alright - here goes. KL-P5-take2

ok - got my trans mount for the ATX. ...and now I see something upsetting -

I need the mount for the rear/firewall mount. To be specific - the bracket that bolts to the bellhousing.... ie: 39-010.

grrrrrr.........
 
Thanks to another board I'm frequenting for info - a member there helped me out quite a bit. A/C compressor, rear bracket/insulator/mount for firewall>Engine, and 2 O2 sensors (spares he had) for 150 bucks shipped to my doorstep.

....guess it is good to spread your wings and try other avenues.
 
Engine's in the car! Going back to the junkyard tomorrow to get a few extra parts and pieces I'm going to need.

pics!
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Wheels back on her, axles/intermediate shaft stabbed and torqued down, last mount for the trans done, radiator in (I need a thin fan though... :( ), need rad hoses, and there's one line that comes off the right side of the engine that looks like a fuel line, but I don't know why it'd be going to the radiator, or the front of the car at all. Comes from under the throttle body, where all that damn fuel seperator stuff is. Any ideas?
 
I'm pretty sure that's a coolant line. It's about 1-1/2' long, coming from a hardline near the main radiator hose on the drivers side, right? It goes to the bottom of the over flow tank on the drivers side attached to the top of the radiator. I wondered the same thing when I did my swap and it all made sense when I did the swap in the Milly. I just had a rubber cap on it with a clamp without any issues. :)
 
Right on! Much appreciated lewie!

Now to the other matters of importance:
Splicing thru the harnesses to make the car run. Getting a slim fan for the driver side slot on the radiator. Splicing the disty plugs (bofum....the 6pin and the 3pin) from a pgt to the mx6 harness.
 
update: Getting the motor all buttoned up, wired up, and little things done. Waiting on a radiator fan (slim), O2 sensors, and I think I'm going to have to spring for a different intermediate shaft for the passenger side axle ass'y (it's too short really).

Nothing huge as far as progress, but she's starting to take shape finally:
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Cool stuff.....did you have to give up AC or just the cruise control? I can see the lines in one pic but didn't remember if the compressor just bolts up to the KL. Looks like the GTSpec stb would clear the motor.
 
the stocker will clear - I see no need for the GTSpec stuff...not like I'm driving this hard enough to gain anything from it anyways. As far as A/C goes - I have to go back to the salvage yard again to grab the compressor lines - the fittings on my car's A/C equipment are larger than the sockets on the KL A/C compressor.

I'll be keeping cruise if I can. The car the harness/ecu came from had cruise....so let's see how it works out. If I have it my way - I'll keep both A/C AND cruise.
 
The factory strut tower bar clears the cover thing on that intake manifold if you:
A: Switch the strut top brackets to their opposite sides
B: Add washers to each stud where the bar mounts.
C. Turn the bar around.

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Ok, small update - I worked on some wiring yesterday. Now I have a question for those with this swap in place and working:

With regards to the splicing, soldering, connectorizing....where did you all make your connection points? Under the floorboard where the ECU's reside? I've just noticed an inordinate amount of wiring that I'm either going to have to delete (under the hood going to that fuse panel), or I'm going about this alllllllll wrong. I've made a (just guessing) dozen t-splices under that passenger floorboard cover to get these ECU's mated up and correct. I've tapped off the Light Blue ignition wire coming from the ignition switch as my START signal. I've gotten constant 12V to my MX6 ECU from the p5 ECU, ignition signal (same) and I stopped because I was wondering if I was doing it wrong.....I've been following that list that Slotege posted up, it's a gray photo that lists the initial wiring req'd to start the KL with the p5.

There's a TON of wiring I'll end up deleting when I get it started and running.

But beyond that - got the p5 exhaust piping off and out of the way finally. Got the intake piping in place, but think I'm going to re-do it after I saw that hole in the framerail that the piping would fit through. Going to stick that filter in that compartment in front of the driver-side front wheel, where it's protected from weather, grime, and heat (pretty much a perfect spot for it!).

Anyways, time to get back to work. Take care!
 
I did all my ECU connections under the kick panel on the passengers side like you did. But those plastic T-connections weren't splicing through the wire shielding and didn't work for me. So I ended up taking them all off and soldering all the connections. I have the P5 ECU in the stock location and my KL ECU mounted sideways near the exhaust tunnel. Though I know you have one more ECU there should be enough room to mount them all in there.

And as far as all the wiring in the bay, I just snipped off what I wasn't using anymore (a lot of FS-DE connections) with some metal shears and taped up the ends really well to protect from water and dirt.

Keep up the good work, mate! You're getting there! (2thumbs)
 
So you didn't tie any of the power connections (red/blk <FS> or blk/blue<KL>) at the under-hood fuse panel?
 
My memory is terrible but the only thing we tapped in the fuse block was a wire from a bundle underneath the fuse block towards the firewall. That's where we got power to the fuel injectors and distributor. My friend pretty much told me what to wire and I did it. I'm terrible with wiring. I love soldering but hate wiring schematics. heh-heh

But the black/red power wires for the ECU's were all tapped in the footwell.
 
Well - worked on it some more tonight. Got a boost in motivation....placed the battery temporarily - and turned the key on. Radio came on and now at least.....I have tunes to work to! Can't believe how jazzed I was from that little bit of forward progress.

Question now: On the KL ECU there's a LG wire that is on the C246 plug I do believe, it's for the fuel pump relay. On every schematic i've seen, it's at the 4th position over. I happen to have 2 quandries with this:
1.) my LG wire is 5 positions over
2.) the 4th position wire isn't LG.....it's BRN.

WTF gives!? Which wire am I to tap to ground to make it think it's controlling the F.P.R.?

Another one is the power for the fuel rails and disty plugs. I've read the wiring schemes, but the wires that have been said to splice through for them - aren't pinning out the way I expected. I'm going to have to find some schematics for everything. I'm guessing I'm looking at the wrong year, or there's more differences than I thought between a 94' PGT and a 94' MX6.

Anyone with images of the wiring pinouts for a '94 MX6?
 
rerouted the intake piping tonight.....and worked on teh wiring.....again.....

Still hunting for the fuel relay wires (from the P5 and the KL)
still hunting for the power wires for fuel rails, disty (small plug, big plug has 12v).

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and how she sits presently:
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Got 40'ish lb'z of fuel pressure today - it was a good day indeed!

Got the fuel relay handled, got that last ground on the block, got the power steering return line hooked up and routed to the PS Fluid res. Also, got the radiator fan (12" slim) on the driver-side of the radiator for the added room and extra cooling for that transmission fluid cooler.

Still searching for those 2 fuelrail power wires and the 3-pin power for the disty. Still need to get the radiator hosing all sorted out (...gotta get them...lol). And finally - gotta get the trans wiring up and done. I'm wondering something - I don't remember when I removed the axles from the car some months back - but I don't imagine they were loose while inserted at all. The P5 axles have some "wiggle" to them while they're stabbed.....that's not normal, right?
 
For the power wires to the rail, for the two wires which have the same colors on the front and rear rails. Im not sure what the color is on mx6 wiring. Find that same color wire in the grey connector near the DIAG box. This is the wire that supplies power to the injectors. On the Probe wiring it was white with a red tracer.
For power to the distributor, look at the 3 pin connector on teh disty and find the wire closest to the radiator and note the wire color. You should be able to find that same wire color at the grey connector mentioned earlier. I used a relay to supply fused power to both of these wires. The relay is triggered by a key-on power source in the fusebox as shown here.
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Hopefully this gets you one step closer to firing it. (drinks)
 
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