600$ for Brakes!!!

Didnt mazda source the brakes for this car off of a volvo of some sort? When I used to be a tech for volvo, we would never turn the rotors. They would wear down without warping. All we did was change the pads until the rotors went out of spec then change them. Regardless, unless its pulsating, just change the pads yourself and save 525 bucks!
 
Well you should resurface so you remove the grooves out of the discs. This will help your pads wear eveninly as well. Im going with Ferodo brake pads myself. Once you use Ferodo, there's nothing else that can match their stopping power. Of course, having some slotted rotors doesnt hurt.
 
The dealer is getting a minimum of 1.8 hrs per axle so at 95 an hour that 350. OEM pads are probably pricey also so 600 seems logical. I would never use autozone pads or cheap stuff like that. EBC stuff is ok so try them. You should remove the rotors. Most auto parts places can turn them for a few bucks. I know EBC has that break in coating but its bs. Spend the money turn the rotors and do it right. As for bleeding you can skip that. Use the old pads and a c clamp to compress the front calipers gently! The rears may need a special tool to spin the piston in while pressing. Its a cheap tool so pick it up when you drop off the rotors to be turned. If the rear caliper pistons have 2 or 4 notches on the pad mating surface you need the rear caliper spin in compressor tool. It is pretty straight forward and it should only take an afternoon to do right.
 
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I know Porterfield and PBR make pads that are nearly dustless, but the last time i looked, they were only available for the RX-8.

Ferodo are dust monsters, but they stop better than anthing you could get for a stock setup. They only make rears at this time.

I called my bud over at Raceshopper and he told me that the Hawk HPS are low dust for the MS3. He gave me the prices of Front $72 and Rear $58. You can hit their site at www dot raceshopper dot com and they can fix you up. Been doing business with these guys and they are fantastic and QUICK at shipping. Hope this helps you out.
 
Thanks alot Hal and Craig. I have already purchased the EBC for 124.00 dollars. 58 for the rear and 64 for the front. So now just need a clamp for the caliper. I will be taking your advice with regard to turning the rotors. Just going to have to do two at a time since I only have two stands...

******* dealers, amazing, I feel sorry for the people who actually pay that crap.
 
Whats funny is, I asked the dealer how much to turn the rotors and put the pads I bought. They said 140 each front rotors and back. So 280. Wow...
 
Yea, this kind of stuff is easy. But, i will gurantee you one thing, you will have pride in your accomplishment and gain more confidence with doing other maintence or upgrade components in the future. If you get stuck, just post up and we will help you out. Be sure to get that Caliper tool, its quick and painless that way!

This is my first Mazda, but see if you have dust seals on the rotor. if you do, you will need to remove them with a brass punch and hammer, otherwise, they will charge you for new ones. It also wouldnt hurt to repack your wheel bearings either.
 
Dealer wants to charge me over 600$ to do both front and rear. When I called my service guy started laughing. I asked what the hell was so funny, he said "Your not going to believe this". And then told me the cost. Unbelievable. Just wanted to know if someone could please tell me how to change my own disc brakes since I will be getting the pads my self.

Thanks in advance.

you have to remove the caliper and then the pads pop off, they have clips that hold them in place...then i think you have to bleed the brake system because the piston comes out...

i havent done a ms3 yet. bennets auto charges 50 bucks for all pads......fronts and rears
 
I don't think you have to bleed the brakes...thats what the clamp if for. To depress the piston back into place. Thats what I did with my m3. So I am assuming its the same gig.
 
yea, i had it confused with a few times that we did brakes and bled the system at the same time. shouldnt be too hard tho and for 600 dollars...lol
 
I could be wrong here but I seem to remember doing brake jobs without bleeding at all just never crack open the bleeder things and do it dry.
 
make sure to take the cap off of your fluid resevior before compressing the pistons in.
 
This isn't a 2wd ford truck??? the bearings are hubs and non servicable.

Trucks arent the only things that have wheel bearings Craig. Like i said, this is my first Mazda, but i cant see having non servicable wheel bearings on the hubs!
 
Trucks arent the only things that have wheel bearings Craig. Like i said, this is my first Mazda, but i cant see having non servicable wheel bearings on the hubs!

Most small cars have been on sealed bearings since the 80's. You may be right I haven't had mine appart, but working on cars for 8 years I can count on one hand how many small cars have packable wheel bearings.

As for taking off the master cylinder cap when you compress the calipers it isn't a bad idea. If you never added brake fluid you will have no mess to clean up and the cap[ being off is a moot point.
 

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