alright - here goes. KL-P5-take2

Just realized those pictures from teh Houston Streets mag weren't showing.

Found some coilovers to deal with the added weight of the KL powerplant. Believe it or not....Probe GT coilovers will fit out cars like a glove - plus they're sprung for the weight of the KL. Going to be ordering those and doing a few other small projects before slappin the turbo on here - I can taste it now....she'll be glorious!

Watch out IFO - in October - you'll have something you weren't expecting coming in the form of a wagon! :)
 
Triple high five!

Y NO U pop the hood to show off the swap at the show?
 
oh I did - just not when we were getting setup.
IFO-hoodoff_zps9b0b6dd3.jpg
 
sure looks better in pics than it does in person....lol.

got alot of plans for this thing, just need the time and money to get taken care of.....
 
small update - went to the JY today to see if I could find a TPS. Sure nuff'....found the TPS sensor no problem. Then of all things - I stumbled across these gems:
d0474e95-b3ac-4e9b-9f7d-674933868b51_zpsd7a58c24.jpg

Mazda 929 Injectors (330cc). They'll be great for the boost/megasquirt build since they drop right into my existing fuelrails.
 
Nice find! Don't you need the pigtails and caps for them too though?
 
yeah.........I forgot about that part. d'oh!

I'll find them at LKQ - there's only about 20 929's there.....lol.
 
ihone said:
yeah.........I forgot about that part. d'oh!

I'll find them at LKQ - there's only about 20 929's there.....lol.
Click to expand...

Man, you're so lucky. All out junkyards are full of old, rusty cars that are beat to s***.

Thinking about making a strut tower bar? Hmmm? ;)
 
that'd be great bpro! I'm currently doing just as Evan hinted at.....as one time I was trying to come up with a STB that would accommodate the KL intake and still give great rigidity.

I've come up with a design (still hush-hush) that actually Ties into the firewall via a plate mounted behind the AC lines (if you keep the AC that is). It's a triangulated STB of sorts that isn't hinged or have any breaks in it - it's solid as can be with 1.5" DOM tubing, mandrel bends, and support gussets that are made of 3/8" plate......yeah - it'll be strong. I just need to know the mounting dimensions of those rears so I can make my rear STB. It'll be a monster also.....going to the floor via x-bracing and tie into the rear seat mounting positions also.

Can't wait to have all these pieces done....then I can feel good about making something myself......versus paying someone wayyyyyy too much for something that doesn't do much but look purdy....lol.
 
alright distance center to centers are

both small distances are 3.5", the longer distance is 5" thats center to center and i have pics i will be sending you
 
It took some manipulating - but got the coilovers installed lastnight.

I have it riding on almost full-height in the front and full height in the rear - and it's still tucking tire...lol.

Need to get my hands on some 8-10mm hubcentric spacers - anyone got a pair they want to let go of for cheap?
 
Another thing I need to engineer/jerry-rig (...)/fabricate - is a way to connect my swaybars and make them work again. As it stands now - they're both disconnected and will not reconnect to the strut tubes because of the missing mounting tabs.

I was looking around the net - and I've seen several ways of going about this.
1.) mount them to the control arm in various spots, but to get the most out of it - closest to the outside of the C.A.
2.) mount them to the point that the knuckle and strut are bolted together (2 bolts) with some steel bracketry
3.) ...don't mount them??? (nahhhhhh....gotta have moar stiffz)

Was looking at the control arms on the P5 already for a spot that has enough meat to possibly:
1.) weld a tab onto it and mount the sway bar there
2.) drill a hole and mount the sway bar there

Any "custom" ideas out there fellas? It's a rather easy idea - I just want to hear your ideas on where to mount it since the Probe Gt Teins didn't come with mounting tabs on the strut tubes.
 
Hmmm....that's an idea - mounting the swaybar link to the rear arm like that.

The front and rear are going to be completely different ideas - I already know this.

I'm leaning toward mounting the fronts directly to the control arm - should be plenty stiff and do their jobs from that point (whether that means drilling a hole or welding a tab on the control arm itself).

The rears are going to be a different story. The bars above are a definite maybe - as I could just make up some mild-steel tabs in teh shop and weld them directly to the stockers. OR - come up with some sort of "hoop" that is strong enough to withstand the flex, but would be able to bolt to the stock knuckle>Strut bolt holes.
 
ihone said:
that'd be great bpro! I'm currently doing just as Evan hinted at.....as one time I was trying to come up with a STB that would accommodate the KL intake and still give great rigidity.

I've come up with a design (still hush-hush) that actually Ties into the firewall via a plate mounted behind the AC lines (if you keep the AC that is). It's a triangulated STB of sorts that isn't hinged or have any breaks in it - it's solid as can be with 1.5" DOM tubing, mandrel bends, and support gussets that are made of 3/8" plate......yeah - it'll be strong. I just need to know the mounting dimensions of those rears so I can make my rear STB. It'll be a monster also.....going to the floor via x-bracing and tie into the rear seat mounting positions also.

Can't wait to have all these pieces done....then I can feel good about making something myself......versus paying someone wayyyyyy too much for something that doesn't do much but look purdy....lol.
Click to expand...

1.5" DOM is excessive to say the least. 1 x .089 DOM or even .75 x .089 Chrom-oly will be more than sufficient. I would triangulate it forward not backward. Think about it like this: the fire wall is part of the "box" that is a uni-body, its the most structural and strongest part. Forward and backward(ie:Firewall-forward and rear strut-back) of the box is the weakest and least structural sound. Triangulating forward or backward of the box yields the most gain.

My Chassis fab teacher had one on his P5 that was triangulated to the radiator support. Says he took a video of it with it not bolted down on the radiator support to see how well it does. Saw upto half an inch of back and forth movement under hard cornering.
 
Thanks for the input.

That goes into the notes section of my "already-too-full" database of stuff I need to take into consideration.
 
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