2018 CX-5 liftgate not opening

Just amazing. I had the same problem and the negative terminal disconnect/reconnect fixed it! Mechanic wanted to keep the car for a few days so he could trace wiring and find the issue; got lucky that I saw this post first.
 
Late in the party, but it happened to me this week; with the extreme cold, my battery went dead (almost, just the light on the dash was ok, but the car won't start). Even with the battery full, the liftgate refused to open with the remote and the button inside. I just unplugged the negative connector, wait 3 minutes, plug it back. Magic ! It's working again. Thank you for this wonderful tip ! :)
 
Before taking it to the dealer do this. Remove the negative battery terminal and wait a few minutes then put back and tighten. Try the hatch.
That's the hatch reset.

Fixed mine and somebody else's on this forum
this worked for me as well!
 
But the vehicle continued to start and run ok, and it was only the liftgate that wasn't working? And was it a battery testing tool at a shop or parts store that showed the battery being 'dead'?
The CX-5 like many new modern cars WILL act up if the battery is below spec. Same thing on my Mazda 6. The ECU, AC, lights, sound system, navigation, BSM, throttle electronic wiring, interior lights, city braking, all sorts of electronics ect, ect all require "Clean" power.
 
You do realize that the battery was disconnected for a few minutes as the new one was installed...
Not always. Some people might have connected a parallelly battery before the bad one was removed. In that case, the liftgate did not get a chance to be reset/rebooted.
(No need to go thru re-initialization process ... windows, radio stations, etc.)

It seems that the liftgate only works when voltage is higher. Starter (and others) might continue to work as long as the electric current is large enough (cranking amp).
 
Not always. Some people might have connected a parallelly battery before the bad one was removed. In that case, the liftgate did not get a chance to be reset/rebooted.
(No need to go thru re-initialization process ... windows, radio stations, etc.)

It seems that the liftgate only works when voltage is higher. Starter (and others) might continue to work as long as the electric current is large enough (cranking amp).
Just a note that on late model corvettes, 1998-2014 and probably later years, reserve capacity of the battery is much more important than cranking amps. this is due to current drain while the car is sitting, as most of these do as a weekend and good weather drivers. It is actually somewhat difficult to obtain a battery with the reserve capacity recommended. If it sits for three weeks, it’s a chance it won’t start. And I can tell you from experience a low battery voltage causes many issues on these cars.
I assume many of recent vintage vehicles with the electronics installed now might have similar issues.
 

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Just got my car back from dealer body shop.

Someone hit and run over the hood... It took over a month for dealer to get replacement parts.

Instead of ordering replacement parts then having me bring car in...they made me drop it off then wait 45 days on parts. It was sitting a long time but they wouldn't let me back in garage to start it up as they said it the whole car was torn apart.

Finally got it back, they did excellent job on body work and paint match but now the power liftgate doesn't work. it worked before dropped it off.

They claimed "it wasn't their fault" yet I found out they disconnected the battery. They offered to take a look at it but that's more of my time taking it back.

Am going to check and replace fuse today and see if that fixes it .

Just wondering if they blew a fuse what else did they mess up with power surge.
 
Here are the fuses you will need to recycle.

I'm not sure if your 2018 has a PLG Control Module. If it does, then there will be a 20A PLG fuse in the ER fuse box. If there's no PLG fuse, then your vehicle doesn't have that module.

For the RBCM, there are 2 fuses protecting it: the 15A ROOM fuse in the ER fuse box; and the 25A D.LOCK fuse in the cabin fuse box.
I had the power lift gate problem this weekend on my 2018 CX-5. I tried pulling the PLG fuse, but that didn’t solve the problem.

While doing further research, I came across this thread.

I pulled the ROOM and D.LOCK fuses for 60 seconds and replaced. Now the lift gate works.

Wanted to note this fix works and say thanks.
 
I had the power lift gate problem this weekend on my 2018 CX-5. I tried pulling the PLG fuse, but that didn’t solve the problem.

While doing further research, I came across this thread.

I pulled the ROOM and D.LOCK fuses for 60 seconds and replaced. Now the lift gate works.

Wanted to note this fix works and say thanks.
Thanks for posting your result, and it's good to have confirmation that it works just as well as the battery disconnect.
 
I’m glad it worked.

It stuck me that pulling fuses is probably a lot safer for the casual owner, compared to fussing with the battery.
Yeah.. great that it worked.. the Mazda dealership actually disconnected the battery to get my liftgate reset. Surprised they don't know that trick
 
The lift gate on our 2019 CX-5 is stuck! I tried all of the electrical fixes and nothing. I tried the mechanical release inside the tailgate and it still won't open. I'm stuck!! Help!!
 
The lift gate on our 2019 CX-5 is stuck! I tried all of the electrical fixes and nothing. I tried the mechanical release inside the tailgate and it still won't open. I'm stuck!! Help!!
Had the same problem. Body shop fixed car but liftgate didn't work. Troed to reset by holding the liftgate button but that didn't work. sometimes gotta disconnect the battery. Problem is disconnect battery might reset other stuff.
The body shop disconnect and reconnect the battery to get it to work. I'm not most knowledgeable. So check to see how to best disconnect battery without messing something else up.
 
Had the same problem. Body shop fixed car but liftgate didn't work. Troed to reset by holding the liftgate button but that didn't work. sometimes gotta disconnect the battery. Problem is disconnect battery might reset other stuff.
The body shop disconnect and reconnect the battery to get it to work. I'm not most knowledgeable. So check to see how to best disconnect battery without messing something else up.
I have tried all of the electrical possibilities. I have tried the manual method to unlock the latch but that hasn’t worked. The gate seems like it is stuck.
 
I have tried all of the electrical possibilities. I have tried the manual method to unlock the latch but that hasn’t worked. The gate seems like it is stuck.
Hmmm. The mech said they disconnected for a few minutes and reconnected to fix it. Wonder how good your battery is. Can you test your battery? I know it's only couple years old but it's possible if not enough juice then maybe it's not getting enough juice to open.
 
I have tried all of the electrical possibilities. I have tried the manual method to unlock the latch but that hasn’t worked. The gate seems like it is stuck.
If the manual method doesn't work, that would seem like the latch mechanism is jammed, so is it possible that some object was trapped in the gate the last time it was closed? There was a thread a while back posted by someone who had a backpack strap jam up the latch, and who was fortunately able to work it free enough for the gate to open.
 
If the manual method doesn't work, that would seem like the latch mechanism is jammed, so is it possible that some object was trapped in the gate the last time it was closed? There was a thread a while back posted by someone who had a backpack strap jam up the latch, and who was fortunately able to work it free enough for the gate to open.
I can’t see anything. I am going to try fixing it later. It was just too hot yesterday to spend too much time in that car.
 
Does the latch move when you try to manually open it from the inside? If it does, it may be helpful to have someone try to pull the liftgate open from the outside, while you lift the latch and try to push it from outside.
 
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