Here is the entire conversation between maniac motors and myself. The
BLACK is his response to a post on his site. The
RED is my response to his email and then the
BLUE is him answering again. I dont know what to believe. The whole bunch of people having the problem, or the ONE person trying to sell me something.
From: christian caudle <christian@maniacelectricmotors.com>
Subject: Web site comment ??
To:
brianrlawlor@yahoo.com
Date: Saturday, June 19, 2010, 1:38 PM
I have read your comments on the web site. What would make the ECU draw more current than it needs having a more capable & better alternator?
The Mazda Protege has an ECU which is unique to most import systems today and its predecessors. From what I have learned so far, there is a dual regulator switching system that only recognizes a narrow amperage AND voltage and rejects anything out of that window. So its not the ECU asking for anything at all, just the fact if there is more there, thats what makes the computer go bad. The computer does not go bad. It samples the required loads and allows the fiels to adjust.
This is not a 'High Volt' alternator it is a 'High Amp' Alternator.
Voltage pushes amperage. There would be no benefit to a 12volt 180 amp alternator. Any good audio system requires the higher voltage to run at its maximum rated wattage. As stated above, voltage is pushing that current. We should both be talking about engine on voltage. 12V is engine off. 13.5-14.5 is good engine on voltage and this functions the same no matter what the alternator's capabilities.
The best thing for you to do is learn how an alternator works on a vehicle's system through an actual 'vehicle electrical system' manual and not through fear spread on a forum. Then you might feel better to buy a HO Alternator.
I am an electrical engineer and graduated ITT Tech in 1999. I have learned from many ways and have a much broader experience than just alternators. I will feel better about purchasing a HO alternator when the person selling it educates THEMSELVES rather than telling a potential customer to go learn something. If you are the self proclaimed professional, then your SELLING skills suck ass. If you had mentioned anything about the Mazda systems specifically, that would have been a much better argument than anything else. Its much easier to believe a few hundred Mazda enthsiasts that have had problems with this than ONE person trying to sell me something. I am sorry that this obviously offended you. You wanted me to guaratee all your car's electrical failures to buy my alternator and since us or no anyone will do that, I did not feel I was going to be able to sell you anything. If you do find a builder that will warranty all of your vehicles electrical system and you feel better to 'go out on the limb' please let me know the results. I am 1000% sure it wont be a blown ECU.
I truly wish this viral and incorrect information would stop spreading. ECUs can fail, but not from a good HO Alternator. Your comment on my site feeds this mis-information. We do sell many of these and have no issues what-so-ever.
My one comment does not feed anything. Its a viral concern because so many others are trying to learn from this common problem. Call it a genuine concern and try to be more proactive and professional than a slimy used car salesman. Care more about the customer than you wallet and I bet you will do much better. There is no common problem with ECU damage from alternators. Every Protege customer that has purchased our HO alternator are happy to solve their lack of power issue (at the same regulated voltage).
Outside of all the fear have you seen an alternator 'blow up' an ECU?
No I have not, and NO I DONT WANT TO! Thats the reason why I am trying to ask questions before I make any purchases. I have my stock Mazda ECU (approx $400 to replace), and my aftermarket Haltech (approx $1000 to replace), my J&S safeguard (approx $500 new), my VOOM PC and much more electrical s*** to worry about in there. I dont want to take any chances alright. That investment is worth protecting and unstable voltage or simple low voltage out of range trying to power 'stuff' causes a problem for all electronics, even the ECU can send bad signals from low voltage. I should of asked has anyone claimed their ECU blew up due to a HO Alternator. Because we are a small company and as many that we sell I would guess there are 1000s of Protege owners with upgraded alternators since we have sold 100s.
All alternator's (stock or high output) are capable of very high voltage. This is why they are regulated. If they are not regulated within correct specifications any alternator will cause damage. The amperage (current) capabilities have nothing to do with this.
The amps is what I want. You offer no information about the voltage, which is my stated concern on the site. OK. Fair. The voltage is regulated the same as stock with ECU input: it just has more capable amperage keepng voltage more stable during higher than average demands. I guess I couldn't get past your request that I guarantee your whole vehicle.
We do stand behind our alternators. We have a good price with a good warranty. Any install problem or electrical issue can be blamed on or mimmick a bad alternator so we do not warranty your labor or other components damaged.
Sounds like you are soft on this subject regardless. You can dance around standing behind your product all you want. That does not make you a good vendor. Our warranty is good. We have less than half the industry average in claims and all customers that have had to make any claim are very happy at how well we handle them. We are good and I hope you do find someone that warranties all your electronics for buying their HO Alternator, that just seemed unreasonable to me. There is always the human element to all installations, no matter how certified, degreed, or experienced you are.
We have seen many times people try to check an alternator by disconnecting their battery with the engine running - the resulting voltage spike in todays vehicles usually does damage something. We have seen people jump cars and accidently cross cables and destroying a non-fuse protecteded regulator and claim alternator failure. We have seen poorly grounded systems draw so much current that the over-worked alternator performs poorly and prematurely burns up. We have had shops call to figure out how to get a new alternator to work that they installed, and we have to tell them to charge the battery ...
I dont see how any of that pertains to me? This is the human element that would prevent any builder from guaranteeing all your electronics. Again good luck, I truly wish the best in your efforts so you can post to all the enthuisiast that all went well with your alternator upgrade. No matter who you buy from if it works out well for you it is good for my whole industry.
End conversation.
CAN SOMEBODY PLEASE SHED SOME MORE LIGHT ON WHAT THEY THINK ABOUT THIS PLEASE? THANKS!
