88 RX7 FC Turbo overheat warning chime alarm buzzer CPU disable problems

Really not having much luck finding anything related to this specific issue- so if this has been addressed before, please direct me to the appropriate link.

I have an 88 FC turbo that I've recently had tuned at the shop after getting it a new starter. It had been running really rich and misfiring. It still runs a little rich, but it doesn't misfire as much anymore. The injectors checked fine. Sparks good- airflow as well as can be without a cold air intake, etc.

I'll be driving it and for no apparent reason I can determine, a constant, high-pitched, chime/alarm/buzzer will sound from somewhere in the dash. It will go on for a while and then sometimes it will turn off, and sometimes it will stay on until I shut down the car (or get aggravated to the point that I pull the meter and room fuses from the box...the only certain way to disable it I know). If I pull one fuse, sometimes it'll shut down for a while and then come back on later, same if I pull the Other fuse first (both 7.5ers) If I pull them both out though- I have neither heaters nor meters...which is not as aggravating as this constant high-pitched noise- but still not comfortable either.

There are no other indications that anything has changed when this happens. no temp gauge difference, no dash-lights... the seat belt alarm, for the record, also makes an annoying noise after a while whether I use seat-belts or not--- but it's more intermittent, less loud, and less annoying overall. (although if anyone can tell me how to disable it as well, great)

I haven't found anything like this in the Hayes manual...

I've read about CPUs and cold solders going bad... but I'm not sure if that applies to this particular symptom.

Now- when I had it at the local import shop being tuned and I asked them to check it out- they said it seemed to be some kind of floor over-heating warning, like around the pre-cat. This would make sense to me, as the pre-cat was stock and pretty gummed up after running rich for so long- and the rest of the exhaust is a high-flo cat into a 3" pipe all the way back. They recommended replacing the pre-cat and they refused to disable any potential safety mechanisms. (like in case of fire)
... my passengers haven't noticed it getting particularly warm down there, but who knows.

So I took it to my local muffler guy and we knocked out the pre-cat's guts and basically transformed it into a down-pipe instead of putting in a more restrictive, though legal, pre-cat... He assured me it would help with the overheating because it was all behind the O2 sensor and would heat up less than a cat... and well, since then the alarm would come on more immediately when I start up the car, as opposed to after driving it a while or commuting, but then it would kind of shut up after a little while.

Lately, though- and the reason I'm just trying to get it turned off somehow-
it comes on all the time, anytime, with no warning and no logical pattern.

If it seems like I should spring for a new pre-cat, fine- but I want to know that would solve the problem and not just be more money down the drain- ... either way I'd like to disable this stupid chime if there's no other reason for it-
even if I have to pull the CPU and yank the noise-maker part out... (which part is it?)

...I"m at my wits end and I have a long trip coming up. Does anyone know how I can fix this?
 
Sounds like the low coolant/oil buzzer, but I assume you've already checked coolant/oil levels? Might need to bleed the coolant system. I haven't heard of these systems failing too much and usually their going off indicates a problem.

What are you tuning with? Perhaps that is interfering with the stock system?
 
Possibly the over rev buzzer malfunctioning? I think the tach is run off the trailing coil, maybe you could disconnect it and see if the buzzer quits? (shrug)
 
I've checked the coolant before- and it even has a new water pump.
I thought of the over-rev buzzer but that's a much different sound than this.
I have the shop do the tuning...
It occurs to me I haven't checked the oil That recently- so I'll do that and get back to you, although I think it did this even when the oil was fresh...
 
You get a similar noise from the power steering system as well. Have you removed anything from there? Next time this happens, pull the harness off of the p/s computer and see if it stops.
 
I've checked the coolant before- and it even has a new water pump.
I thought of the over-rev buzzer but that's a much different sound than this.
I have the shop do the tuning...
It occurs to me I haven't checked the oil That recently- so I'll do that and get back to you, although I think it did this even when the oil was fresh...
But what are they tuning with (ie, software)? You have to have some sort of aftermarket ECU on there for them to tune...

Make sure the coolant system is properly bled as well. Excess air in the system can cause the buzzer to go off. But yeah, definitely check that oil!
You get a similar noise from the power steering system as well. Have you removed anything from there? Next time this happens, pull the harness off of the p/s computer and see if it stops.
He said the noise was constant in his first post - doesn't the P/S system beep when it detects a fault?
 
I vote coolant buzzer.

If you want to tone it down you can pull the cluster out and it is on the IC board. I believe there is 4 solders you have to remove to take the buzzer out.

-Derrick
 
the p/s would be the easiest to check since you just have to pull the clip under the steering wheel. Not saying that's it, but I had a similar problem and that was the solution.
 
Ok so I checked the oil and it's still completely full. The coolant is also full and the mechanic reported the coolant system was functioning fine.

Now- there's no aftermarket ECU on it I know of... by tuning I think they meant adjusted the timing and idle mixture after they had pulled waveforms from the injectors and put everything back together. (something I don't know?)

As for power steering, I usually do hear a kind of rattling noise when I'm turning to a certain degree-- sounds like it's coming from the rack and pinion. But the fluid's all full and the belt's tight.

P/S clip? Cluster? ... what and where are these devices and how would I refer to them in the Hayes manual?

I also called up the shop guy today and he advised me to try pulling the sensor under the carpet in the floorboards to see if that changed it... hang on...
 
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Video Link

...Ok. Unsurprisingly, my car was not cooperative. It pretended to run all normal when I went outside and started videotaping it.
I'll see if I can catch it later...
Here's the footage anyway:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIcfEFh41T0

...in Retrospect I should've went redline....Maybe next time.

...Next time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqKXp0cu_68

Ok, it's clearly not the redline sound. That's completely different. There was however a slight chirp at the end of the video that my seat-belt thing makes sometimes (even though it's unplugged) ...almost as if it were mocking my attempts to discover its secrets...

At this point I"m inclined to agree it might be the add coolant chime, kindof remembering what it sounds like in other cars I've heard it in...even though it's topped off. I've constantly been told that air in the coolant will work itself out- is that not the case?
And If I want to disable that chime... where exactly is it? Thanks for the input all.
 
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Under the dash on the driver's side, there is a little box about 4" wide with a harness clipped into it. Just pull that wiring harness and see what happens. Another thing that you can try is to pull the two wires off of the top of the radiator. And press them together. If the beep stops, that sensor is bad.

Those are the two easiest tests to do. If the p/s computer is bad, I have one for you. Just pay me the shipping and it's yours.
 
Chime caught on video

Ok, while enjoying a weekend mountain retreat I was finally able to capture the problem in action, viewable here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LgCBaTiGgw

AND here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LgCBaTiGgw

The source of the SOUND, if not the problem, is definitely the CPU.
I have since removed it and -lo and behold- one of the tab...fibulators...on the copper coils was a little corroded compared to the others- although this may not actually be the problem. In any case I've taken out the copper coils that produce the sound, only.... once I reinstalled the CPU... my turn signals no longer work. It will require further testing to ensure that the sound is no longer active... but now I'm looking for a replacement CPU if anyone has one. Stay Posted for updates.
 
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I have an rtek 2.1 ecu system that I may be parting with soon. That would be a direct ecu replacement for you.
That DOES sound cool, although I actually mean the black box cpu that just controls the hazard warnings and signal lights on the left of driverside under the dash. ... right next to the fuse box.
 
I should be tearing mine down this weekend but I am keeping all of the stuff to control the blinkers and flashers.

Look for the for sale thread soon.
 
... Ok, so for the record- if anyone wants to disable the annoying high-pitched sound in their car- open up the black CPU box by the fuse box under the drivers' side and unsolder the two nibs that hold in place a small black cylinder. That is the noise-maker. The copper-bound rolls that are also on the circuit-board are used to manipulate the signals- Not make noises, according to my experiments, despite the fact they resemble a similar configuration to the horn noise-maker.
 
Sensors

It can be a broken sensor. One is directly on top of the radiator if it is broken it will chime. Check the coolant temp sensor to see if it is faulty. May be the oil level and oil pressure sensor... If it is broken it will chime. Start there first. Try grounding them with a power probe or do a multimeter resistance check. And if not the I don't know :)
 

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