626 Intake manifold advantage

Jo060

Member
:
2015
I've read quite a few people mention that they installed a 626 intake manifold, what is the advantage to this? I'm assuming better flow?

This mani's are a dime a dozen, so I was wondering if it would be better to pick up a 626 mani or an MSP specific mani?

Also, is it a direct replacement or is there more needed? And which years fit



EDIT: I came across http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...fold-Comparison-Thread&highlight=626+manifold and it looks like anything 2000+ fits.
 
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Its a better design over stock that has nothing restricting it like the stock butterflies.
 
Sounds good to me.
Is it a straight forward install or are extra parts required? Does it bolt right up?
 
You can always take the stock mani and remove the vts/vtcs butterflies and port it out like I did. It takes a little power away from low end but it gives a lot of top end torque. When I say a lot I mean it feels like vtec for that motor. Not that I like honda but a good vtec feels good.
 
Only disadvantage for me, dyno tested.Stock mani with vtcs delete is alot better.With 626 mani I lose 10 max whp and a big 25 whp at 6000 rpm,when I switch back to stock I notice the difference and the dyno confirme my thought.
 
Save both your time and money and forget about those "mythical" advantages and don't waste either on that manifold. There's another thread on here where a guy in Florida dynoed his before and after and it made no difference. Modifying your existing manifold is a wiser choice.
 
Has anybody ever dyno'd before and after removing VTCS on a stock manifold? Just curious what the gains were.
 
I personally never dyno'd but I did notice a slight difference after 4500 RPM with the 626 IM. It's not much, but the car definitely pulls harder. However, I do believe that performance wise, porting the stock manifold would probably get you in the same area as the 626.

But one other advantage the 626 has over the stock, which has actually been a blessing me multiple times, is that is frees up soooo much space. I can easily reach the oil filter, oil feed line, EGR line, EGR valve, and pretty much anything on the back of the block or under the manifold without having to get under the car. It's pretty nice to have easy access back there.
 
I personally never dyno'd but I did notice a slight difference after 4500 RPM with the 626 IM. It's not much, but the car definitely pulls harder. However, I do believe that performance wise, porting the stock manifold would probably get you in the same area as the 626.

But one other advantage the 626 has over the stock, which has actually been a blessing me multiple times, is that is frees up soooo much space. I can easily reach the oil filter, oil feed line, EGR line, EGR valve, and pretty much anything on the back of the block or under the manifold without having to get under the car. It's pretty nice to have easy access back there.

hmm. That's almost worth a few HP decrease.
 
hmm. That's almost worth a few HP decrease.

This is the first time I've heard of a decrease in power from a 626 manifold. I never believed the +24 whp ProtegeGarage claimed, but it's certainly not a loss. Unless it was a pre-2000 manifold since those runners are tiny compared to stock.
 
on a stock msp ecu is makes gains because the afr gets leaned. If you already have a proper way to modify afrs (ssafc, stand alone etc) then you wont notice much of an improvement.

for stock ecu its one of the better mods.

I had mine for a few years and liked it better than a complete stocker.
 
Does it bolt right up, or is there more needed?

For right now I'm fairly stock. Just upgraded motor mounts, CAI, Silicone hot pipe, and Forge BPV.

I plan on upgrading to a FMIC, better exhaust manifold, and mid pipe, and eventually a SSAFC. Do you think it'll be worth going with a 626 mani?
 
well here is a vid of my near stock msp with the 626 manifold on it. I run ~15 seconds on a slight uphill with stock tires, a passenger, my 2 10" woofers and box that covers the whole entrance to the trunk from the back seats, and a spare tire.

other mods are:
2.5" JPIPE, 2.5" Gutted Cat, 3" Mid Pipe, stock Mazdaspeed axleback and muffler
Stock airbox removed and replaced with cone filter. Stock intake piping remains

6 psi stock turbo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUShEBQanZA

as you can see its not a rocket ship but with more boost the IM becomes more noticeable on the stock ECU. at 6psi the afr isnt as bad as it isif you are running higher boost say 8 or 9psi and you are still on the good side of fuel cut, the AFR is very very rich. With the 626 IM you will notice the AFR is a bit better.

if i were you I wouldnt necessarily jump into buying manifolds as they are expensive/time consuming and dont show their true potential without some sort of proper tuning.

I still think the best bang for the buck is to get the basics (cold air intake, 3" turboback, FMIC good plugs, 93 gas) and then grab a set of wrx 440s, a ssafc and tune for 10psi.

even if you stay safe IE 10.5:1 afr at 10psi, the car will be much quicker.
 
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if i were you I wouldnt necessarily jump into buying manifolds as they are expensive/time consuming and dont show their true potential without some sort of proper tuning.

I still think the best bang for the buck is to get the basics (cold air intake, 3" turboback, FMIC good plugs, 93 gas) and then grab a set of wrx 440s, a ssafc and tune for 10psi.
I already have a CAI, I plan on getting a FMIC, not a full exhaust..I don't want the loud exhaust note anymore. And 93 octane is a must with these engines.
I don't think I'll be upgrading injectors, and won't mess with the boost as the engines seem to be made of paper mache.


i got a 626 intake mani for sale pm me for info..

If it's the right price I'll grab it from you. They're going for about $70-80 on Ebay.
 
unfortunately your pretty much never gonna have a fast car without higher boost. the limit to the motor is the connecting rods at 250+WHP. you wont be anywhere near that under 12psi so as long as you have proper tuning there isnt anything to fear other than wreckless driving destroying the trans/lsd. correct me if im wrong but ive been here a while and never seen a PROPERLY tuned and monitored FS blow under 250whp. Ive seen lots of people (including myself) do a half assed job and blow a motor, but nobody with a wideband, injectors and fuel control under 250whp.

but if you wanna buy mods anyways ill sell u a 626 mani for $80 + shipping, though a $1 boost controller will make the same difference in power and be just as safe providing you have a safe afr. just fyi ;)
 
That's perfect. I'm not looking for a fast car right now, just something with a bit more pep.
I do appreciate the help. Eventually I'll upgrade even more, but not now.
 
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