Anybody just disable VTCS?

PR5Matt

Member
What happens if I just disconnect and plug the vacuum source to this system so it is like the intake is under WOT conditions all the time?

BTW since the P5 engine is ULEV, I believe this definition of VTCS:

I got this info from the Protege FAQ

site...http://web2.iadfw.net/theman/protegefaq/



3rd generations:
There are none for the 1.6l (ZM) engine. 1.8l (FP) and 2.0l (FS) owners can swap
in the JDM FS-ZE's intake manifold to help improve top end performance. The
FS-ZE's intake manifold has some basic resonance tuning due to the addition of the
resonance chamber bolted on top of the runners (it is actually connected to the
plenum log chamber). Several modifications to the vacuum line routing will have to
be performed when installing the FS-ZE intake manifold to either of the US spec
engines. First, the FS-ZE's intake manifold does not have a fitting for the boost
sensor. Also, installing the intake manifold on a normal Proteg 2.0l (and 1.8l CA
spec) will mean the loss of the VTCS emissions control component. Installing the
intake manifold on a "48 state" 1.8l Proteg and a MP3 will not have this issue.
The intake manifold found on the stock 2.0l and 1.8l CA spec Proteg's have the
VTCS component designed to control cold start emissions to help achieve the ULEV
emissions standard. This same system also causes some minor restrictions and air
turbulence in the intake manifold runners. Changing out the intake manifold to one
that does not have VTCS will offer some minor performance improvement however
the vehicle will no longer be emissions legal. The intake manifold from the "48 state"
1.8l Proteg and the MP3 does not have VTCS. For semi-legal/legal emissions
effectiveness and to avoid the "Check Engine" light to come on, you will need the
JDM EGR pipe (FSN7-20-310A). The JDM fuel rail also does not have the fuel
line pulsation damper built in, unlike the US fuel rail. The fuel line pulsation damper
on the FS-ZE is actually located slightly upstream in the fuel line (inlet side) as an
external unit. Because of this, you will have to use aftermarket fuel lines for the
short section between the firewall and the fuel rail in order to use the pulsation
damper (BP4X-20-180).
 
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you can remove the system but leave the actuator hooked up so you don't throw a cel- that way the car puter thinks its still doing it right.
 
I haven't done it yet- gonna do a mild P&P at the same time, but you should feel a bit more pull out of it when the car is cold, and maybe a touch more when it's warmed up from what I understand. Oh, and what equinox reccomends is pulling the system out, then do a quick spot weld to cover up the hole going into the IM- and as I mentioned you wont throw a CEL if you leave the actuator on-
Search on VCTS and you should come up with a couple of really informative threads.
 
I was going to do the pull and plug later. Is the upper intake much of a b**** to get off? I haven't had time to look at it yet.
 
doesn't look too difficult, just being careful I think- if I get it done before you have a chance to, I'll post a how-to with pics, but I probably won't for awhile till it warms up here-no garage to work in
 
You can take out the VTCS if you want, but it means pulling the intake manifold (which takes a bit of time), drilling out the screws that hold the "butterfly" discs to the actuator rod, and then the rod will pull right out. Then simply buy a 1/8" NPT pipe plug & tap, drill and tap the end the rod came out of, and install the pipe plug in that hole. No VTCS.

There is no need to leave the actuator on there. The ECU will only be looking for the solenoid (passenger side solenoid) of the two that are sitting on the back of the intake manifold. So long as it is there, the ECU will be fine. Just disconnect the vacuum so that you do not have a vacuum leak due to the actuator not being there. Otherwise, you could probably just put a resistor on the line so that the ECU thinks the solenoid is there, but since you already have the solenoid, just use that.

Here is a link of this being worked out on a MP3 with a P5 ECU. (So, he had some more work to do, but it was successful!)

http://www.msprotege.com/vbb300/showthread.php?t=45929

Otherwise, just go ghetto and tie the actuator in place (zip strip), so it is always open. :D
 
PR5Matt said:
I was going to do the pull and plug later. Is the upper intake much of a b**** to get off? I haven't had time to look at it yet.
Well, to do it "right" it is a bit of work. You can't just pull out the VTCS, you need to drill out the screws and take of the "butterfly" discs. Which means metal shaving will be made, so you'll probably want to take the entire manifold out which means taking off the fuel rail, the throttle cable, the coolant lines, the vacuum lines, and so on. It is a project, but not hard, just time consuming. Make sure you pay attention to what goes where, but luckinly the 10 wire harnesses you disconnect are all different, so you'll shouldn't have any problems with that.
 
hmm, that VTCS paragraph looks strangely familiar...

is that from TheMan's FAQ???

and Little Beavis, did you also get that solenoid trick from Edwin?

if you guys have more questions, perhaps you guys can ask 'The Man' himself :D
 
If Edwin aka The Man did this, I was unaware. I have not checked out his FAQ (never really had a need to). So, I didn't plagarize it or steal it from him, but it is good to know that he said the same thing as he has a lot of knowledge about these cars.
 
And for future reference, don't cut and paste info from the FAQ. Link and summarize.

Edwin busted his ass writing all of that up...
 

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