AFC-SplitSecond PSC1 Map Library

[SLC-MSP]

^^^ Yeah, I was going to ask for some clarification on that too, John. Let's say a current cell value is 9.8. When you say a 10% reduction, are you saying to reduce that cell value by .98 (which would make it 8.8 rounded) - or - are you saying to reduce it to 9.7?

Thanks.

 

[sandspeed]

SLC-

I run the SuperStock map w/ TBE, FMIC and K&N. It pegs rich at part throttle and when first going WOT, before it slowly leans out to ~11.8:1. It sounds like you need to start leaning out the map from ~3000rpms+. The FMIC map only leans the midrange out a tad compared to the SuperStock map, and in your case it appears not enough.

You should not be running rich until boost starts to build though.

I agree, my afc (superstock map) runs really weird sometimes. It depends upon how much throttle i use before going into boost but, it tends to peg 10 afr before even going into boost. However, If i go half throttle around 3000rpm or higher the afrs hit 11.9 and hold there perfectly through the entire powerband. I guess I need a little more tuning.
Also, when i'm crusing in 5th gear at around 50mph , the afr go crazy sometimes. Note, that I'm very light throttle and the afrs bounce from 15.0 down to 11.5, it feels like the car slows down for a second. Anyone know about this or a way to fix it??

 

[DSMConvert]

Hehe hmm seems what makes sense in my head loses everyone else...at the top of the fuel map screen there is a feature which allows you to apply macro changes to the whole sheet all at once(which is where th 10% comes from)...I usually use this feature(carefully of course) to kind of ballpark in on a decent tune, then fine tune it by adjusting each individual cell as needed to zero in a perfect a/f curve...by 10% yes I mean 9.8 becomes 9.7 or 9.9 depending on which way you need to go...did that make sense or lose everyone again?

sand to fix your issue you can adjust the partial throttle and condition parameters...in stock form the afc is designed to kick in at around 1psi...that is it doesn't begin altering the signal till is sees atleast 1lb of boost...which if you are very light throttle might cause the afc to just between "on" and "off"...i would set this value to -1psi and it should solve your problem. In that same screen you'll notice that you can also set it for a pair of conditions..ie a min boost and a min rpm....depending on twitchy you are on the throttle you might want to set it to the dual conditions..

 

[Earful]

Mucho Gracioso.......let the tuning begin.........

 

[SLC-MSP]

Indeed! I built two maps (using stock map as a base) today while I was supposed to be working; subtracted .1 from all values on the first map and .2 from all values on the second. I'm interested to see just how much fuel I have to pull at this elevation to get it right. Snow in the forecast for the next few days so it'll be a while before I can do a proper road test. I'll keep you posted.

 

[SLC-MSP]

OK, after a couple weeks of fighting with snow and a boost leak, I have a pretty good fmic map for my high elevation. Just for the curious people out there, I had to reduce cell values across the entire range by .7 compared to the fmic map that's already posted. Now I have mid-to-high 11's at peak boost, trailing back toward mid 11's at redline. Pulls like mad, fun to drive, I love it!

 

[CustomMSP]

OK I've been having the same problem again for the for the last few days! The AFRs are either very rich or very lean. The only way I could get the car to drive and not bog is if I feather the throttle and not apply more than about 10% throttle. Anything more and the afrs go off the charts lean and the car bogs. Any less throttle and the afrs are off the charts rich and the car bogs as well. This happens after long drives (~25mins or more) The car would not idle either as it's way too rich when I go to start it. It would just start and die. I would have to let it sit for a bit before it would start. Bypassing the AFC with a 'no change' map seemed to solved the problem.

It would really suck if the engine blows up with me just cruising you know hehe. If it blows while I'm beating on it then I'd understand that lol.

I'm running the superstock map.
FMIC with blow by maf
catless exhaust
VTCS-less intake manifold
Major Exhaust leaks after the O2 sensor but before the turbo

Thanks.

 

[tallrd]

have you pulled out your secondary O2 sensor and looked at it lately? Sounds like a likely cause b/c I had the same thing but w/ CEL and that was the culpret. Wouldn't suprise me if your CEL might come on soon if not already.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Sorry guys, I'm confused here. I'm gonan be running with a brand new engine since I blew mine, so I wanna break it in before I get it "oficially" tuned. I'm gonna be staying below 5psi during break in. Can I jsut use the "supermap" to get me up and running for the first 1500 miles, and then get a custom tune done? Btw, my goal is 14psi daily, and 18 at the track.

 

[CustomMSP]

have you pulled out your secondary O2 sensor and looked at it lately? Sounds like a likely cause b/c I had the same thing but w/ CEL and that was the culpret. Wouldn't suprise me if your CEL might come on soon if not already.

So wait, a bad secondary O2 sensor could cause this? I wonder why...

I forgot to mention that I'm not running a secondary O2 sensor. My wideband sensor is in it's place.

 

[tallrd]

I'm not saying that's the problem, but it's certainly a valid explanation for what you are experiencing.

When cold, my car started fine. Driving it until it's warm and then shutting down to come back to it still warm (like when doing errands or something) resulted in really rough idling like it was way to rich, but then it would run fine under throttle and load. Keep in mind, I *might* be lean at throttle b/c I don't have a W/B o2 like you do so I wouldn't know (yikes, I know). That's the only difference I see between yours and mine other than my CEL came on 100-150 miles after this started happening. Secondary o2 was the culpret. It's worth checking your sensor just to see what kind of condition it's in.
I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase, but it's worth a look just to eliminate it as a possibility.

 

[CustomMSP]

I'm not saying that's the problem, but it's certainly a valid explanation for what you are experiencing.

When cold, my car started fine. Driving it until it's warm and then shutting down to come back to it still warm (like when doing errands or something) resulted in really rough idling like it was way to rich, but then it would run fine under throttle and load. Keep in mind, I *might* be lean at throttle b/c I don't have a W/B o2 like you do so I wouldn't know (yikes, I know). That's the only difference I see between yours and mine other than my CEL came on 100-150 miles after this started happening. Secondary o2 was the culpret. It's worth checking your sensor just to see what kind of condition it's in.
I don't want to send you on a wild goose chase, but it's worth a look just to eliminate it as a possibility.

I hear ya. You would definitely know if your engine is running over 14 afr though. So I don't think you were experiencing the same problem which is a good thing. My secondary O2 is completely disconnected and I've had a CEL for it for a long time, way before the AFC.

I'm actually replacing my cracked exhaust manifold right now. Hopefully the car will be much better afterwards.

 

[CustomMSP]

I ended up disconnecting the AFC just for testing purposes. I haven't had the problem since. I'm not sure why the afc is not liking my car??

 

[MZ ZOOM]

i need some help guys. i have been running the supermap for awhile and it runs great...i just installed some 440cc injectors yesterday and its running really rich now. so when ever i go into WOT it bogs down..so i cant get into boost. so i uploaded the 440cc map in and it gets worse...i have 3" j-pipe back apexr1 exhaust with out cats. with non-fouler. more aggresive twiggy cams. PG intake mani. perrin FMIC. running 9psi with the spring trick. i dont have a wideband, only those regular A/F ratio guage. and it does show me going rich when i go WOT. my AEM wideband should be here by next week. but for the time being what should i do? any help would be great.(smash)

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Just tune the supermap yourself to get your AFRs where you want.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

Okay, so I'm using the MSP 14psi map cause my car is modded all to hell... Anyways, around 3000 RPM, as the boost raises from 4-6 psi I lean out. My boost is locked on 7psi for the time being while I break it in. Anyways (oh ya, I'm running 440's too..) At 7 psi my AFR's are right around 13-12 but in that "grey zone" they lean out to like 15 until I'm at 7psi. So my cell values are at like 8.8 (440's remember) so if I want to richen it up, would I change the cells to like 9.0, or 8.6?

Tuning is kinda fun actually lol!

 

[CustomMSP]

Guys make sure that the wires are soldered into the stock wiring harness. I believe my problems are all related to wiring issues.

 

[Knox Joe]

I used butt-connectors and all was good.

 

[tallrd]

Anyone know if there is a newer version of the R4 software which can run on Vista? I picked up a new laptop and want to load it in, but I don't want to mess anything up with the OS or R4.

 

[Maxx Mazda]

I just installed the R4 on the CD it came with on Vista and it worked flawlessly.