I only have one other decent one.
wow! she's really cute.
Any photographers in here?
- Thread starter ChopstickHero
- Start date
wow! she's really cute.
I tried a little flash, but it was so bright out, that it completely blew out the background. I set up a reflector right below her pointing up towards her face.
As far as the noise reduction, I have a pretty detailed process but this was taken early last year when I was not doing as much. I think I just have a blanket noise ninja run on this one.....
As far as the noise reduction, I have a pretty detailed process but this was taken early last year when I was not doing as much. I think I just have a blanket noise ninja run on this one.....
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
i dunno if I posted this or not..i can't remember
I am doing my first wedding this summer. I would like some tips/tricks/ etc that would help me out. Anyone that can offer some information would be appreciated
I am doing my first wedding this summer. I would like some tips/tricks/ etc that would help me out. Anyone that can offer some information would be appreciated
How long have you been working in photography and what gear do you have? On top of a main and back up camera, 12-15g of memory cards, and lenses and flashes, little things also come in handy? Be sure to bring snacks and water for yourself while you're working. Also a small pack with things like bandaids, advil (or something like that) in case you (or the bridesmaids) get blisters. You'll be a godsend if you help them out with a blister half way through the day. Bring someone to help you also. Help posing, with lighting, hauling gear, etc.
How big is the wedding? If it's large enough, be sure to meet with the bride and groom ahead of time and have them appoint a representative for the wedding day. Have that person in charge of providing a list of all the people that you'll be photgraphing to you at least a week before the wedding. They'll also round up wedding party and family for their shots on the wedding day. Set a strict schedule and stand by it. Failure for anyone to show up or be late does not mean they'll still get their photos taken. It sounds harsh, but helps.
Hope that helps.
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Gear:
Canon XTi
18-55 EFS
10-22 EFS
75-300 USM IS
2 x 430EX flash
gary fong sphere
I've looked on the net and found a basic wedding contract that I'm going to taylor to myself.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=88423
And I've found a Wedding Photo list AKA - a checklist of the photos that should be taken during the wedding/formals/reception etc.
The good thing I guess is that they will already be married when I take the photos. Since they are getting married in a diff. country. When they come back, all I have to do for pics are formals, tea ceremony at the bride's house, and the reception. 200 attendees.
I guess the questions I have are geared more on the business side. Like..Does the bride get every single picture? Do they get the RAW files as well? How do I go about negotiating price? ETC
thanks!
Canon XTi
18-55 EFS
10-22 EFS
75-300 USM IS
2 x 430EX flash
gary fong sphere
I've looked on the net and found a basic wedding contract that I'm going to taylor to myself.
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=88423
And I've found a Wedding Photo list AKA - a checklist of the photos that should be taken during the wedding/formals/reception etc.
The good thing I guess is that they will already be married when I take the photos. Since they are getting married in a diff. country. When they come back, all I have to do for pics are formals, tea ceremony at the bride's house, and the reception. 200 attendees.
I guess the questions I have are geared more on the business side. Like..Does the bride get every single picture? Do they get the RAW files as well? How do I go about negotiating price? ETC
thanks!
LazerBlueP5
Member
- :
- 2012 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe // 6spd
I've done about a half a dozen paid shoots including weddings, portraits, and social events. I don't know if that qualifies me as "professional" though. I am, however a professional videographer.
My Photos:
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Weddings
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Sports
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Misc
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Social
My Video:
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/weddingtrailer.mov
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/MaryandJamesTrailer.mov
My Photos:
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Weddings
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Sports
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Misc
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/Social
My Video:
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/weddingtrailer.mov
http://www.gmelliottvideo.com/MaryandJamesTrailer.mov
If you don't have them by the time the ceremony rolls around, you'll want better lenses. L quality at a minimum. Also look at renting a backup camera or main camera and use your XTi as a backup. The XTi's not bad, but for something that big, you'll want a higher quality camera and something that does better in low light situations.
As far as the bride getting every single picture, that's up to you. If you do decide to give them the all of the images, make sure that it's either proof sizes, or if on a CD, that it's after they order their set of prints. Charge according to what you're worth. That's a personal preference. Look at what others are charging in the area, base it on your experience, and come up with a $ figure.
I agree all of those lenses will be pretty much useless for a wedding but you dont need L quality you need something with better aperture's the canon 50 1.4, 85 1.8 etc will easily do the job. However if it was me doing it I would be going with the 24-70L & 85L
and I agree I would not use the XTI either, get a 20,30,40D at a minimum or even better the 5D
and I agree I would not use the XTI either, get a 20,30,40D at a minimum or even better the 5D
The contract you referenced goes over those questions, as well. It explains that the customer will get low resolution proofs on CD-ROM. Once images are selected for printing (as part of their package) they will receive a CD-ROM with the images suitable for viewing online with the prints. If the customer wants a digital negative, that is, a high resolution image ready for printing, then they can purchase individual images for a price. That definitely does not include RAW files since by definition they are not ready for printing...kind of like undeveloped film.
I think that contract is a good one to use especially since it appears to be comprehensive and cover ALL potential circumstances. I would evaluate some of the items it makes policy like having a guide.
As for your gear...unless you're turning pro full time, L-lenses are "nice-to-haves" not "need-to-have" items.
I disagree with this one. For shooting a wedding, it would be a must in my mind. Are there paces nearby that will rent gear?
I'd also add that for the posed photos outside or even inside, these would work, but for the tea party and walking around, they might be difficult to use without some kind of zoom.
Also a light meter would come in really handy. If you can, take a look at the place ahead of time and take some test shots at the same time of the wedding to get a feel for lighting conditions. If you don't have a white/grey card, pick up one of those also.
Last edited:
ZoominMX-5
Member
- :
- Ex protege owner... Now 93 Civic of Doom
FlyinHawaiian
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege #1460
Took this the other evening... its being screened to be published on Airliners.net right now... first real pic with the new camera. I can't decide if I over exposed it in the upper right corner in PS, but feedback is always nice.
-Jeff
LazerBlueP5
Member
- :
- 2012 Cadillac CTS-V Coupe // 6spd
The MMA ringside shoot was with a 1DmkII and a 24-70 2.8L. The rest was with the same lens but a 5D body. I really want to get a 70-200 2.8 IS L.
I can't decide if I over exposed it in the upper right corner in PS, but feedback is always nice.
Exposure is a matter of taste, style, and composition. While the sunset makes for a nice background, I'm not sure the sky is the subject of the image. I would actually argue that, on the whole, the image is a bit underexposed. Reason for this is that I think details in the plane are lost. If this were atypical landscape scene you might be able to get the sky and ground properly exposed by using a graduated ND filter. Since the tail of the plane makes the overall shape of the "ground" irregular, then you're only real option is to use PS to bring together two separate exposures, one for the sky and one for the ground.
You can also do this using a RAW image which has been converted two different times: once for the sky and once for the ground. Depending on the camera and exposure you may not be able to recover all the highlights in the sky. Along the same line, you may introduce noise in the newly lightened area on the ground.
So back to this specific picture. It appears that your camera's AWB has selected a bright part of the white plane to calibrate against. Since the brightest part of the plane is directly illuminated by the setting sun the result is a relatively cool AWB setting. This makes areas of shadow look blue. Since most of the plane is in shadow I would prefer to see the AWB set to the SHADE setting so that the majority of the plane appears true to life white. This will have the added benefit of greatly warming the sky to emphasize the sunset. Again, you can easily alter WB using a RAW image.
Finally, the general composition is pleasant given the relative absence of ground clutter, but the wings are clearly clipped which makes the image "feel" artificially confined. I might prefer to see a bit wider shot which includes the wing tips.
FlyinHawaiian
Member
- :
- Mazdaspeed Protege #1460
Wow... that is probably the best, most specific feedback I've ever received.. Thank you. I don't feel confident in my photography or photoshop abilities yet to shoot in RAW, but the WB information is excellent, which I will keep in mind for the next time I shoot in a darker / dusk outdoor setting without a flash. On a side note, what will give me better clarity in these situations: Low F-stop, fast shutter speed, higher ISO; or higher f-stop, slower speed, lower ISO?
Thanks again,
Jeff
Typically, the best image quality will come with the lowest ISO that keeps your shutter speed at or below 1 second. If your camera has long-exposure noise reduction then I recommend using that for exposures greater then 1 second, although this is limited since it primarily targets hot pixels, versus overall noise.
Personally, and if I have a tripod, I always shoot lowest ISO, Aperture priority at f/5.6 to f/8. This generally gives you enough DoF and clarity in you lens to make out detail. Any hot pixels I can remove manually in PS. I'm not really concerned with noise increasing to unbarable levels at exposures greater then 1 second on my Nikon D50.
FunkyBuddha
Tuned by Slick Nick
- :
- 2003 Spicy Orange MSP
Well the 24-70L is in the works. I actually want that lens as a walkaround lens for my XTi.
And the camera should do fine. I haven't had any problems with it in low light. I use the camera for event shots at night clubs and such. The pics turn out pretty good. And the "events" portion is at a restaurant..I doubt it will be as dark as this.
NYE:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2085/2155782173_18548633a1_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2058/2156571348_334d46ef68_b.jpg
with fong sphere
flash
10-22
iso 400
1/8 SS
f5.6
