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- South Carolina
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- 21 CX-9 13 CX-5
I do engine oil every 5,000 miles with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and an OEM Mazda filter (2 stripes!)
Hitting 30k now, I also did a drain and fill on the rear end, transfer case, and transmission.
For the tranny, use Mazda Type FZ for the ATF, took about 4 quarts, and for the correct level I checked temp with my scanner, mine is an Autel MK808. It has to be at 50°C for the level to read correctly. To let the motor warm up, simply pull the bottom of the air box, leaving the top half intact. That way the PCM doesn't get confused with the lack of the MAF.
For the rear and transfer case, I used Mazda SG1. Always, ALWAYS loosen the fill plug first! Because if you open the drain plug first, and then you can't get the fill plug open, you're towing the car! I use a syringe to fill them. Between the two, it took roughly a quart and a half of gear oil. And the transfer case magnet was clean, but the rear end had just a bit of schmoo, which is normal.
Both the rear and transfer case take the same size nuts: 23mm for fill, 24mm for drain. You'll need fresh crush washers as well.
The plugs on the transfer case are easy to get to, no problem. Rear is a different story. The subframe makes getting to them kinda a pain. I used some ultra shallow sockets and were able to get them right off. Putting back on, there's no way a torque wrench is getting up in there, but again we are using new crush washers, so you'll feel when it's good anyway.
Pics:
Hitting 30k now, I also did a drain and fill on the rear end, transfer case, and transmission.
For the tranny, use Mazda Type FZ for the ATF, took about 4 quarts, and for the correct level I checked temp with my scanner, mine is an Autel MK808. It has to be at 50°C for the level to read correctly. To let the motor warm up, simply pull the bottom of the air box, leaving the top half intact. That way the PCM doesn't get confused with the lack of the MAF.
For the rear and transfer case, I used Mazda SG1. Always, ALWAYS loosen the fill plug first! Because if you open the drain plug first, and then you can't get the fill plug open, you're towing the car! I use a syringe to fill them. Between the two, it took roughly a quart and a half of gear oil. And the transfer case magnet was clean, but the rear end had just a bit of schmoo, which is normal.
Both the rear and transfer case take the same size nuts: 23mm for fill, 24mm for drain. You'll need fresh crush washers as well.
The plugs on the transfer case are easy to get to, no problem. Rear is a different story. The subframe makes getting to them kinda a pain. I used some ultra shallow sockets and were able to get them right off. Putting back on, there's no way a torque wrench is getting up in there, but again we are using new crush washers, so you'll feel when it's good anyway.
Pics:
