AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

Listen guys on another note, Im hoping someone has an idea of whats up with my car. I do have a nice tune, with a proper a/f ratio. 11.8-11.9 in full boost and more like 12.5 at half to quarter throttle. Now even though my car is more powerfull than ever I notice that Im still getting hesitation here and there. Sometimes its like it just doesnt want to go. And others I can do a 3rd gear pull and the power skips in and out.....lags for a few hundred rpm then kicks in and flies. Sometimes it skips in and out. I been chasing a better tune but I dont think there is one much better for my car than what I got. If I run the stocker map it limits the hesitation but again runs slow as ****. The only thing I can come up with is my WGA going bad but its only got 39K on the whole dam system not to mention i cant blow through the diaphram so it presents itself as being good. Any ideas?
 
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You never know.

You should upload your tune ;)

I would but I gotta say I used a few tunes in this library to get started and had plenty of issues. Bottom line is nothing can compare to a custom tune specifically for your car. It takes alot of time but plenty worth it.
 
Listen guys on another note, Im hoping someone has an idea of whats up with my car. I do have a nice tune, with a proper a/f ratio. 11.8-11.9 in full boost and more like 12.5 at half to quarter throttle. Now even though my car is more powerfull than ever I notice that Im still getting hesitation here and there. Sometimes its like it just doesnt want to go. And others I can do a 3rd gear pull and the power skips in and out.....lags for a few hundred rpm then kicks in and flies. Sometimes it skips in and out. I been chasing a better tune but I dont think there is one much better for my car than what I got. If I run the stocker map it limits the hesitation but again runs slow as ****. The only thing I can come up with is my WGA going bad but its only got 39K on the whole dam system not to mention i cant blow through the diaphram so it presents itself as being good. Any ideas?

I'd just be guessing, but the common culprits are:
Coilpacks - Wires - Plugs, boost leaks, etc. Also, I've heard of people having a bad MAF and reporting similar symptoms. I'd prolly start by making sure all vac lines and couplers are tight, then check plugs and clean the MAF with carb cleaner or the like.
 
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I'd just be guessing, but the common culprits are:
Coilpacks - Wires - Plugs, boost leaks, etc. Also, I've heard of people having a bad MAF and reporting similar symptoms. I'd prolly start by making sure all vac lines and couplers are tight, then check plugs and clean the MAF with carb cleaner or the like.

What is the frequency of the problem? We need more details to better delineate whether its an electronic or mechanical problem. MAF could be bad, do you have datalogging? If so, check your MAF voltage. And I'd be careful if you try cleaning it - i know a bunch of peeps that do more harm than good messing w/ those. Also, I dont know what type of setup you are running but if your MAF is relocated to the cold side you should check for boost leaks on the hot side. And take a look at your spark plugs. Before you do anything tho, make sure that all your connections from the AFC to the ECU are good and tight. GL man.
 
Anybody know if using a wire crimp on the datalogging wire would affect the A/F reading sent to the laptop? I was getting a reading, but it didn't agree 100% with my gauge. Maybe I didn't recalibrate it right, but I'm just wondering if that would cause an issue.
 
Anybody know if using a wire crimp on the datalogging wire would affect the A/F reading sent to the laptop? I was getting a reading, but it didn't agree 100% with my gauge. Maybe I didn't recalibrate it right, but I'm just wondering if that would cause an issue.

nope, the impedance of the tiny metal piece in one of those crimps is no different than the wire that fits in it. Just make sure there is a good connection. I love those 3M clamps, great for people like me who would rather not pull out a soldering iron for every little tap. just my 2 cents.
 
nope, the impedance of the tiny metal piece in one of those crimps is no different than the wire that fits in it. Just make sure there is a good connection. I love those 3M clamps, great for people like me who would rather not pull out a soldering iron for every little tap. just my 2 cents.

impedance isn't so much the concern as voltage drop, but in either case your statement is correct.

That said, soldering your connections is REALLY the way to go.
 
I just wanted to make sure I had the right wire this time before ******* anymore of my s*** up. But yes I will solder it hopefully soon.
 
impedance isn't so much the concern as voltage drop, but in either case your statement is correct.

That said, soldering your connections is REALLY the way to go.

the impedance is what would cause voltage drop in this case - they are interrelated. of course this is granted the stipulation that the clamp was a factor; which its not :)
 
you can have a greater resistance on the circuit without voltage drop given the right conditions. for instance, add a bulb to a circuit. you will increase the watts, amps, and ohms, but unless you overload it, you will maintain voltage.

off topic so I'll stop now. but regardless, I agree, unless there is corrosion, the problem (assuming there is one) lies elsewhere.

one may be reading correctly and the other may not..
 
I got a question hoping someone can answer. Why is it that everyone says to set the PWM mode to "Pressure 0 to 30 Psi/3 vdc FS". I understand the pressure part, but I assume the /3 vdc FS part is 3 volts for the maf. Why not put the it to "Pressure 0 to 30 Psi/5 vdc FS" since we have a 5v maf?

The reason I am asking this is that I am maxing out my MAF at 5psi, and from the data logs its when the Table A goes to 3v. Keep in mind that I have an NA ecu, and from what I have read it is calibrated different then the MSP ecu.

So I wondering about this. I removed my FCD which is not recomended anyway and was hoping by changing the setting to 0 to 30psi/5vdc FS would prevent my fuel cuts......but no, chilly day today and my car was fuel cutting like crazy.

My tune is great...just wish someone could tell how to prevent my car from fuel cutting.
 
What is the frequency of the problem? We need more details to better delineate whether its an electronic or mechanical problem. MAF could be bad, do you have datalogging? If so, check your MAF voltage. And I'd be careful if you try cleaning it - i know a bunch of peeps that do more harm than good messing w/ those. Also, I dont know what type of setup you are running but if your MAF is relocated to the cold side you should check for boost leaks on the hot side. And take a look at your spark plugs. Before you do anything tho, make sure that all your connections from the AFC to the ECU are good and tight. GL man.

its pretty much a constant driving condition. Easy to avoid if I dont stomp it but still... I have my MAF relocated to the cold side and im pretty positive I have no leaks. My vac reads -20. I do have datalogging but I gotta admit thats one area of the ss afc Im not familiar with. I just got into adjusting the fuel maps. What should the MAF voltage be like 5 or something right?? And what part of the program would show me? Now that you said something bout the MAF I remember I did clean it with brake cleaner before I put my turbo in. Maybe I messed it up. My plugs and wires are new. And I find it hard to beleive my coil packs would go bad right after installing my turbo. (I run a complete oem MSP kit with 40k and the addition of a fmic and ss afc) It just sucks to have a nasty tune but not really be able to enjoy it.
 
Amen, I'm getting close (drive2)

Yea dude, aint it insane the hidden power the car can hold. I never really understood till I drove my buddies msp with basic upgrades like aluminum IC piping, turbo back exhaust, intake, ect. and the thing was stupid slow, ran nice as hell with only 60k originall miles but all in all just dumb slow. Pretty much the way my car felt without the ss afc as well. But till driving my boys car I had nothing to compare and thought my car was just jacked and had bad compression. But I guess they just come slower than a retarted slug crawling through cow s***. Hard to say realisticlly but it feels like a 20hp gain with a proper tune. But dont forget I still have some kinks to work out hoping someone here will lead me in the right direction. And thanks again everyone for the help.... most people up are awesome and some I just cant thank enough.
 
So I wondering about this. I removed my FCD which is not recomended anyway and was hoping by changing the setting to 0 to 30psi/5vdc FS would prevent my fuel cuts......but no, chilly day today and my car was fuel cutting like crazy.

My tune is great...just wish someone could tell how to prevent my car from fuel cutting.
I drove my car around the other day, went back to the stock supermap because the tunes I had worked on for hours for my summer tune and then again for my fall tune, included the exhaust mani leak I had, which is now fixed finally! but gotta start all over, either way whenever it drops temps it fuel cuts like crazzzy, it sucks.. but w/o the exhaust mani leak im hoping to tune that out, i hope 10-20 hours tuning should do it.

its pretty much a constant driving condition. Easy to avoid if I dont stomp it but still... I have my MAF relocated to the cold side and im pretty positive I have no leaks. My vac reads -20. I do have datalogging but I gotta admit thats one area of the ss afc Im not familiar with. I just got into adjusting the fuel maps. What should the MAF voltage be like 5 or something right?? And what part of the program would show me? Now that you said something bout the MAF I remember I did clean it with brake cleaner before I put my turbo in. Maybe I messed it up. My plugs and wires are new. And I find it hard to believe my coil packs would go bad right after installing my turbo. (I run a complete oem MSP kit with 40k and the addition of a fmic and ss afc) It just sucks to have a nasty tune but not really be able to enjoy it.

but anyways about your problem, I meant to quote your original question but anyways it sounds just like what happens to me sometimes, I would have thought it might be my exhaust leak because that was the only thing left that I hadn't fixed/checked, but the other day it still stuttered, did you say it lagged a little when you step on the gas hard? If so I have noticed that too, but I also see that if I look at the afr, they drop crazy rich as they switch over to open loop, I tried to drop my "over pressure" to 0 or .5, (I want to put it back down to -1 so it will switch over faster, like I had it before) but anyways that might be the reason why if when you step on the gas hard it happens, not sure how to get around that, maybe more tuning mightt help.. maybe, I know that when my brother had his 440cc injectors in it just lagged a TON, at least when he first stepped on the gas hard.

but also if you notice it lagging when you only do partial or 3/4 throttle, I notice that I do this a lot mainly because I don't really feel the need to put the stress on my engine every time I want some fun accelerating and boost lol.. at least not every time :D , but anyways if it is at all cold or cool, or actually even when it isn't I noticed that the car or ecu almost fumbles between wanting to go into boost and not into boost, and if I don't push the gas pedal in enough it will kinda just sit on the line as if asking "what's it gonna be, you want to go or not, make up your damn mind".... this may all be in my head but I notice it time and time again, and the only thing I can think of is the ecu maps are just made like that, it is the msp, with that said, a good, and car specific tune will help that out a great deal, as will weather conditions,

I am sorry I don't really have a direct answer to your problem, but i personally believe that your might be experiencing msp quarks to some degree, and working on the tune (I've spent hours and hours screwing around with the tune, it's fun at least for the first couple hours, so than I just go home and do it again another day), a suggestion that might help is just record the temp out that day when you do your datalogging and tuning, and when it is cold or really hot, note that down, I would go for a temp that is in the middle of when you drive it the most, like I have a fall/early spring tune for when it's around 45(night)-65 out, and then a summer tune when it's from 60(night)-100 out, just make sure they are labeled on the tune.

so with all of that said, sorry for the long ass story, but I am just trying to say I don't think it is really any one thing (at least from what I can tell, and from my experience) but more just something that will become less noticeable with more engine power and more mods that decrease the stock control over the engine and it's power and the mods you put on.. just my 2cents, hope this helps a tiny bit
 

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