amsoil
- Thread starter oldpunk
- Start date
Depends how much a year you drive, but you should change it at least once a year.
I appears that modern oils can last 5-10k miles. Check other sites for recommendations - a well known one is http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/. The only way to know for sure is getting your oil tested. In my opinion doing it every 5000 km (3100 miles) is a waste of oil for most situations. Many people use amsoil with good results, however, they are expensive and are not API certified (a lot of debate on this - see website discussions). Synthetics last longer than dino oil. I'm cheap, so I use dino oil and change it about 4-6k miles (With 4 cars to maintain, I lose track sometimes). I'll tell you in 20 years if it works well.Annual oil changes are not a good idea - unless you've got data that says your oil is good that long. It may be possible, but there's a lot more variables than just the oil itself, and IMO would be dangerous to just not change your oil for a year/15k miles without knowledge of that interval being OK for your particular vehicle, environment, and habits.
Modern oil and engines are much better than back in the day when the 3month/3000mi rule of thumb was invented. Pretty much the only people still pushing the 3k interval these days are oil change places like Jiffy Lube.
Bobistheoilguy is a good resource, as mentioned.
Some vehicles have actual sensors that monitor oil status (pH basically) and use that to determine when to turn on the oil change reminder. I'm pretty sure the 5 doesn't.
If you want to extend your oil change intervals, and know what's going on inside your engine, I recommend an oil analysis service like Blackstone Labs. You take a sample of the oil that you drain during your change and send it to them, they analyze it (about $17 postage included, IIRC) and tell you the status of your oil. The report includes any wear metals present, presence of coolant, pH/remaining detergent levels, etc., plus an estimate on how much "life" is left in the oil. So you can start with 5k mile intervals, and increase that number when Blackstone tells you that the oil you just sent in was only 60% "used" for example.
My wife's 4runner went 8k miles on its last change, and will be going 9k miles this change. Some of my older BMW with high mileage need 5k mile intervals, so I stick to that on those cars. FWIW, I just did my first change in my 5 (at 5k miles) and will of course be sending in a sample to Blackstone to start the data collection for the mz5.
Modern oil and engines are much better than back in the day when the 3month/3000mi rule of thumb was invented. Pretty much the only people still pushing the 3k interval these days are oil change places like Jiffy Lube.
Bobistheoilguy is a good resource, as mentioned.
Some vehicles have actual sensors that monitor oil status (pH basically) and use that to determine when to turn on the oil change reminder. I'm pretty sure the 5 doesn't.
If you want to extend your oil change intervals, and know what's going on inside your engine, I recommend an oil analysis service like Blackstone Labs. You take a sample of the oil that you drain during your change and send it to them, they analyze it (about $17 postage included, IIRC) and tell you the status of your oil. The report includes any wear metals present, presence of coolant, pH/remaining detergent levels, etc., plus an estimate on how much "life" is left in the oil. So you can start with 5k mile intervals, and increase that number when Blackstone tells you that the oil you just sent in was only 60% "used" for example.
My wife's 4runner went 8k miles on its last change, and will be going 9k miles this change. Some of my older BMW with high mileage need 5k mile intervals, so I stick to that on those cars. FWIW, I just did my first change in my 5 (at 5k miles) and will of course be sending in a sample to Blackstone to start the data collection for the mz5.
^ if you believe THAT you're a fool.
Are you under warranty? If you are, it doesn't matter since you need to continue the factory recommendations to keep the warranty.
If not, and you're willing to do used oil analyses, then go for it. 15k miles is chump change for a high end oil, and more importantly, a high end oil filter, changed every 7,500. After 15k miles you really need to do UOA's to gauge how it's doing. (If you plan on it, you need to do them the whole time, not just at the end. They need to have a base to refer to)
I've subscribed to the annual oil change for years now with no ill effects. I do 7500 miles on the 5 due to the warranty, but I also don't spend a ton on the oil either.
as mentioned, bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of info.
I don't use amsoil as I'm not willing to spend that much money on oil. There is a lot of really good oil out there for decent prices now a days. In my Mustang I change the oil once a year just due to lack of use and condensation build up. (The cars sees less than 1k miles/year lately)
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That raises an interesting hypothetical question:
If you ran longer oil change intervals, but had hard data in the form of UOA for each change showing that everything was good, do you think Mazda would play hardball and deny an engine warranty claim for some freak engine failure that could potentially be oil related, but could just as easily be manufacturer defect (say a bad bearing)? If they did deny it, would you have a legitimate case if you wanted to challenge it it court?
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markuszoom5
Member
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- Mazda 5 Sport
My wife's 2007 civic has an oil change indicator. Sometimes it comes on quick and sometimes really slow. I can remember 12 months and also 6 month intervals. The car was bough brand new and is 7 years old, without any problems. Sometimes I would do oil change and sometimes dealer, depending on timing. So I guess if you don't to change oil and take a risk let us now how it works out. My Mazda 5 I do every 5 k miles. I heard a story about a lady not changing her oil on a beetle like 10 years or something and it ran fine. So we dont really know how long oil can last in an engine. Who knows ...
Mazda? Not so sure.. Ford/GM/Dodge, they'd deny deny deny. I'm guessing they'd still deny and risk it, rather than set a precedent. After all, you probably have no way to prove for certain that the oil being sampled was really from what you said it was.. I don't think that'd hold up in court?
Interesting side point: I used to handle product sourcing (i sold them s***) for Chevron Labs, where they designed/tested many of their products. More than a few of their guys swore up and down that they NEVER changed their oil, only the filter and a top off. I couldn't quite buy into that.
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I also think Mazda would probably deny based on the fact that you didn't follow the prescribed intervals, regardless of what data you had. I do wonder if it would hold up in court if someone really wanted to make a case of it.
FWIW, I don't think the logic that they would use to deny the claim would be that they couldn't authenticate the UOA. Remember that you don't have to have your regularly scheduled maintenance done at the dealer to maintain your warranty - that is a law. You can do everything yourself, and as long as you stick to the schedule (keeping written records helps too) the manufacturer can't void a warranty just for not having it done at the dealer. I think the burden of proof would definitely be on Mazda to prove that you did something deceptive like swap UOA results, not on you to prove that you didn't. Again, keeping records is a big deal, written records go a long way if you ever find yourself in court (for anything).
FWIW, I don't think the logic that they would use to deny the claim would be that they couldn't authenticate the UOA. Remember that you don't have to have your regularly scheduled maintenance done at the dealer to maintain your warranty - that is a law. You can do everything yourself, and as long as you stick to the schedule (keeping written records helps too) the manufacturer can't void a warranty just for not having it done at the dealer. I think the burden of proof would definitely be on Mazda to prove that you did something deceptive like swap UOA results, not on you to prove that you didn't. Again, keeping records is a big deal, written records go a long way if you ever find yourself in court (for anything).
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phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
- :
- DFW TX
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- No mo MZ5 want MX5
All depends on how you drive your car... if you're worried, do like the other guys have said and send your oil in to Blackstone Labs or somewhere else to be analyzed after an oil change. I know I sure as hell don't change my oil every 3k miles.
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- 2009 Mazda 5 Touring & 2012 MS3
i change anywhere between 7500 - 10000 on the van. On the turbo, at about 5000-7500. It all depends on my free time, which is why i note the range. While i don't have to, i swap the filter each time as well. I've used Amsoil for over a decade and used to be a UOA nut. It always came back well and like sac mentioned, you push your oil interval 1,000 miles each time until the breaking point (either bad UOA or your nerves) and keep that interval.
I'm an Amsoil dealer. If you do want to use Amsoil, i recommend becoming a "Preferred Member". You will get dealer costs for a low yearly fee. I opted to become a dealer when i was deep into modding and riding the track but plan to go preferred when renewal time comes. It pays for itself since I have two cars and two bikes and drive each a lot. Buying by the case at cost and storing them in the garage saves ton$.
I'm an Amsoil dealer. If you do want to use Amsoil, i recommend becoming a "Preferred Member". You will get dealer costs for a low yearly fee. I opted to become a dealer when i was deep into modding and riding the track but plan to go preferred when renewal time comes. It pays for itself since I have two cars and two bikes and drive each a lot. Buying by the case at cost and storing them in the garage saves ton$.
I use it and became a dealer after it held up to all that it claimed.
Here's the deal, if you follow the directions, AMSOIL covers repairs and supersedes the mfr warranty. So if your engine blows up and the oil is found to not have held up, they pay. If it's found to be full of coolant and failed, well the mfr pays, but they must prove the Amsoil was at fault for it to be Amsoil's fault. If it blows because you didn't top it off? Well that's just neglect.
I have never had an issue in the 4 cars I've used it in. 300m (not c), mazda6, mazdaspeed miata, and now the mazda3. 15k mile changes or 1 year, whichever comes first. Top off if needed, usually you'll see oil consumption when changing brands or during the first change since it's cleaning junk out and dirty oil burns more easily than clean oil.
Also don't neglect your air filter as air is by far the dirtiest thing your car uses. An AEM dry or AFE dry will work much better. Sadly Amsoil doesn't make one for our car but it's the same principle- filter smaller stuff on the surface of the filter for easy cleaning.
If you're worried about the oil filter, change to a spin-on and run an Amsoil filter good for 15k miles. EA15K51-ea
Here's the deal, if you follow the directions, AMSOIL covers repairs and supersedes the mfr warranty. So if your engine blows up and the oil is found to not have held up, they pay. If it's found to be full of coolant and failed, well the mfr pays, but they must prove the Amsoil was at fault for it to be Amsoil's fault. If it blows because you didn't top it off? Well that's just neglect.
I have never had an issue in the 4 cars I've used it in. 300m (not c), mazda6, mazdaspeed miata, and now the mazda3. 15k mile changes or 1 year, whichever comes first. Top off if needed, usually you'll see oil consumption when changing brands or during the first change since it's cleaning junk out and dirty oil burns more easily than clean oil.
Also don't neglect your air filter as air is by far the dirtiest thing your car uses. An AEM dry or AFE dry will work much better. Sadly Amsoil doesn't make one for our car but it's the same principle- filter smaller stuff on the surface of the filter for easy cleaning.
If you're worried about the oil filter, change to a spin-on and run an Amsoil filter good for 15k miles. EA15K51-ea
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Oh and here's the link to the AMSOIL Warranty
so there's no doubt.
so there's no doubt.
phunky.buddha
Booga Booga?
- :
- DFW TX
- :
- No mo MZ5 want MX5
What's the preferred member fee?
$20 a year, gets you wholesale pricing (dealer cost) and allows warehouse pickup if you're located near one.
Think costco style.
Linky here: Amsoil Preferred Customer Membership
You can do a 6-month once, they call it a 'trial.'
Think costco style.
Linky here: Amsoil Preferred Customer Membership
You can do a 6-month once, they call it a 'trial.'
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Never personally used Amsoil motor oil but have read greats reviews and that it is as good as advertised. That said, I dont plan to use their MO b/c its too much for my blood or my DD driving needs. If I have a track toy -absolutely. However, I do use their ATF/MTF and other gear oils .
My .02 on being a Preferred Member. It is worth it if there is a local warehouse near you to conveniently pick-up (shipping sucks) or if you are an ardent user of their products. Its a business model to encourage/promote use. FWIW, I came across a seasoned member on BITOG that offered (not sure if he still does) to add folks to being a PM for free. I use a Jobber (their lingo for dealer) that offers a very good priced -shipped- that is comparable to paying the $20 for the membership. Since I dont use so much of their product frequently enough (at my rate gear oils get changed every 2-3 years so a few months or 1 year member is pointless), it does not make it worthwhile for me. YMMV.
They offer a $10 Preferred member trial period and save ~25% (29% in the example given). Good deal! http://www.syntheticsusa.com/jmsoil/trial-offer/
. My .02 on being a Preferred Member. It is worth it if there is a local warehouse near you to conveniently pick-up (shipping sucks) or if you are an ardent user of their products. Its a business model to encourage/promote use. FWIW, I came across a seasoned member on BITOG that offered (not sure if he still does) to add folks to being a PM for free. I use a Jobber (their lingo for dealer) that offers a very good priced -shipped- that is comparable to paying the $20 for the membership. Since I dont use so much of their product frequently enough (at my rate gear oils get changed every 2-3 years so a few months or 1 year member is pointless), it does not make it worthwhile for me. YMMV.
They offer a $10 Preferred member trial period and save ~25% (29% in the example given). Good deal! http://www.syntheticsusa.com/jmsoil/trial-offer/
Just a note: This is WAY against AMSOIL marketing policy. Generally though if you're going to buy a case of oil it "pays" for the membership (ie saves you as much) in the first purchase so that it makes sense for some, not for others. And doing the math with introductory (6-month membership) pricing is just fuzzy numbers.
And Silent, do the math on their 15k oils and filters, generally they're cheaper per mile to run (especially at PC prices) thus saving in the long haul. DIY vs labor cost plays a role as well since time is not free!
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
Keywords above do not appeal to me. I took the time/effort to convert the cartridge filter base to accept canister and added the fumoto valve so I that can do frequent and cheap oil changes - <10 mins (begin to end) and no tools (unless except ramps, drain hose, and dump bottle)
. I also don’t like to stock up inventory (shipping cost) and am also a really big fan of Ford Motorcraft oils for DD use. If someone were to desire long OCIs, I completely agree Amsoil is the way to go!
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- 2009 Mazda 5 Touring & 2012 MS3
....However, I do use their ATF/MTF and other gear oils
...FWIW, I came across a seasoned member on BITOG that offered (not sure if he still does) to add folks to being a PM for free.
Their gear oils are magical. I've cured gear whine with their top tier stuff.
I used to do that. My track buddies would buy a case (or 3) and i'd throw in a PM for free. I thought is was a nice incentive. Didn't know it was against their rules
