30,000 mile service

[markuszoom5]

Coming up in 500 miles, I need to know what I should get done at the dealer.
I don't want to be ripped off with fuel cleaner and other BS they might come up with.
I need to know what really needs to be done.
So my next oil change and tire rotation should have things such as a possible tranny flush, maybe spark plugs, and whatever else is needed.
Thanks in advance.

 

[mazdadude]

Spark plugs are IRIDIUM and don't need changing until 100k.

Cabin air filter, Engine air filter, Engine oil filter, engine oil, tire rotation, brake inspection.

 

[markuszoom5]

Thanks man

Spark plugs are IRIDIUM and don't need changing until 100k.

Cabin air filter, Engine air filter, Engine oil filter, engine oil, tire rotation, brake inspection.

Already changed the cabin air, it was a pain the the rear end. Also, changed air filter, it was easy. Tire rotation is free, as I got the tires from the dealer, so I only need the oil change I guess. Brakes still look about 60% to me.

 

[mazdadude]

Already changed the cabin air, it was a pain the the rear end. Also, changed air filter, it was easy. Tire rotation is free, as I got the tires from the dealer, so I only need the oil change I guess. Brakes still look about 60% to me.

Nice, sounds like you prefer to be ahead of schedule! With that known, you would probably feel good doing the ATF change somewhere between 30-45k depending on how it is looking/smelling. I have over 90k now on my original brakes, so if you are gentle they can go quite far.

 

[Robotazky]

If you have a manual you might want to do what we would do in order to answer your question; read it.

If you don't have one, the Mazda USA site has them available for download I'm pretty sure.

 

[Silentnoise713]

Nice, sounds like you prefer to be ahead of schedule! With that known, you would probably feel good doing the ATF change somewhere between 30-45k depending on how it is looking/smelling. I have over 90k now on my original brakes, so if you are gentle they can go quite far.

Impressive but I would think you do a LOT of highway cruising or engine braking to achieve 90K on original brakes. Without knowing how and the driving environment one use their car, I would not say OE brakes can go far. I am not very aggressive on my brakes (yes, we are not the best judge of our own character but I swear –finger crossed) but @ 45K, they were metal to metal for me. I bought the car with 24K on the ODO so I don’t know how hard those miles were. The PO was a Long Islander so it should be mostly highway/back roads, gratend my impression is that he is a very capable driver. I do think it can last longer than 45K but I would recommend checking them more often when you are in the 40-50Kish range.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123819785-OEM-front-pads-after-46K-original-miles


@OP – You cannot spot check pad life by looking at the outside/rim facing pad b/c the piston applying the pressure is on the inner side. I recommend greasing those slider pins especially since you are in a climate where changing weather (and salt) can affect life of rubber components.

Be sure to post back on your ATF change and let us know your impressions of the old vs. new stuff. Weather's been sucky lately but I look forward to nicer weather and finally getting to work the transmission service.

 

[mazdadude]

Impressive but I would think you do a LOT of highway cruising or engine braking to achieve 90K on original brakes. Without knowing how and the driving environment one use their car, I would not say OE brakes can go far. I am not very aggressive on my brakes (yes, we are not the best judge of our own character but I swear –finger crossed) but @ 45K, they were metal to metal for me. I bought the car with 24K on the ODO so I don’t know how hard those miles were. The PO was a Long Islander so it should be mostly highway/back roads, gratend my impression is that he is a very capable driver. I do think it can last longer than 45K but I would recommend checking them more often when you are in the 40-50Kish range.
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123819785-OEM-front-pads-after-46K-original-miles


@OP – You cannot spot check pad life by looking at the outside/rim facing pad b/c the piston applying the pressure is on the inner side. I recommend greasing those slider pins especially since you are in a climate where changing weather (and salt) can affect life of rubber components.

Be sure to post back on your ATF change and let us know your impressions of the old vs. new stuff. Weather's been sucky lately but I look forward to nicer weather and finally getting to work the transmission service.

Yes, salt can make a big difference! So glad I do not have to deal with that stuff. It keeps the calipers from sliding, rusts the rotors, shreds the pads, ugh!

Regarding my brake longevity; I am in a hilly area, dry climate, 50/50 mix of city/freeway, I downshift my automatic if I am going down a hill, and I lift off of the throttle to cruise as much as possible up to the lights and stop signs. Instead of using my brakes for the corner, I prefer to use my tires and suspension.

 

[acap650]

On a 2012 Sport auto, I just had a 45K done at dealer-they suggested oil&filter($55), air filter($44), tire rotation($20) and ATF service (full flush of all fluid and replace filter, since car was bought used-$230). In Pittsburgh PA.

 

[Olde English 5]

$44 for an air filter, that's pretty steep