Air-to-Water Intercoolers

spacemonkey said:
I didnt read the rest but I saw a RX-7 with air to water innercooler. He poored ice water in it on the dyno and has foam around his innercooler and soaks it in water...pretty cool.

I heard the only downfall is pressure drop.
If he add's some rubbing alchol to his water and put's it in the freezer it will not freeze.32* is where water freezes, so he can now have below Zero water temp and still be liquid.We have done this on a few turbocharged Mustangs and noticed large temp drop's in the air.
 
Don't do it unless you are a racer. In normal driving it will eventually get heat soak and be less effective than straight air to air cooling. You would have to keep adding ice to do any good. Just get a water sprayer, then you can use evaporative cooling which would work much better.

But if you want to drag and look original at car shows......
 
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Yes...I was talking to some RX-7 guys and they were saying hes a straightline drag racing guy.

I asked why and they said he has to be...he has a air-water innercooler.

My guess is the pressure drop is from water being more dense? Not sure. I just know for daily driveing Air-air is better...thats why you see them more then your air-water innercooler.
 
spacemonkey said:
Yes...I was talking to some RX-7 guys and they were saying hes a straightline drag racing guy.

I asked why and they said he has to be...he has a air-water innercooler.

My guess is the pressure drop is from water being more dense? Not sure. I just know for daily driveing Air-air is better...thats why you see them more then your air-water innercooler.
Water to Air exchangers are in Lightning and Cobras. If done right they can be very hard to beat (Air to Air VS Water To Air).



Allot of people talk about heat soak with water. Yes, while in Boost your charge temp climbs and adds heat to the water. How long are you driving around in boost?? With a good pump,Aluminum water tank and aluminum lines you will dissipate heat relatively fast.If you are worried about having hot water in your tank, you can run an exchanger up front to cool the water ie, copper fin/tube exchanger.
 
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ddogg777 said:
Don't do it unless you are a racer. In normal driving it will eventually get heat soak and be less effective than straight air to air cooling. You would have to keep adding ice to do any good. Just get a water sprayer, then you can use evaporative cooling which would work much better.

But if you want to drag and look original at car shows......
How can you say this? When you are sitting still in your air to air is it cooling?
I think you will find that unless you are doing35 mph or more your air to air is just about useless, as the air to water is good just sitting there.
I will show you my results when I am done, I like to be different, everybody has air to air, like you said you go to a show and you won't see many air to water.
I think the main reason is that air to air is easier a lot less parts.
Whatever you do keep it tight.
Peace
 
I don't really get the pgysics in back of the peltier elements, I will keep on reading about it.

How much do these things cost? Because the ones that they show on the site seem verry small and will the car battery give enough power to run enough peltier elements to cool down quickly.

Do you plan on sticking the cold side on the tank of water or to have fins in the water and to place it directly in the water.

How do you plan on dissapating the heat? If you could make a cooling system with a small oil cooler and a way to have the hot side connected to it, it might work alot better? Have you thought of that?

How fast does it heat up or start cooling down, could this be used only when it is neede or does it have to worm up?
 
mazda2002 said:
I don't really get the pgysics in back of the peltier elements, I will keep on reading about it.

How much do these things cost? Because the ones that they show on the site seem verry small and will the car battery give enough power to run enough peltier elements to cool down quickly.

Do you plan on sticking the cold side on the tank of water or to have fins in the water and to place it directly in the water.

How do you plan on dissapating the heat? If you could make a cooling system with a small oil cooler and a way to have the hot side connected to it, it might work alot better? Have you thought of that?

How fast does it heat up or start cooling down, could this be used only when it is neede or does it have to worm up?


This is not the right forum for deep physics, but Peltiers work on the principles of thermocouples. For a light discussion of Peltier elements, see this site:


Peltier Elements

How fast do Peltiers reach operating temps? It varies based upon how much current (12 volts DC) is available. At idle only about 40% of your alternater's current is being produced. The amount is even lower when ambient temperature gets above 90*F.

If unlimited current is available (or at least the maximum current rated for the device), it can reach operating temperature in under 30 seconds. If the coolant fluid is already hot (you've been driving around and stop at the Kwik-e-Mart), it will take longer for the Peltier to reach it's lower temps because of the heat that it is extracting out of the water. Remember, Cold does not really exist, it is only the absence of heat.

The idea for dissapating the heat is to attach the peltiers (cold side) directly to the side of the aluminum tank. Each Peltier will also have to have a heat sink attached to it's hot side to dissipate the heat transferred from the water. It might also be purdent to put small muffin fans on the heatsinks (think: computer CPU heatsink & fan).

Something else you can do to control the current draw is install a dial (potentiometer) to control how much current the peltiers draw. I've seen this done on computer cases where the user could dial up more current when they wanted to really overclock the CPU, or less when running at regular speed. This could allow you to dial down the current draw when chugging around town and crank it up when racing down the strip.

By attaching the peltiers directly to the aluminum tank, the whole tank really becomes a cold plate. You could make the argument that the luquid sitting in the center of the tank is receiving the least amount of cooling, but in reality, heat spreads through water/antifreeze pretty evenly, so the cooling effect would be even as well.

Cost? It varies by size of device, amount of heat the device can move (wattage), duty cycle of the device (lifespan), etc...
Here's a page on some prices on a few of these devices, to give you an idea:
Peltier Prices

Enjoy
 
just sub to this, looks very interesting

orange I am going to start calling you guennia :) glad someone has the balls to try different things
 
Guess what parts just came in. Can you say LOW AMBIENT TEMPS

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
DSCF0004.JPG
 
MAMotorsports said:
Water to Air exchangers are in Lightning and Cobras. If done right they can be very hard to beat (Air to Air VS Water To Air).



Allot of people talk about heat soak with water. Yes, while in Boost your charge temp climbs and adds heat to the water. How long are you driving around in boost?? With a good pump,Aluminum water tank and aluminum lines you will dissipate heat relatively fast.If you are worried about having hot water in your tank, you can run an exchanger up front to cool the water ie, copper fin/tube exchanger.

Have you seen that new coolant. The no-water stuff non-toxic goo.

Would it be feasible to use that in an air-water intercooler?

It has better cooling abilites and doesn't require pressure like a regular radiator (which it is usually used in). Just a thought...
 
StuttersC said:
Have you seen that new coolant. The no-water stuff non-toxic goo.

Would it be feasible to use that in an air-water intercooler?

It has better cooling abilites and doesn't require pressure like a regular radiator (which it is usually used in). Just a thought...
I have never seen that, but if it is thick I don't know. if you look at that black part on my rad. the water has to flow thru that and they are thin
 
orangezoom said:
I have never seen that, but if it is thick I don't know. if you look at that black part on my rad. the water has to flow thru that and they are thin
Let me look for a link. It's not really thick. It runs through a regular radiator, just the cooling system doesn't have the pressure usually associated with car.

GRM just switched their Porject 5.0 over to it.

Its just a thought...
 

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