60k Mile Maintenance

correction im speaking english. the gap between the sparkplug tip and the grounding electrode should be .030-.032 inches

Ok, so before we get to the part where we start picking on the guy who doesn't work on cars. I plan on having whatever shop/mechanic I take it to change the sparkplugs. Do I need to tell them what gap I want?
 
Ok, so before we get to the part where we start picking on the guy who doesn't work on cars. I plan on having whatever shop/mechanic I take it to change the sparkplugs. Do I need to tell them what gap I want?

lol no picking. yes tell the shop you want the sparkplugs gapped to thirty to thirty two thousanths
 
Here's some fun information... I just called two of my local dealerships for price quotes on 60k tune ups. And received two separate stories. One said the Timing chain should last the duration of your engine, spark plugs aren't due until 75k, and they can do a strip test to let me know if my fluids are still good or need to be replaced. This guy seemed pretty sincere and it sounded like he was on the level, not shady or anything. So basically at this dealership, I would only need Oil change, Brake service, Coolant flush and replace cabin air filter. All that for $330... (dunno) What's worse, is this is was the lesser of two evils. The other dealership just rambled off a bunch of numbers (somewhere around $500-600) and when I asked for a e-mail of everything he just said, he started to backtrack. So now that I know what really needs to be done, I'm thinking of searching craigslist for out of work mechanics. Maybe if I provide the supplies I can get him to do the labor on the cheap.
 
lol. dont use additives in the tank, use the seafoam.

This car has direct injection, not port injection. so all those advertisements from shell and bp cleaning the backs of the valves doesnt apply to us. fuel is sprayed directly into the combustion chamber (hence DI) instead of in the intake manifold (PI) like many other cars, so theres no way for the cleaning agents to get behind the valves

so how does the carbon buildup get on the back of the valves to begin with? is it from the pcv system? cus if it is then shouldn't fuel additives work since pcv is recirculating fuel vapors back to the intake? jus tryin to understand how the DI engine works cus i use fuel treatment every now and then even tho manual says not to
 
I just did a 60k service, I replace all the fluids and sparkplugs, did the usual grease, all that's left is the cabin filter.
 
so how does the carbon buildup get on the back of the valves to begin with? is it from the pcv system? cus if it is then shouldn't fuel additives work since pcv is recirculating fuel vapors back to the intake? jus tryin to understand how the DI engine works cus i use fuel treatment every now and then even tho manual says not to

its from the PCV and the EGR. both of which recirculate air filled with blowby products and exhaust crud back into the intake manifold. an oil catch can will help catch the stuff coming from the PCV. any fuel cleaners are burned up and useless by the time they recirculate back into the intake.
 
seafoam is a diy thing. theres some how to's on here

Where is this DIY located? I searched the "how-to" section and couldn't find it. Can anybody post the link? I just want to make sure I go through the right steps...so far I'm planning to do 1/2 in the fuel tank, 1/2 in the engine oil, but it appears some people like to do 1/3's and enter the vac line as well?

Thanks!
 
NEVER, EVER let Jiffy Lube even look at your car!!! Demand they turn away when you drive by.

You may not need the dealer... Most of it's just maintenance. I'll be there in another six years or so (15K now and almost two years old).
 
its from the PCV and the EGR. both of which recirculate air filled with blowby products and exhaust crud back into the intake manifold. an oil catch can will help catch the stuff coming from the PCV. any fuel cleaners are burned up and useless by the time they recirculate back into the intake.

oh i see. is a catch can a pretty straight forward install or is any fabrication required?
 
Just called to get prices on most of this stuff from mazda and they said "you don't have to change plugs until 110,000 miles". I said "ok?". I looked again in the manual and it states "w/turbo charger, change plugs at 60,000 miles". I called back and they said there are no plugs, "they are called coils and you don't have to change them until at least 75,000 miles".

WTF?

Is it hard to change plugs on these? I'm going to do all this s*** myself...
 
Just called to get prices on most of this stuff from mazda and they said "you don't have to change plugs until 110,000 miles". I said "ok?". I looked again in the manual and it states "w/turbo charger, change plugs at 60,000 miles". I called back and they said there are no plugs, "they are called coils and you don't have to change them until at least 75,000 miles".

WTF?

Is it hard to change plugs on these? I'm going to do all this s*** myself...

not really:

1. take off intercooler cover (2 10mm bolts)
2. loosen clamps for the boost tubes on intercooler (worm clamps, one at the front the other at the back by the firewall)
3. Disconnect recirc tube and vacuum tube from BPV
4. remove 3 nuts holding IC to engine
5. Remove intercooler, cold pipe and BPV as 1 large assembly
6. using 8mm ratchet, loosen screws holding ignitors to valvecover
7. remove wiring harness from igniters
8. remove ignitors
9. use sparkplug tool on extended ratchet to remove plugs
10. reinstall in reverse order
 
Just called to get prices on most of this stuff from mazda and they said "you don't have to change plugs until 110,000 miles". I said "ok?". I looked again in the manual and it states "w/turbo charger, change plugs at 60,000 miles". I called back and they said there are no plugs, "they are called coils and you don't have to change them until at least 75,000 miles"...
Brilliant, just brilliant. Maybe "the dealer" should be added to the "stay away" list along with Jiffy Lube. Amazing how too many "technicians" haven't a clue about the internal combustion engine.
 
Yea, it took me about 30 minutes. This car has been very kind to me when working on it.

8.5ms3's steps are dead on.

BTW I do not recommend the bosch iridiums. My car seems to have even more of a problem with hesitation since I put them in.
 
Just called to get prices on most of this stuff from mazda and they said "you don't have to change plugs until 110,000 miles". I said "ok?". I looked again in the manual and it states "w/turbo charger, change plugs at 60,000 miles". I called back and they said there are no plugs, "they are called coils and you don't have to change them until at least 75,000 miles".

WTF?

Is it hard to change plugs on these? I'm going to do all this s*** myself...

Some Mazda mechanics are Graduates of the Jiffy Lube School of wrench twirling
 
Thank you guys.

It's funny too that they said, "yeah, the person that I was just talking to about your car has the exact same one"...

Makes no sense
 
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