? About changing all the brake pads on a 2003.5

YayArea420

Member
:
2003.5 Titanium Grey
I am changing both the front and the rear brake pads this weekend and I need to know if there is anything I need to know about doing them. I have only done brakes on old school muscle cars and new model American cars.

Is it roughly the same or very different?
Do I need any special tools?

I read on these forums about an allen screw that you have to loosen on the rear brakes. Do MSP's have these or do only MP3's have these?

How long should I expect it to take? I have bulit 2 cars from the body up, so I feel I am pretty good at doing this kind of work.

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do it right. Thanks in advance for your help.

-Eric
 
For the fronts you will need an allen wrench set, preferable a socket type. Or one with a long handle. Also, some hightemp grease and some rags to clean and regrease the slides. Took me about 30 minutes total to do the fronts. But, take your time and do it right. The springs, shims etc are similar to most cars, if you have done a brake job before you won't have any trouble.
 
I had my new axxis metalmaster pads and rotoworks rotors done at meineke for $160....I got suckered!
 
The brakes were really easy to do. I don't think anyone should pay to have these done. It took me about 3 hours, but I had lunch after I did the fronts. It was honestly as easy as installing my intake.
 
Well, the guys at Meineke got it done in less than 30 minutes. It's nice to have two people, a lift and the right tools at your disposal. They made it look uber-easy.
 
mspdfreak said:
Well, the guys at Meineke got it done in less than 30 minutes. It's nice to have two people, a lift and the right tools at your disposal. They made it look uber-easy.

Oh yeah the lift would have made it a lot easier. The hardest part was probably getting the car on jack stands and that just took a little bit of time.
 
mspdfreak said:
I had my new axxis metalmaster pads and rotoworks rotors done at meineke for $160....I got suckered!

Did your pads make a rubbing sound against the rotors? I just put in the same setup and it is making some noise during low speed driving, curious if this is normal.
 
dirtysouth_msp said:
Did your pads make a rubbing sound against the rotors? I just put in the same setup and it is making some noise during low speed driving, curious if this is normal.
They did for a little while, but it either went away or I've gotten used to it. I felt the front rotors after driving a bit, and they weren't overly hot, so I'm not worried. They sure as hell work great, though!
 
So for the rears? I am looking at all these posts and no one has said you need this: for the rears... I am trying to get the stuff together to do them and I would like to have it all laid out.

I think I have the fronts handled, I have done fronts before but this whole e-brake and twisting the caliper adjustment screw is getting confusing... What is all this? I thought the e-brake is self calibrating and so shouldnt it be a simple as taking the old pads out opening the caliper and putting the new ones in???

Please advise...
 
JMS'sMSP said:
So for the rears? I am looking at all these posts and no one has said you need this: for the rears... I am trying to get the stuff together to do them and I would like to have it all laid out.

I think I have the fronts handled, I have done fronts before but this whole e-brake and twisting the caliper adjustment screw is getting confusing... What is all this? I thought the e-brake is self calibrating and so shouldnt it be a simple as taking the old pads out opening the caliper and putting the new ones in???

Please advise...

You do have to twist the piston to get it back in. The piston itself looks weird. There are 2 "V" grooves in it and they are set up like this (><) and you have to get something that can clamp onto the most middle point. I used some needle nose pliers. You have to twist, while pushing it in for it to go in.

When you take the top caliper bolt out you can just swivel the top part of the caliper to reveal the pads. But in order to be able to swivel it far enough to get the pads out you have to take out the clip that holds the brake line to the shock. I think I also disconnected the ebrake line fron the caliper, but I am not sure.

When you install your pads you will notice a pertruding bump on the back of you pad in the center. You will have to line the "V" groove up with that bump or you will not be able to get the caliper bolt back in.

When you take it apart, please take everything off slowly because there are these metal clips that go into your pads. When I took mine off I moved it too fast and the metal things shot out like a spring and it took me at least 45 minutes to find it. They aren't very big.

I hope this helps a bit. It seems hard, but when you get down there and do it, it is actually really easy.

-Eric
 
YayArea420 said:
I hope this helps a bit. It seems hard, but when you get down there and do it, it is actually really easy.

-Eric


Thanks man! I appreciate the help.. I am sure once I get in there I will see what you are talking about.
 
JMS'sMSP said:
Thanks man! I appreciate the help.. I am sure once I get in there I will see what you are talking about.

You will definitely need a set of allen wrenches. You need a pretty big one to get the caliper bolt off. And make sure you have a socket set as well. You probably have both of these, but I know you will need them both. Just giving you a heads up. The caliper bolts are on there really tight.
 
if anyone is interested I have the service manual on the msp and can give you a pdf file that shows all about the brakes.

How to remove and install pads,rotors, bleed the brakes...everyting...


send me an email and i will attach it and send it back

jsilver123@comcast.net
 
Just a question on the side, after u guys change ur pads does the ABS kicks in really bad. i know the ABS is too sensitive to begin with but does it get worse, better or the same. I am considering changing pads due to autoXing but the ABS is really ticking me off coz it kicks in when i try to hard brake the car. Does anyone have a solution to this or is pulling the fuse the only answer??
 

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