Annoying noise

Hey Guys,

Just got my Goldlines on and have the clunk/rattle in the right rear too. The original strut washers are sitting like cups (not upside down) and extra washers have been added to both the left and right rear struts (the nut is right to the top of the strut bolt).

It doesn't occur on all bumps ..seems to happen mainly while driving over seams/splits in the road. It's a very light rattle but is pretty annoying.

Any other ideas? I haven't checked the rubber boot below the perch yet.

Thanks,

Jon
2000 Mazda Protege 1.8L
 
Did the washer trick work for you?

I replaced my rear right strut with a newer one and it's quiet now (I also have the washers on there too).

The car is bouncier than stock because it's so low on the stock struts ..time for tokico's.

jon
 
yeah the washer trick worked for me, but now I hear other noises that were prolly there b4, but the rattling strut was overpowering them (lol2)
 
damnit... i just installed my tociko hps and eibachs and now im getting it too!!!... drove around with a friend in the trunk of the p5 and saw a little play by the top bolt although it's fully tightened. he recommended a washer or 2 just like what joe pr5 recommended. so i think that would solve the issue. i really hope that works coz im getting tired of this install. first the endlinks now this... arghhh.... well i love how it rides tho so it's worth it. i should've did a search on this before hand.
 
so things to remember are:

-2 washers on each corner
-the "bowl" shaped washer has to be placed on top of strut like a bowl.
 
I just spent the last 30 min reading this thread...thanks for the posts everyone. I will be trying the washer theory as soon as I get a chance. One question to all of you though:

How the hell do you get the strut nut off and on so easy? The vice grip method is a definate no no but I have tried it before and haven't been able to get a good grip on the shaft. Do you all have impact wrenches in your garage or something?
 
I have a breaker bar and it has worked fine... I use a torgue wrench to re-tighten to specs... It takes me like 5 minutes to do the rears now.
 
garretts77 said:
I have a breaker bar and it has worked fine... I use a torgue wrench to re-tighten to specs... It takes me like 5 minutes to do the rears now.
How do you keep the strut shaft from turning when tightening the bolt. I have installed 4 suspensions so far and without air tools I don't see how it is possable. As soon as you turn the nut the shaft spins.(hand)
 
What cupped washer? The one that goes directly beneath the strut nut? If so, it spins independently of the strut shaft.
 
andyfatsax said:
What cupped washer? The one that goes directly beneath the strut nut? If so, it spins independently of the strut shaft.
It shouldn't. It is keyed to not spin on the shaft. Gotta be careful with air power though. Illuminas will break if you use air on the upper nut.
 
I had a similar issue with my GC's and that was fixed similar to the washer trick. After that I heard more noises and it turned out to be my exhaust taping the suspension arm that goes from the middle of the car to the wheel. Maybe this is happening to those who did not have luck with the washer trick. Leave to car on the ground and look under it from the back and have someone jump in the trunk to see if it hits.
 
Hmnnn, I'll have to look into this. I wish I never read this thread because now I want to rip my trunk apart to fix the Knock!!!
 
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