40mph wicked vibration

C

cbea1124

Member
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02 Mazda Protege5
40 mph wicked vibration...everything shakes at 40 mph...as I increase speed the vibration lessens but the highway road noise is louder but at same time seems to thud as it spins during the rotation.

1. I replaced 4 new tires today. (205/55/r16) under 35 it sounds fine...n quiet.

Changed front wheel bearings a year ago,


Thnx
02 Protege5 Hatchback/Automatic/128,000
 
First of all, check your engine mounts. the BJ chassis has the WORST engine mount setup in automobile history. I bet $5 your rear engine mount is toast, which was the same reason my protege was vibrating at certain speeds.

Your wheel bearings may be bad again. It's not hard to screw up wheel bearings on these cars. I paid a local shop to do mine (and got ripped)....they replaced both fronts, I was back a week later because of excessive noise in the front due to another bad passenger wheel bearing. I know they replaced it because i watched them do it, but having to use a press can screw things up easily.

Last thing...did they check to see if the wheels weren't bent/warped? they're aluminum wheels so easy to screw up!
 
Wait! You just changed tires and now it vibrates at hwy speeds - take it back! They messed up the balance or sold you an out-of-round tire...
 
I find P5 are problematic suspension wise. But definately check the wheels and tires first! See if it vibrates while coasting.
 
Part II/40 mph wheel vibes

Part II
My brother looked at why my tire seemed to vibrate n wheel kind hoped...loud than usual road noise also.
There are A & B, Part A broke right near the green part that is Circled in red A part.
PicA.JPG


Part A broke right near the green part
http://www.mazdas247.com/members/cbea1124/pic1.JPG

Alternate views
Pic 2
Pic2.jpg

Pic 3
http://www.mazdas247.com/members/cbea1124/Pic 3.jpg

I've been looking for the part and the names can be confusing so I wanted to ask
What are A & B Part names?
The part that broke in half Part A circled in red....Can I just replace that part? or do I have replace whole A part?

I just want to make sure I get the right part and not spend more than I need.

These parts were taken off the front of the car.
02 P5/Automatic/Hatchback

Thnaks
 
There are three shafts there.... near the letter A is the intermediate drive shaft or sometimes called jack shaft. The assembly comes as the shaft bearing and bracket as one piece usually. From the green part to the other end, and B .. are the right and left drive shaft assemblies.. made up of shaft, constant velocity joints, boots, etc. the rubber parts like where your blue arrow points to are vibration dampeners ...

the A part or intermediate shaft looks intact.. what broke is actually the passenger side drive shaft. (i think i got the side right) the left and right drive shafts are typically just bought/replaced as rebuilt assemblies. the intermediate one seems to rarely fail and typically only available from the dealer...
 
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cbea1124 said:
Is this the part I need?
Should I just replace left & right cv joints...?

https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
Click to expand...

Those are full drive shaft assemblies with cv joints...they are for manual transmissions and I think you have automatic so not quite... I think the automatic ones are slightly different lengths. Also, ebay stuff might not be very good... I would Go to your local auto parts store (napa, autozone, o'reilly or whatever, call around for quotes) and get the specific one that broke... compare its length to the broken one you are replacing before you put it all back in incase they give you the wrong part.

Not sure if there really was a problem there or not that warrants replacing the shaft...

Did you rip the boot at that inner joint by pulling the shaft out without popping it apart with a pry bar at the intermediate shaft bearing? Just a guess since it looks like that connection has not been broken... that and how the boot on the inner joint seems to have ripped... that joint is supposed to slide in and out and just pulling the shaft directly out without breaking that connection at the bracket/bearing will probably rip that joint/boot apart.
 
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cbea1124 said:
Is this the part I need?
Should I just replace left & right cv joints...?
Click to expand...

Be Careful,... As lowlevel said, the driveshaft for the drivers side manual transmission is very different.

If your parts store doesn't ask or state whether or not it's for an automatic, then stay away.

These parts are commonly available and relatively cheap.

If your car has ABS then your replacement axle will need the toothed ring,.. if it doesn't have ABS then you can install any new axle whether it has a ring or not.


driveshaft_zps9b0717f0.png



driveshaft2_zps072d9bd5.png



,... here's Rockauto's selection,..

Rockautodriveshaft2_zpsce909aac.png
 
If it were me i'd replace both drive shafts. That boot looks to me like it's been broken for a while,... there is no grease showing and the rubber edges look worn and rounded. All it takes is a tiny bit of dirt or water to get in there and the joint will fail in short order. (that's probably why it's rumbling anyway and will keep rumbling with a new boot on it.)
Replacing the boot is kind of a pain too and you're supposed to have a special tool to crimp the new boot clamp.
At $50 a shaft (less than a cost of a tank of gas) you can replace the other side too. (although if the boots show no sign of cracking then you should be fine with reusing it)

The shafts are a wear item and will probably need replacing sometime anyway.

Your joint shaft should be fine,.. there is no boot on it to fail and it isn't even available at Rockauto so that suggests to me that they are rarely replaced.
 
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Ok...I tracked 2 down in my area...(left n Right) problem is IDk if I have ABS brakes or not...I have VIN # and in back of my car I have no lx/ex/dx decal.
 
Check your shafts to see if they have that toothed ring,.. (I can't tell for sure from your picture).

If there is no ring on either shaft then you don't have ABS and ANY new shaft will work, with or without the ring.

Make sure that your new shaft for the drivers side is the proper one.

(why the hell the MTX has just one different shaft is beyond me ??)

If the non-broken axle doesn't have any cracks in the boots and is a separate trip to acquire the new one, then I'd just reuse it,...
 
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OK,.. well no ring, so any axle will do (except of course for the MTX one).

It's your call on whether or not to reuse the other one ???
 
Update CV axles

Update...
Yes, I went and replaced both for under $120 thought that was reasonable....and when I tried to test drive i drove 5 feet then I stopped and then I put in drive n pressed gas...no movement forward..tried reverse no movement backwards...it made a noise like a clutch does when ur in wrong gear.....so I put in neutral and pushed onto driveway..didn't want hurt things more then I turned it off ad left it for now..more weekend stuff to do on it....Any ideas on why it won't drive forward or reverse....transmission?
 
Oh no,...

I think that ring inside the tranny fell down

did you support it when you pulled out both axles ???
 
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