88 front bumper swap(s)(mazda noob!!!)
- Thread starter 323b6t
- Start date
yeah thats it. Still stuck? If so I'll dig out the manual and scan it.
Here's teh only pic I could find of the aussie bumpers, bad ass.
Yea I'm still stuck
does the bitten bolts in the bracket need to come out too?
I'm stumped and super irritated
Did you pry the head a little bit from the block? If you have all head bolts off, both manifolds un bolted (I.E. exhuast from head and intake from brace), then you shouldn't be catching on anything.... unless you didnt take the timing belt off yet. 
Did you pry the head a little bit from the block? If you have all head bolts off, both manifolds un bolted (I.E. exhuast from head and intake from brace), then you shouldn't be catching on anything.... unless you didnt take the timing belt off yet.
Yea all the head bolts are out and the exhaust Mani is off and the intake mani ir loose from the bracket and lol I did take the timing belt off
but I guess I'll just get a super the screw driver and pry it loose...even tho I've tugged on both of the motor hoist mounts w/ some chain...
I think chuck Norris was holding on to it but it off finaly
thanks to all who gave advise along the way
I'll keep updating as I upgrade
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the pic of the studs only 8.
is the pic not accurate?
and is the kit w/ the washers and nuts a better
buy?(help)
( so far I've only reuse the bolts and now im looking to upgrade
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The pictures are some from ARP. The part is the correct one for the B6T engine with the correct amount of parts.
Check the price on the Mazda head bolts. If I remember correctly the ARP are not much more than the stock parts.
-Derrick
why is one more than the other?(uhm)
and when i said ive only resued oem bolts i ment in my short lived honda engine build
so my arp studs came in and i know the head side has the alen wrench hole in the top of it and all but on the small install info slip that came in the arp box said put the studs in hand tight. Personally that makes no sense.
Why wouldnt i just go ahead and tighten all ten of the down the work from there?
is there a trick to getting dust out of the oil and water jackets in the block?
or just drive it for a hour+ then just change the oil and flush the water out?
but on a good note i have located a imark rs front bumper for only 50$(eekdance),
im waiting on a shipping cost reply then its only uphill from there ( i hope)
idk if im either going to put it on or just trade it for a local gt front that is on a car down here
Why wouldnt i just go ahead and tighten all ten of the down the work from there?
is there a trick to getting dust out of the oil and water jackets in the block?
or just drive it for a hour+ then just change the oil and flush the water out?
but on a good note i have located a imark rs front bumper for only 50$(eekdance),
im waiting on a shipping cost reply then its only uphill from there ( i hope)
idk if im either going to put it on or just trade it for a local gt front that is on a car down here
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is the VW MK2 Golf Front Bumper i direct fit?
V V V V V
is this a direct fit? like bolt on fit without any major mods?
They don't need to be bottomed out in the hole to be effective. The head bolts don't bottom out (you wouldn't be able to get it tight). If it says hand tight, do it; and thats probably barely in contact with the bottom. I doubt all the holes aren't the same depth anyway. As long as there is about an inch of threads in the block they should be plenty strong enough.
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I asked the same thing but I took my bumper off and looked at a spare mkII bumper at my neighbors house there is a few mounting holes you need to modify(cuting and welding required)
ok so the motor is almost buttoned back up and ready to crank.
except for a few things here and there
if yall could help it would be greatly appreciated
i know this came of the intake mani but i dont know where and what its for..... it broke the connection on the block when the head was coming off
and for this oil return?
idk if i lost the bolt or whatever but i cant seem to find what size i need.... and if i do need to go and buy one does it need to be a special one due to it being attached to a oil return?... like have a hole in it?
except for a few things here and there
if yall could help it would be greatly appreciated
i know this came of the intake mani but i dont know where and what its for..... it broke the connection on the block when the head was coming off
and for this oil return?
idk if i lost the bolt or whatever but i cant seem to find what size i need.... and if i do need to go and buy one does it need to be a special one due to it being attached to a oil return?... like have a hole in it?
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ok so the motor is almost buttoned back up and ready to crank.
except for a few things here and there
if yall could help it would be greatly appreciated
i know this came of the intake mani but i dont know where and what its for..... it broke the connection on the block when the head was coming off
and for this oil return?
idk if i lost the bolt or whatever but i cant seem to find what size i need.... and if i do need to go and buy one does it need to be a special one due to it being attached to a oil return?... like have a hole in it?
The plug is the knock sensor. It is located next to the oil pressure sensor next to the starter on the back of the engine.
The bolt you need is Mazda B660-14-615 and two crush washers 9956-21-000
-Derrick
