aftermarket ROD change? on factory pistons!

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Mazdaspeed 6 SOLD/Challemger SRT8 DD/ 2012 Mustang BOSS 302
Can Pauter rods be installed in the factory pistons?

Can this Rods be mounted, by the bottom, without removing the engine from the car?

I have seen other mazdas here in PR that has been change the rods by the bottom of the engine, without removing the engine from the car, or disasembling the engine.

It all depends if the piston pin can be mounted without a press.

If this can be done we can resolve the rod-snaping sindrome at a lower cost than a full build up.

For me down time is very important, and if this can be done it will be just a thing of a day or two.
 
i believe it can be done, no one has tried it. the wrist pin is floating on both stock and aftermarket piston.
 
we only mention the rods in this car because they are the weakest part but dont sleep on the pistons being weak as well. i would hate to see u thrown new rods in and add power just to crack a piston in half. when my motor blew my pistons were cracked as well as the rod.

I was also told that the pauters would not work on stock pistons.
 
How can they not work on stock pistons, when aftermarket pistons are built off factory specs,not the specs of the aftermarket rods.

it's like saying Pauter will only work with Arias, but not with Wiseco..

If the pistons are forged as Mazda claims.. I may be interested in swapping the rods as well, and crack the boost up. We can't say the pistons will crack with aftermarket rods, perhaps the stock rods, since they snapped, it caused the pistons to break. just a thought... I say go for it, crank it up to 20lbs and let us know after a few weeks f daily driving. I'll be next in line, lol.
 
I was also told that the pauters would not work on stock pistons.

the wrist pin size is different IIRC, i do not have a pauter here to measure but i believe you would need to machine the piston or the rod if this were even to be tried.

it's like saying Pauter will only work with Arias, but not with Wiseco..

there are no Wiseco pistons currently designed to work on the DISI MZR. the pistons listed at Wiseco and by other vendors are designed for the standard 2.3. i can confirm from fitting the pistons the Wisecos will not work. i have contacted Wiseco's tech department and confirmed that. So no, the Pauters designed for the DISI MZR will not work with the Wisecos.
 
The only problem with pulling the rods out the bottom is the oil squirters in there have to be removed to get the piston out of there
 
the wrist pin size is different IIRC, i do not have a pauter here to measure but i believe you would need to machine the piston or the rod if this were even to be tried.



there are no Wiseco pistons currently designed to work on the DISI MZR. the pistons listed at Wiseco and by other vendors are designed for the standard 2.3. i can confirm from fitting the pistons the Wisecos will not work. i have contacted Wiseco's tech department and confirmed that. So no, the Pauters designed for the DISI MZR will not work with the Wisecos.



I really need to know if the PAUTER's will work on the factory pistons, I always thougt that aftermarket rods and piston's were made following factory measurements.

If the PAUTERS wrist pins work on the factory pistons, I intend to swap them by the bottom, not removing the engine from the car, or the pistons from the block, Just pulling them enough to change the wrist pins and push them up with the pauter's.
 
How can they not work on stock pistons, when aftermarket pistons are built off factory specs,not the specs of the aftermarket rods.

it's like saying Pauter will only work with Arias, but not with Wiseco..

If the pistons are forged as Mazda claims.. I may be interested in swapping the rods as well, and crack the boost up. We can't say the pistons will crack with aftermarket rods, perhaps the stock rods, since they snapped, it caused the pistons to break. just a thought... I say go for it, crank it up to 20lbs and let us know after a few weeks f daily driving. I'll be next in line, lol.



If the rods are swap then the pistons will be the weakest link, but I don't intend in boosting more than 18 to 19 psi.

Let see what happens.
 
Hypereutectic pistons suck ass from Ford ask Mustang guys they are the weakest link in the engine.

And dropping the pistons down far enough to remove the wrist pins means pulling them all the way out getting them out is not easy either. you have to remove the crank, oil squirters (with these in you can't drop the piston very far at all.), balance shaft assembly, in order to drop the crank you will need to remove the trans to get to the flywheel etc... But what do I know I've only built a few of them.
 
Hypereutectic pistons suck ass from Ford ask Mustang guys they are the weakest link in the engine.

And dropping the pistons down far enough to remove the wrist pins means pulling them all the way out getting them out is not easy either. you have to remove the crank, oil squirters (with these in you can't drop the piston very far at all.), balance shaft assembly, in order to drop the crank you will need to remove the trans to get to the flywheel etc... But what do I know I've only built a few of them.
Well that sucks.......
 
Hypereutectic pistons

They are the heat treated ones,that is why the piston to cylinder wall clearance is as tight as it is.

From where you got the information the our pistons are"Hypereutectic pistons" the heat treated one?

If so they suppose to be equal or better than Forged pistons?
 
From where you got the information the our pistons are"Hypereutectic pistons" the heat treated one?

If so they suppose to be equal or better than Forged pistons?

Hypereutectic pistons are simply cast pistons with a high silicone content that are heat treated.They are awesome in NA applications and OEM manufacturers often use them for their low cost and capability for tight piston to cylinder wall clearance.They are ok for low boost applications.

But when you turn the boost up,they will break.
 
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