Amp and Sub Installed - Pix Included

hagow_boy

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:
2007 Mazda 5 GT, Auto
Part 1 of 2 Projects for my Mazda 5

Part 1 :
10" Phoenix Gold Subwoofer
Basswork Sub Box - NonPorted
Phoenix Gold R4.0:2 2 Channel Amp running at 400 Watts

The box fits perfectly in between the 3rd row seats up and the tailgate door.
Anyone who is thinking of getting a sub may only need 8". This 10" is overpowering as it is and shakes and rattles my rear license plate as well as some other parts when my sunroof is open. The amp has a built in crossover and you can configure and turn down the bass but overall it is still overpowering.
If the sub is set too sensitive, songs from SnoopDogg and other high-bass music will cause the tailgate windshield wiper to bouce off the glass with each bass hit.

I wanted the form factor to be as small as possible and didn't want to lose my 3rd row seating in case I needed it. The amp can't go under the front seat because it is vented under there. It can't go under the 3rd row seats because when you fold the 3rd row down, the seat actually sinks to the floor and would have crushed the amp. So I had the hidden tray in the 2nd row seat driver side removed and had the amp placed there. I had about 3 feet extra speaker wire installed so that I can shift the sub box around, even up to the 2nd row seat in case I need the 3rd row folded down for cargo space. Speaker wires to sub-box is banana plugs so I can unplug them in a few seconds to remove the whole box in case I need all of the transport space.
Whole set up cost $700 Cdn. for sub, box, amp, wiring kit, line out converter, cables, and labour. Also installed the varad scanner to my rear view mirror included in the price above. Everything is well hidden with the cargo cover. Can adjust the positioning by folding down one 3rd row seat and shifting the sub box 90 degrees.


Part 2 : Coming in a few months. Planning to install Pioneer Avic-D3 just like mazdadude originally did.
 

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A few more pix

A few more pix of the amp, sub and scanner install.
 

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dommo_g said:
No ventilation for your amp.

I hope there won't be any over-heating problems. There is a fan on this amp and there is also an auto-shut off on the amp if the temp goes above 90C. The installers said there should be enough ventilation down there. It is not totally enclosed as the hidden tray has been removed the amp is just located behind the bar that allows you to slide the 2nd row seat forward. When the seat is down, I don't think the cushion touches the top surface of the amp. I'll do a follow-up posting in a few months to let everyone know if the amp survives the summer heat while it is on.

I asked the store if the amp is covered under warranty if it over-heats and they said yes. The amp was wasn't expensive so its not that much of a concern. I just hope the auto-shut off kicks in before a fire starts.

It could well be a decent butt warmer in the winter for one of my passengers.
 
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A single 10" is overpowering eh? I am about to do 2 giant 12" subs in my Mazda5 with 500watts going to each.. I play alot of music with heavy bass and it concerns me that your wiper is bouncing off the window and things are rattling around.. Could you be more specific about how bad the rattling is? BTW nice setup!
 
Jay-Biz said:
A single 10" is overpowering eh? I am about to do 2 giant 12" subs in my Mazda5 with 500watts going to each.. I play alot of music with heavy bass and it concerns me that your wiper is bouncing off the window and things are rattling around.. Could you be more specific about how bad the rattling is? BTW nice setup!

Hi Jay-Biz,

I would think 2 x 12" Subs would be super overkill. I was going to go with a single 12" but didn't only because the box was too big and would require me to always have my 3rd row seats folded down. After listening to the 10", I'm glad I didn't go with the 12", but you may have your own preferences and reasons.

I listen to all types of music but have a large collection of rap and hip hop.

Regular music like love songs with lots of vocals and Top40 type songs are fine with the sub and amp and make the stock stereo sound much better.

If you listen to rap/dance/hiphop, where the bass frequency is much deeper, that is where I have found all the overpowering issues.

I have the amp/crossover calibrated to the rap music, so when I listen to the other types, I just increase the bass to +2 to +4 on the stock stereo headunit. If I calibrated the amp/crossover to Top40, when I listen to rap, I have to decrease the bass to -6 to -4 on the headunit, and it is still a bit too overpowering even at volumes as low as 6. I do not have the crossover set at lowpass because it cuts out too much of the vocals with the stock stereo.

Before purchasing, I listened to the difference between a ported box and non-ported box. For rap, the ported box sounded much better and more natural with better echo effects. The non-ported box fitted better for the car and doesn't have as nice of sound but also didn't have as nice of a overall finish in my case (all carpet, versus plexiglass front).

3 Main Problems with sub when listening to rap :

1. Mazda 5 rear license plate frame only has 2 top screw fittings. The license plate and license plate holder (plastic piece that usually has the dealership name) has 4 holes (2 top, 2 bottom). Because only the top 2 screws are fastened, with deep bass, the bottom part of the license plate vibrates against the license plate holder. I have used a very strong double-sided tape between the license plate and license plate holder as well as a single-sided cushion tape between the rear-side of the license plate against the car tailgate.

2. When positioning the sub box facing the rear tailgate window, with the rap songs with deep bass, and at volumes at about 16, it causes the rear windshield wiper to jump up against the glass causing a smacking sound. It does not do this with songs with deep bass. It also can be corrected be turning the sub box to face the side windows of the car, but your sub box may be much larger in size.

3. When having the sun-roof is in fully open position and with deep bass songs, there is something rattling up top. I have not really investigated where the rattling it is coming from but will in a few weeks.

Other than the above, the typical side view mirrors vibrate. With all the windows closed, the car keeps most of the sound inside even at high volume levels.
 
Thanks for the great advice hagow_boy.

I am reconsidering my decision now - maybe I will do a single 12" instead. I will let you know how it goes after the install!
 
I have 2 12" subs in a plexibox in the back where the 3rd row seats are (down). Attached to it is a Rockford Fosgate 300watt amp. Input is RCA direct input from a Pioneer head unit. It can be extreme to the point where your insides are vibrating tremendously (cooool), but haven't heard any rattling either inside or out. If you're hearing anything like that it's because they're are some loose screws/fittings. Bass can be heard, especially with windows open, up to a couple hundred feet in front of the car, and sides as well. I have an 18db control knob in the dash to adjust the amount of bass which is good. I also have the amp directly attached to the back of the speaker box, with a quick disconnect 120V 20AMP connector in case I need to remove the entire box/amp when carrying anything. I paid only $129 for the box with 12" subs (from XSCargo), and got the amp on sale for $179.00, plus installation (BestBuy) for another $120. I will include picts on my next post.
 
Vinnyfast said:
I have 2 12" subs in a plexibox in the back where the 3rd row seats are (down). Attached to it is a Rockford Fosgate 300watt amp. Input is RCA direct input from a Pioneer head unit. It can be extreme to the point where your insides are vibrating tremendously (cooool), but haven't heard any rattling either inside or out. If you're hearing anything like that it's because they're are some loose screws/fittings. Bass can be heard, especially with windows open, up to a couple hundred feet in front of the car, and sides as well. I have an 18db control knob in the dash to adjust the amount of bass which is good. I also have the amp directly attached to the back of the speaker box, with a quick disconnect 120V 20AMP connector in case I need to remove the entire box/amp when carrying anything. I paid only $129 for the box with 12" subs (from XSCargo), and got the amp on sale for $179.00, plus installation (BestBuy) for another $120. I will include picts on my next post.
 

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Looks like a very clean install. Good job hiding all the wiring, I always find that to be the hardest part.

Just hopefully the amp doesn't get too warm under that seat.

And that pioneer HU you are looking at is top notch. You would be very happy with it.
 
Vinnyfast said:
I have 2 12" subs in a plexibox in the back where the 3rd row seats are (down). Attached to it is a Rockford Fosgate 300watt amp. Input is RCA direct input from a Pioneer head unit. It can be extreme to the point where your insides are vibrating tremendously (cooool), but haven't heard any rattling either inside or out. If you're hearing anything like that it's because they're are some loose screws/fittings. Bass can be heard, especially with windows open, up to a couple hundred feet in front of the car, and sides as well. I have an 18db control knob in the dash to adjust the amount of bass which is good. I also have the amp directly attached to the back of the speaker box, with a quick disconnect 120V 20AMP connector in case I need to remove the entire box/amp when carrying anything. I paid only $129 for the box with 12" subs (from XSCargo), and got the amp on sale for $179.00, plus installation (BestBuy) for another $120. I will include picts on my next post.

You must elaborate on the DVD head rests. What brand, where, how much, picture quality, etc???
 
Got the headrests from this link http://www.mp3playerstore.com/stuff_you_need/special/IN-737.htm Cost me $550 Canadian shipped to my door in 3 days. This also included the DVD player/tv tuner, and tv antenna, though I haven't been able to get a clear tv signal, but the DVD player (with remote) and headrests (with 2 more remotes) work great! The clearest and sharpest LCD's I've seen so far! Had them now for about 6 months and they work great! very bright, have to turn them down to about half brightness. So far, no one even noticed that I replaced the headrests. You may be able to get similiar screens cheaper elsewhere, but beware of the quality. DVD player even came with a remote sensor so you can still operate the controls with the unit mounted inside the glovebox - no overheating, and no dirt! Only thing extra they needed was a $15 noise filter, but that could be because of my Pioneer unit.
 
Not a bad price. SO it's leather only? Bummer. I would love to get the headrests as DVD players all in one. Your DVD player fit ok in the glove box? Don't suppose you could post a few more pics focused on the headrests? If not that's cool.
 
Got the headrests from this link http://www.mp3playerstore.com/stuff_you_need/special/IN-737.htm Cost me $550 Canadian shipped to my door in 3 days. This also included the DVD player/tv tuner, and tv antenna, though I haven't been able to get a clear tv signal, but the DVD player (with remote) and headrests (with 2 more remotes) work great! The clearest and sharpest LCD's I've seen so far! Had them now for about 6 months and they work great! very bright, have to turn them down to about half brightness. So far, no one even noticed that I replaced the headrests. You may be able to get similiar screens cheaper elsewhere, but beware of the quality. DVD player even came with a remote sensor so you can still operate the controls with the unit mounted inside the glovebox - no overheating, and no dirt! Only thing extra they needed was a $15 noise filter, but that could be because of my Pioneer unit.

(2thumbs), any glovebox (pics) by any chance?
 
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