amp questions.

chuyler1 said:
All cars have computer circuits...

True enough, but we seem to be blessed with an inordinately large number of them, controlling things that you would never think needed a computer to control them.

I'm with you on the rest of the rant.
 
I agree with the goldwing2000's sentiment about there being cpu circuits controlling who knows what. Kinda reminds me of the older civic (late ninety's) where you had to keep the stock head unit in the dash to retain door locks or domelamp or something. You had to intall a Y adapter for some of the wires to route power to the stock and aftermarket HU and then stuff the stock HU behind the heater control area to make room for the new HU.

However, in the 3, there is nothing about the factory deck that controls anything else other than audio. As long as you're careful about where you drill holes and run wires (and don't yank/stretch/stress other wires when you run the new wiring), you'll be fine. Stick to the "accepted" methods of stereo installs and there will be no problems. Once you start adding things like remote starters/alarms/window roll modules/etc do things get more involved because you start tapping into things CPU controlled.

BTW: Speaking from experience, basic alarms with door locks, door/trunk triggers, and flashing parking lights are easily installed in the 3.
 
my only concerns are the line out converter and drilling a hole in my firewall. if anyone could point me to a place or if someone could show me where they drilled their hole i'd do the install myself. the line out i'm pretty sure wouldn't be too hard but the part about drilling a hole in my firewall sucks. also if anyone could point me to what line out convertor and amp kit i should pick up that would help out alot too. sorry to keep bothering you guys but i want to do it right this time around. thanks again for the help.
 
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Yup, that's it. Search the forum for pictures of where people have gone through the firewall. There are rubber grommets that you can drill an extra hole into. I don't have a Mazda3, otherwise I'd take a picture and show you.
 
ok seems that i can run an 8-gauge power wire through the hole where my hood latch goes. so no drilling needed. another question. does it matter if i hook up the loc to the rear left or rear right? also will any standard 8 gauge amp kit work?
 
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The LOC should have two channels (4 wires). Hook it up to both rear channels. On the 5-door, its easiest to pull out the head unit and tap into the wires behind it.
 
Another place you can run a wire through is the soft foam seal by the A/C evaporator. No drilling required, just push it around the side of the seal! The foam is soft enough to completely seal around it.
 
Another place to run wire, although it requires drilling, is behind the glove box. Once the glovebox is out (pretty easy to do) there is a pretty big open space to drill. Just make sure you know where you are drilling and use a grommett.
 
thats a crazy price. considering all they are doing is running the wires and the loc. it shouldn't cost 175.
 
wonder what they mean by "built in tunr on lead" with thier rcas? also i have heard from others on this board that the knuconceptz rca's suck but their power wire is good stuff....
 
tsunami said:
wonder what they mean by "built in tunr on lead" with thier rcas? also i have heard from others on this board that the knuconceptz rca's suck but their power wire is good stuff....
well the rca's are normally stuck together (the two wires) the knuckoconceptz ones are stuck together the same but the remote wire is inbetween them.. yeah that gives you noise.. power running through the middle of rca's aint good. i had these wires the power wire is absolutly great, looks good too, but the rca's suck.. your better off with the ones they sell at walmart..
(rca)(remote)(rca) ||| thats how it is..
 
It sends such low current that it shouldn't be a problem. You can always run a separate wire if it is. In many cases, amps have auto-sensing turn on so the remote wire isn't even necessary.
 
chuyler1 said:
It sends such low current that it shouldn't be a problem. You can always run a separate wire if it is. In many cases, amps have auto-sensing turn on so the remote wire isn't even necessary.


I agree with chuyler1, the majority of the noise from the power line comes from the high current draw of the battery wire. Any decent after market deck will have internal power filters so the remote output is cleaner than regular battery connections. Just keep your RCA's at least 6" away from any power cable, and if they do get close, make sure they intersect at a 90degree angle rather than running parallel to each other. If you still get noise on the remote, a small 10uF capacitor (about $1 from radio Shack) will help reduce the noise.
 

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