Another BOV thread :(

[ms6_nate]

before u flame, I just bought my 6 and am just beginning to develop a plan for this car, and I have read and still am confused...looking for some clarity

I see alot of people with VTA BOV issues, and im curious, if this because they are keeping the MAF before the BOV? If i move my MAF to a location just before the throttle body, and convert my reserc to VTA, keeping it in the stock location, will this not work just fine like most other turbo cars? This only a temp set up, as I plan on doing a stand alone and turbo conversion after I read more, but I am like a 12 year old kid and want the cool noise LOL.

Also, I am looking into doing the TMIC upgrade, wondering if their is any kind of larger induction points for the hood to feed it intercooler. As in.... bigger intake ducts in the grill, increasing more airflow to the TMIC.

Lastly, I know this isnt the right thread location, but to save from making two threads, I have a turbo timer to insatll, but im working how this works with the proxy key, if I shut car off to turbo timer, and walk away with key in pocket, will the car cut out anyways?

Nate

 

[zinger002]

If your get an all stainless intake and turbo elbow you will hear bov sounds with it in recirc mode. the stock parts muffle sound a ton and restrict flow very well.

don't add a turbo timer. pretty useless on an oil and water cooled turbo, like the stock unit.
if you really need the turbo timer, take your foot off the gas about 35 seconds before your destination and let the car idle for another 35seconds once you park.

im running a fully vta'd turbosmart dual port, i bumped my idle to 870 and i don't get any weird issues at idle like some experience. i might also be seeing somewhat disguised effects due to also running a front mount intercooler with the maf in the stock location. buttfuckit.

a stand alone as far as i know does not exist for this car. you options are cobb accessport, "something" Xcede (not sure if its still around), the cpe standback, or running versatune. he ap and versatune (+tactrix cable) come out to about 400-600 mark used or new.

my answers are way the s*** out of order i know but they are still answers... on a blow through maf setup like your proposing, your going to want at least 5" of straight piping before and after the maf sensor so that flow has time to stabilize and not give incorrect readings. with the stock turbo it is also a concern that any oil or grime can build up on the maf sensor and cause an incorrect reading.

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

Turbo timers are only really "required" for an oil cooled turbo, as they run probably 800-1000 degrees hotter at sustained full throttle than a water cooled turbo thats in your car. Even still, you wouldn't even have to idle for 30 seconds, as long as you're in low rpm out of boost before shutting car off your fine.

Who drives full boost WOT into their driveway and immediately shuts their car off? Wait, you did that yesterday lol.

 

[ms6_nate]

Who drives full boost WOT into their driveway and immediately shuts their car off? Wait, you did that yesterday lol.

You are now in my sig haha

 

[ms6_nate]

So again... still looking for input on the concept of putting the MAF after the BPV.... has anyone done this? Could I not run a VTA without issue?

 

[KrGsMrNKusinagi]

I recommend recirc even though I ran VTA.. I would not run vta unless it was an HKS SQV bov though.

 

[ms6_nate]

So i decided to go with the Turbo XS Hybrid Type-H BPV/BOV instead. I like the sound and its a 50/50 reserc VTA, so I guess i win on both sides LOL. Now one more question. Where I just ordered the Corksport Stage 2 SRI + TI, and a 3" DP, how much of a diff is this gonna amke for my air fuels and what not without having my Cobb AP yet? Is this going to learn out bad enough I shoudl wait until I ahve the AP before installing of should it be fine?

 

[ms6_nate]

? Anyone

 

[m4tic]

All of your problems solved

 

[ms6_nate]

All of your problems solved

Theres always someone who cant just answer a post.

Anyways, I had previously read many "opinions" as to weather or not the AP or some form of engine management should be used once a DP and TI are installed, but still yet to see any factual information like I am looking for. No one I have found yet has been able to say what their AFR was prior to installing engine management. What I am wondering is weather or not running the SRI, TI and DP without engine management would run the car very lean, or is mazda has tuned these cars quiet rich from stock and it would be okay. I decided to go with the "**** it" approach, and ordered the Cobb AP anyways, and am awaiting its arrival now, but I am simply curious still.

Also, FYI, I did much reading for the independant fog light trick on here and tried a DIY as I wanted fully independant fogs, yet no one has come up with a DIY or solution that didnt require at least 2 clicks forward on the head light controls, as well, have the FL turn off with your high beams due to the DRL module and the auto off feature. Well, myself and MSP2003.5_Nick tackled a DIY one day, and have come up with a solution and I now have fully independant fog lights, with only one click ahead and they do not turn off with the high beams Just thought I'd let ya know, anyone interested PM and I can explain.

Nate

 

[MSP2003.5_Nick]

That one click with the ignition, so accessory powers fog lights and still have control of them with the switch. It's really not that complex. You can pick anything you want to power them either on the headlight stock or ignition switch. Doesn't matter, could power them with your horn so when you beep your fogs blink

 

[ms6_nate]

could power them with your horn so when you beep your fogs blink

OMG! What are you doing tomorrow night!? LOL JK