2018 Non-Bose. Stereo Upgrade speaker advice?

Are they 300w peak or RMS. Just wondered regarding required amp and current required to supply and whether second alternator required - sorry joined forum a little late..
 
Are they 300w peak or RMS. Just wondered regarding required amp and current required to supply and whether second alternator required - sorry joined forum a little late..
It’s a 300w peak per speaker 125w rms I believe. But, this will be the second amp, I have a Skar 1500.1D (1500w rms, though amp dunk showing it puts about 1690rms) powering a 12” EVL sub in the back currently, and once I’m able to find the bracket for a second alternator I plan to step up to a Taramps Smart 5 (5k rms) and a SVXV2 18”.

I will definitely be needing the bracket.
 
Yep - I see your point - have you tried crutchfield etc for advice regarding manufacturers of upgraded alternators and wiring harnesses they may be able to lead you in the the right direction even if you do not purchase off them
 
Yep - I see your point - have you tried crutchfield etc for advice regarding manufacturers of upgraded alternators and wiring harnesses they may be able to lead you in the the right direction even if you do not purchase off them
Finding an alternator is no issue. These Mazdas use a linbus and using anything with more output than stock alternator will throw the ECU into limp mode. Only option is a custom bracket to run a SECOND alternator completely isolated from the main system to another AGM (or probably lithium in my case) that is dedicated to the amplifiers.
 
From what I read on another forum the alternator Power Bastards sells fits and works well.

 
>250A

Literally everything I've read said that you cannot go above a 200A alternator, or the PCM will freak out and throw a CEL.

I'm not saying that's true, because I've not personally tried it, but unfortunately, that seems to be the consensus.
 
>250A

Literally everything I've read said that you cannot go above a 200A alternator, or the PCM will freak out and throw a CEL.

I'm not saying that's true, because I've not personally tried it, but unfortunately, that seems to be the consensus.


This guy did it on his Mazda 3, he didn't mention having any problems.
 
From what I read on another forum the alternator Power Bastards sells fits and works well.

I can tell you firsthand this one does not work.
 
I’ve actually taken a different route at this point. I’ve ordered 48ah of headway lithium, and an Ioxus Supercap (mostly for its battery starting option in a case that the lithium over discharges and leaves me stranded) and am doing a full battery delete. Still waiting on everything to come in, but this should get me to being able to run roughly 6k watts and stay around 13V. I could probably push it to 8k if I was ok with dropping into low 12s again. Also, another upgrade on my system since the last time I checked in here.
 

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Updates: Removed my stock battery now, and am running a 4S6P Headway lithium bank (48ah) using red headway 38120 cells (24 of them) and projectdb busbars. Previously my voltage would drop into low 11s with the JP23, now my absolute lowest drops are at 12.9V and that's under heavy load (Floating at 13.3, peaking around 13.8V). This made for a HUGE upgrade as far as available power. Now looking for a way to bypass the voltage regulator so it will charge at 14.4V all the time.
 
How are you liking the Taramps? Never ran one, but I've heard people say they make a little bit of noise.
 
How are you liking the Taramps? Never ran one, but I've heard people say they make a little bit of noise.
It does what it’s supposed to, but, it’s not staying. Going with a JP34AB when they release in a few weeks. No sound quality at all at high volume from the Taramps. Their Smart Bass line for subs is next gen, but their 4 channels are meh.
 
Whenever I get around to finishing my install, I'm running a Kenwood DDX head, Helix DSP, Linear Power amps, mids and tweets, and a Sundown SD10 sub.

Linear Power is the best stuff I've ever heard, bar none. And I've attended multiple MECA/IASCA SQL World Finals, and the Linear cars are nothing short of incredible. Unfortunately, even though they've been around since 1973 (!), not a lot of people know about them though, because they are kind of a boutique brand. They will not allow their products to be sold online, only through authorized brick and mortar dealers. Also, their stuff is actually made in America. For real. Even the heatsinks and circuit boards, no lie.
 
Whenever I get around to finishing my install, I'm running a Kenwood DDX head, Helix DSP, Linear Power amps, mids and tweets, and a Sundown SD10 sub.

Linear Power is the best stuff I've ever heard, bar none. And I've attended multiple MECA/IASCA SQL World Finals, and the Linear cars are nothing short of incredible. Unfortunately, even though they've been around since 1973 (!), not a lot of people know about them though, because they are kind of a boutique brand. They will not allow their products to be sold online, only through authorized brick and mortar dealers. Also, their stuff is actually made in America. For real. Even the heatsinks and circuit boards, no lie.
I’m curious how you plan to install an aftermarket head unit into these cars? Outside of an under dash mount, I haven’t seen many options to work around out stuff out the dash top system.
 
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