.
You don't have to train your car to do anything. The computer will do it for you. I have used lower octane gas, and could not see any detonation, of course, that doesn't mean it might not occur under the right circumstances. I tried it once and the savings in money were not worth potential damage. The compter will know what octane you are running and it will adjust timing accordingly. If you do this, you could be voiding your warranty, though. Depends on how long the computer sotres that type of information.
As far as shutting off the motor, unless it's a hella long light, you will actually use moar fuel to start it than you save by shutting it off. Instead, coast down more to a stop. If you travel the same roads all the time, you have a feeling of when the lights turn and how fast you have to go to catch the next one. Instead, travel at a steady resonable rate and coast down as far as you feel comfortable (and traffic will allow) to the red light.
When you are on the freeway, use cruise control, but if there is a prolonged uphill section, turn the cruise off and input only enought gas to lose a few mph until the top of the hill, then input more gas to regain your speed. Coasting helps because the computer knows when there is a sufficient lack of load, it can shut off fuel to your engine and just let it spin with the transmission.
As far as fat ppl are concerned, you can take extra weight out of your car. If you have a big sub box in the back, you are probably losing a few mpg due to the extra weight.
Finally, for the intake, I did see a slight gain in mpg when I installed my MS CAI. Any gains you get from this mod (whatever brand or type you use) is from a leaning of the a/f mixture from a larger than stock diameter at the maf sensor.
Did you do the trip meter hack? That can help a little, even though it's calculations are a little off.
As far as shutting off the motor, unless it's a hella long light, you will actually use moar fuel to start it than you save by shutting it off. Instead, coast down more to a stop. If you travel the same roads all the time, you have a feeling of when the lights turn and how fast you have to go to catch the next one. Instead, travel at a steady resonable rate and coast down as far as you feel comfortable (and traffic will allow) to the red light.
When you are on the freeway, use cruise control, but if there is a prolonged uphill section, turn the cruise off and input only enought gas to lose a few mph until the top of the hill, then input more gas to regain your speed. Coasting helps because the computer knows when there is a sufficient lack of load, it can shut off fuel to your engine and just let it spin with the transmission.
As far as fat ppl are concerned, you can take extra weight out of your car. If you have a big sub box in the back, you are probably losing a few mpg due to the extra weight.
Finally, for the intake, I did see a slight gain in mpg when I installed my MS CAI. Any gains you get from this mod (whatever brand or type you use) is from a leaning of the a/f mixture from a larger than stock diameter at the maf sensor.
Did you do the trip meter hack? That can help a little, even though it's calculations are a little off.
IrishMidak
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3 GT
You don't have to train your car to do anything. The computer will do it for you. I have used lower octane gas, and could not see any detonation, of course, that doesn't mean it might not occur under the right circumstances. I tried it once and the savings in money were not worth potential damage. The compter will know what octane you are running and it will adjust timing accordingly. If you do this, you could be voiding your warranty, though. Depends on how long the computer sotres that type of information.
As far as shutting off the motor, unless it's a hella long light, you will actually use moar fuel to start it than you save by shutting it off. Instead, coast down more to a stop. If you travel the same roads all the time, you have a feeling of when the lights turn and how fast you have to go to catch the next one. Instead, travel at a steady resonable rate and coast down as far as you feel comfortable (and traffic will allow) to the red light.
When you are on the freeway, use cruise control, but if there is a prolonged uphill section, turn the cruise off and input only enought gas to lose a few mph until the top of the hill, then input more gas to regain your speed. Coasting helps because the computer knows when there is a sufficient lack of load, it can shut off fuel to your engine and just let it spin with the transmission.
As far as fat ppl are concerned, you can take extra weight out of your car. If you have a big sub box in the back, you are probably losing a few mpg due to the extra weight.
Finally, for the intake, I did see a slight gain in mpg when I installed my MS CAI. Any gains you get from this mod (whatever brand or type you use) is from a leaning of the a/f mixture from a larger than stock diameter at the maf sensor.
Did you do the trip meter hack? That can help a little, even though it's calculations are a little off.
I have always coasted to lights that I know and even those I dont so no issues for me there. Also, I have the GT so no hack needed. I was actually watching the "Actual MPG" usage on my trip home last night and it was mid 30's for a good portion of it at 65. I have no issue with changing my driving habits to improve mileage but I was really hoping for something I can do with the car to improve it besides what I have already done.
serialtoon
Member
- :
- 2008 Mazdaspeed 3
I drove without mashing my pedal much my last tank and i got a lame 21.8 MPG....what the heck are you guys doing to achieve 28????
I drove without mashing my pedal much my last tank and i got a lame 21.8 MPG....what the heck are you guys doing to achieve 28????
+1
serialtoon
Member
- :
- 2008 Mazdaspeed 3
I think people dont know how to calculate their MPGs or that trip computer is lying on the GT peoples models. Just for reference....
1.Go to the gas station and fill up the fuel tank.
2. Record the mileage, before even pulling away from the pump. We will call this Mileage A.
3. Drive normally until the tank is less than half full.
4. Fill up the tank again (preferably at the same station using the same pump as pumps may be calibrated differently). This time, pay attention to how many gallons it takes to fill up the tank. This is usually shown at the pump.
5. Record the mileage again, just like before. We will call this Mileage B.
6. Subtract Mileage A from Mileage B. This will give you the number of miles you drove since your last fill-up.
7. Divide your answer by the number of gallons it took to fill up your tank. This will give you your car's MPG.
I usually have to have my music off and listen for turbo spool before I can tell if I'm in boost or not when I'm NOT stomping on it. If you're slamming the pedal down to the floor, yeah, you'll be in boost before long. Not that I care too much when I am/am not in boost at this point. Ghost is just saying, it's not a horrible idea to get a boost gauge anyway. You can tell if you're boosting less than normal, which would lead you to believe something may be wrong with your car. Also, a little dial jumping around is an easier indication of when you're boosting then your ears. It's what, maybe $90 to get a boost gauge installed if you do it yourself? I think it's a worthwhile addition to the car period.
This you were just plain wrong about. It depends on how hard you're stomping on the gas.
Yes I realize that the 3000rpm thing I mentioned isn't totally untrue. I was thinking for peak TQ or something, lol!
IrishMidak
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed 3 GT
I think people dont know how to calculate their MPGs or that trip computer is lying on the GT peoples models. Just for reference....
1.Go to the gas station and fill up the fuel tank.
2. Record the mileage, before even pulling away from the pump. We will call this Mileage A.
3. Drive normally until the tank is less than half full.
4. Fill up the tank again (preferably at the same station using the same pump as pumps may be calibrated differently). This time, pay attention to how many gallons it takes to fill up the tank. This is usually shown at the pump.
5. Record the mileage again, just like before. We will call this Mileage B.
6. Subtract Mileage A from Mileage B. This will give you the number of miles you drove since your last fill-up.
7. Divide your answer by the number of gallons it took to fill up your tank. This will give you your car's MPG.
I did that for the first year of having the car. I would usually be at 22-24, once getting 28. The worst was 14...ouch!
I noticed a slight increase in mpg with my new cobb intake. I've been trying to stay out of boost lately, sometimes I just don't see a point in flooring it unless it's for a reason. it seems like everytime I floor it I hear this noise in the background, kind of sounds like coins dropping on the ground.
The computer is inaccurate.
I have been seeing between 22.5 -24.0 mpg on my car. I have only 1800 miles so it should probably improve. This is mostly city driving although not full stop and go. The computer reports about 11-12% better than this. So if I calculate 24 the computer tells ~ 26.5.....
Ed.
I have been seeing between 22.5 -24.0 mpg on my car. I have only 1800 miles so it should probably improve. This is mostly city driving although not full stop and go. The computer reports about 11-12% better than this. So if I calculate 24 the computer tells ~ 26.5.....
Ed.
It's really easy, just try to mimic a modern automatic: get to the highest gear possible (without bogging) for the current speed and be light on the gas. That's it!
For me that's easier said than done though.
For me that's easier said than done though.
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