2016 Mazda CX-5 - What do you not like?

[Conrad 16.5]

One other thing I hate: The keyless ignition. Ever since I got the car, I've been nervous about what would happen if it ever stopped working. Today, it stopped working, and the car is completely dead in the garage, and I've been waiting for the tow truck for two hours. At least I'm at home, and not stranded on the side of the road.

Yes, and yes.
I also tried the second key fob. The batteries aren't low. The keyless entry works, but the ignition doesn't recognize the keys.

When you stepped on the brake did you get a green indicator on the start button and a green key indicator in the dash? If so what happened when you pressed the start button? I mean, other than it not starting? Did you try holding the start button in for a bit?

 

[7eregrine]

Middle seat in the rear. Useless. 5 passenger, my ass.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[loopy8]

1. Mechanically actuated rear door child locks which can only be controlled by opening the rear doors to reach the switches. Maybe I'm ignorant, but I've never seen a vehicle with such an asinine implementation of child locks. The first cars I ever saw which had child locks were in the mid to late 80's, and in those and every other car I've seen since (which had power door locks) they were electronically controllable from the driver's position.

I am only slightly less angry at myself for not noticing this as I am at Mazda for doing it. When a car's spec sheet has lines for "power door locks" and "rear door child locks" I assume the child locks are electronically controllable just as I assume "all season tires" means it has four of them touching the ground, they're round, and made of some kind of rubberish material. I don't think that's an unreasonable assumption. Dumb Mazda. Dumb. Dumb.

Dumb.

2. Driver's window lockout locking out the driver's controls for the other windows. Only slightly less dumb than number 1. Very slightly.

3. No auto up/down for windows other than the driver's. What would that cost? An extra three cents per switch? I bet the overall cost of using the same "upgraded" switch for all windows would be less then the overhead cost of managing two different parts to perform the same function anyway.

4. No lift gate release from the driver's position, and nothing easily accessible from anywhere inside the vehicle.

5. No linkage between the ambient/external light sensor and the display/gauge cluster lighting. Turning on the headlights always dims the console, regardless of whether it's light or dark outside. Rather annoying when I want my headlights on before the sun goes down.

6. No linkage between the headlights and wipers when headlights are in automatic mode. Some states require headlights to be on if it's raining enough to use wipers. With both having automatic settings, I find it easy to forget to turn on my lights when it's raining and/or turn them off then it stops.

7. Shift point selection. The car is always at least one gear too high in normal mode. Sport mode is almost always two gears too low. Lugging an engine in an overdrive gear at 30 MPH is bad for it and gas mileage, as is cruising at 35 in second gear. I can only guess that's why my MPG is such crap all the time. I drive 75% highway and I can't get more than 22 MPG on a tank.

8. The manual shift directions are wrong. Push up to shift down? WTF?

9. No tire pressure display. There's a TPMS. The car knows the pressure because it can turn on a light if it thinks the pressure is out of spec. So show me what it is. What's the problem with that, Mazda?

10. No engine/coolant temperature gauge.

11. Needs more power. It really is kind of gutless.

12. I'm finding a lot of sharp edges on things. The seam at the end of the signal/wiper stalks and the back of the steering wheel between the leather wrap and the plastic housing are two places I often find myself resting the tips of my fingers and there's a sharp edge on both that always feels like its about to cut into my skin. The seam around the edge of the visors is pretty sharp too.

 

[Kaps]

1. Mechanically actuated rear door child locks which can only be controlled by opening the rear doors to reach the switches. Maybe I'm ignorant, but I've never seen a vehicle with such an asinine implementation of child locks. The first cars I ever saw which had child locks were in the mid to late 80's, and in those and every other car I've seen since (which had power door locks) they were electronically controllable from the driver's position.

My Camry has the same, same as the Acura TLX my friend has, same as the Toyota Highlander my other friend has. - I am not sure what you mean? you want a power child door lock? Which price range do you get these?

6. No linkage between the headlights and wipers when headlights are in automatic mode. Some states require headlights to be on if it's raining enough to use wipers. With both having automatic settings, I find it easy to forget to turn on my lights when it's raining and/or turn them off then it stops.

Again which specific vehicle has this? I have never seen any highway patrols or any cops specifically point this out and ticket someone for it. So if it is raining with good natural light you still want lights on?

7. Shift point selection. The car is always at least one gear too high in normal mode. Sport mode is almost always two gears too low. Lugging an engine in an overdrive gear at 30 MPH is bad for it and gas mileage, as is cruising at 35 in second gear. I can only guess that's why my MPG is such crap all the time. I drive 75% highway and I can't get more than 22 MPG on a tank.

Moderators, sorry I am not trolling but if you are doing 22 at 75% highway - i think you need to lemon law this. There has to be a mechanical flaw somewhere. PBKAC or not assuming you have atleast 2k miles on ODO.
i get 29.5 mpg - 28 miles with dropping kid off - two school zones - 1 congested TX 360 hwy - one internal road with 4-5 lights, another frontage road with 45 avg speed and ending with crowded TX 121 - my avg speed is in mid 30s.
Only way you get 22mpg is if you are doing 85 or so in your highway against strong winds or doing 92-93 mph - but still i think you would get 27ish. Besides i do go vroom vroom!
From this forum - mpgs are off by 1-2 - but this is a very peppy car and people floor it often.

8. The manual shift directions are wrong. Push up to shift down? WTF?

At this point I am not sure what to say.

9. No tire pressure display. There's a TPMS. The car knows the pressure because it can turn on a light if it thinks the pressure is out of spec. So show me what it is. What's the problem with that, Mazda?

Different manufacturers do different things, nissan beeps when you fill pressure and it hits the right #, camry displays psi values, some manufacturers dont. Also manufacturers will add upgrades year on year so they dont give all 100% features upfront. Honda has lane assist camera with mix reviews - with Mazda i think they are not as hard pressed as hyundai or nissan to provide too many features at lower price point. I think the car is great value if you compare it to Rav4 XLE base trim ( I got a touring). Honda / Subaru would be more expensive.

11. Needs more power. It really is kind of gutless.

There is a website called youtube.com - in future search for Alex Dykes - Alex on Autos review if your a North America buyer. CX-5 has almost same power as Rav4 / Rogue etc. but has good torque upfront and better handling overall.

12. I'm finding a lot of sharp edges on things. The seam at the end of the signal/wiper stalks and the back of the steering wheel between the leather wrap and the plastic housing are two places I often find myself resting the tips of my fingers and there's a sharp edge on both that always feels like its about to cut into my skin. The seam around the edge of the visors is pretty sharp too.

(freak) (bike)


Have you looked at the new mirage btw?

 

[7eregrine]

you can pick up a decent set of aftermarket wheels for around $1,200. if Mazda offered a different set of OEM wheels, they'd definitely be over $2,500.

Where do you shop for wheels, man? There's this website called Tirerack.com Check 'em out. Lots of wheels for under $200 /per. Although I like the GT wheels. /Joke (Apparently you have much more expensive taste then me... they also have $900 per wheels).

Agree with some of Loops' post.
1. I like the way the Mazda is. I don't want to ever even waste a second wondering if my locks are off or on. Especially when my son's bratty ass friend is back there. My son has never tried opening the doors, but this kid? Ugh... My Saab was also like this. Not to mention it's funny your passengers have to be let out of the car by you. YMMV
2. Yea, that's odd.
3. Doesn't bother me.
4. That would be nice, agree.
5-8 Disagree.
9. TPM works the exact same way on wife's Volvo. "LOW" and "VERY LOW GET AIR NOW DUMBASS" are all we get told by the car. And you know what? That works pretty well. Why do I need the actual numbers?
10. Would be nice but I like the little blue light, too. Makes it easy for my wife to know when it's warm.
11. Disagree. Did you drive many other things? CX5 and Jeep Cherokee were clearly the quickest cars I drove in the class.

 

[7eregrine]

Again which specific vehicle has this? I have never seen any highway patrols or any cops specifically point this out and ticket someone for it. So if it is raining with good natural light you still want lights on?

Oh, and yea dude, there are a few states (PA being one) that require head lights on any time your wipers are on. Its a visibility thing.
I just don't need me car to do that for me automatically.

 

[Ricsta]

9. No tire pressure display. There's a TPMS. The car knows the pressure because it can turn on a light if it thinks the pressure is out of spec. So show me what it is. What's the problem with that, Mazda?

The TPMS doesn't know the pressure of each tire, it monitors the speed of each tire and once a certain difference in tire speed occurs, due an under inflated tire, it alerts you.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

1. Mechanically actuated rear door child locks which can only be controlled by opening the rear doors to reach the switches. Maybe I'm ignorant, but I've never seen a vehicle with such an asinine implementation of child locks. The first cars I ever saw which had child locks were in the mid to late 80's, and in those and every other car I've seen since (which had power door locks) they were electronically controllable from the driver's position.

I am only slightly less angry at myself for not noticing this as I am at Mazda for doing it. When a car's spec sheet has lines for "power door locks" and "rear door child locks" I assume the child locks are electronically controllable just as I assume "all season tires" means it has four of them touching the ground, they're round, and made of some kind of rubberish material. I don't think that's an unreasonable assumption. Dumb Mazda. Dumb. Dumb.

Dumb.

I don't know which cars you've been driving/buying but I've purchased a good number of new cars since the implementation of 'child safety' locks and I have never seen an electronic version. They've all been mechanical and the rear doors have to be opened to engage the locks.

2. Driver's window lockout locking out the driver's controls for the other windows. Only slightly less dumb than number 1. Very slightly.

I agree, dumb!

3. No auto up/down for windows other than the driver's. What would that cost? An extra three cents per switch? I bet the overall cost of using the same "upgraded" switch for all windows would be less then the overhead cost of managing two different parts to perform the same function anyway.

Dumb!

4. No lift gate release from the driver's position, and nothing easily accessible from anywhere inside the vehicle.

Dumb!

5. No linkage between the ambient/external light sensor and the display/gauge cluster lighting. Turning on the headlights always dims the console, regardless of whether it's light or dark outside. Rather annoying when I want my headlights on before the sun goes down.

6. No linkage between the headlights and wipers when headlights are in automatic mode. Some states require headlights to be on if it's raining enough to use wipers. With both having automatic settings, I find it easy to forget to turn on my lights when it's raining and/or turn them off then it stops.

7. Shift point selection. The car is always at least one gear too high in normal mode. Sport mode is almost always two gears too low. Lugging an engine in an overdrive gear at 30 MPH is bad for it and gas mileage, as is cruising at 35 in second gear. I can only guess that's why my MPG is such crap all the time. I drive 75% highway and I can't get more than 22 MPG on a tank.

8. The manual shift directions are wrong. Push up to shift down? WTF?

9. No tire pressure display. There's a TPMS. The car knows the pressure because it can turn on a light if it thinks the pressure is out of spec. So show me what it is. What's the problem with that, Mazda?

This type of TRMS does not know the air pressure in each tire so it can't tell you what it doesn't know.

10. No engine/coolant temperature gauge.

Dumb!

11. Needs more power. It really is kind of gutless.

12. I'm finding a lot of sharp edges on things. The seam at the end of the signal/wiper stalks and the back of the steering wheel between the leather wrap and the plastic housing are two places I often find myself resting the tips of my fingers and there's a sharp edge on both that always feels like its about to cut into my skin. The seam around the edge of the visors is pretty sharp too.

 

[erhayes]

The name loopy8 says it all.

 

[banjos-n-beer]

"5. No linkage between the ambient/external light sensor and the display/gauge cluster lighting. Turning on the headlights always dims the console, regardless of whether it's light or dark outside. Rather annoying when I want my headlights on before the sun goes down."

Just twist the Trip Odometer stick all the way clockwise until it clicks. Not really rocket science.

 

[CX-5um]

The TPMS doesn't know the pressure of each tire, it monitors the speed of each tire and once a certain difference in tire speed occurs, due an under inflated tire, it alerts you.

This is both a good thing and a bad thing. Bad because you don't immediately know which tire/s is out of spec and by how much unless its a flat tire. Good because it's a simple design that isn't too sensitive and less intrusive when buying aftermarket wheels.

 

[Conrad 16.5]

This is both a good thing and a bad thing. Bad because you don't immediately know which tire/s is out of spec and by how much unless its a flat tire. Good because it's a simple design that isn't too sensitive and less intrusive when buying aftermarket wheels.

Another good thing about this type of system is that there are no sensors inside the wheels that will eventually need to have the batteries replaced.

Or worse, my Kawasaki has the type of TPMS that has sensors in both wheels and it displays the pressure readings on the dash. Kawasaki, in their infinite wisdom, used sensors that are unable to have the batteries replaced. So the entire sensor has to be replaced when the batteries go dead. At least that how they planed it. Fortunately with a little bit of knowledge and some soldering skills one can open these sensors up and replace the batteries.

 

[yrwei52]

The TPMS doesn't know the pressure of each tire, it monitors the speed of each tire and once a certain difference in tire speed occurs, due an under inflated tire, it alerts you.

This is both a good thing and a bad thing. Bad because you don't immediately know which tire/s is out of spec and by how much unless its a flat tire. Good because it's a simple design that isn't too sensitive and less intrusive when buying aftermarket wheels.

Another bad thing about this type of system is that it can't detect incorrect tire pressure for sensonal changes. The 39 psi can go down to 28 psi on all 4 road tires on my CX-5 from fall to winter without triggering TPMS light.

Direct read TPMS system with pressure sensor inside of each tire can be more sophisticated such as this Tire Pressure Monitoring System with Easy-Fill Tire Alert on Nissan Rogue. And the batteries for the sensors normally can last more than ten years easily. You can also have the measurement of spare tire where it gets neglected most often.

 

[Anchorman]

I'd rather have our system than one with electronic sensors.

 

[CX-5um]

Some useful info....well not so much for Skyactiv Mazdas:

What Causes TPMS to Fail?
TPMS Direct explains some of the causes of TPMS failure

Sensors fail primarily due to battery failure or improper service procedures. Initially there will be a learning curve for installing and checking the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), but most service technicians quickly learn how to identify and service the system efficiently.

Sensor batteries can become discharged and fail the internal lithium battery is not serviceable, and it has a life expectancy of approximately 5-7 years.
Installing the incorrect valve core will cause failure TPMS sensors require a special nickel-plated valve core instead of the regular copper or brass valve core
Normal tire changing procedures can damage a TPMS sensor this includes flat repairs, new tire replacement, snow tire change or a wheel upgrade
Pulling a typical looking rubber valve stem out of the wheel will lead to a broken sensor. TPMS systems now use either metal or rubber valves
Over tightening a new sensor valve will result in a broken sensor
Typical road hazards - collisions, potholes, curbs - can damage the TPMS system
TPMS sensors contain delicate electronics that are subject to failure over time
Like most things, TPMS are not invincible. Curbs, potholes, and just streets in general pose hazardous conditions to our aftermarket wheel and TPMS Sensors. Unfortunately we cannot control that but we can save you from the dealership! Our sensors are 100% OEM replacement, they are the same exact sensors that are in there right now. We buy in large quantities direct from manufactures to ensure that we always have availability, and that we provide the best prices anywhere.

http://www.tpmsdirect.com/What_Causes_TPMS_to_Fail_a/290.htm

 

[Conrad 16.5]

The TPMS batteries on my bike failed in less than three years. Kawasaki replaced both sensors under warranty. So far the new sensors are still working fine.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ Sensor batteries can become discharged and fail the internal lithium battery is not serviceable, and it has a life expectancy of approximately 5-7 years.

This may not be true about the battery life:

I did have one TPMS sensor fail early on my '07 Infiniti but the rest are now 9 years old and still working fine. Old school valve stem model on Infiniti.

Buddy I have a Corvette with original TP wheel sensors still working at 16 years with 80,000 miles so not all are bad. The CX-5 has the ABS sensor design for TPMS.

 

[CX-5um]

Yeah I find it quite impressive these batteries last as long as they do. Then again Mazdas don't have to worry about them.


https://forums.tesla.com/forum/forums/tpms-sensor-battery-issues
3-year old Tesla had 5 TPMS sensor die

http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v36-2007-08/319773-tpms-low-battery.html
G35 with 24k miles at the time had low battery in 2 different sensors requiring replacement.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-battery-died-any-way-to-salvage-the-car.html
7-year old Lexus IS250, 2 sensor batteries died

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/threads/tpms-issue-battery-problem.136216/
3 trucks ranging at about 7 years old on this page reported TPMS batteries died

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f44/replacing-dead-tpms-sensors-under-extended-warranty-46213.html
6 year old VW Toureg with TPMS sensor batteries dead

Also too that on some makes/models with TPMS sensors in tires, if the car battery dies there's a relearn process which can range from simple DIY to having to go to the dealer to have them to reset the sensors via a reprogram tool.

 

[7eregrine]

OK, so where is the "What do you LOVE about your CX-5?" thread? Can't seem to find that.

 

[ddtigger1]

2016.5 GT: 5 months old

Dislike:
Disclaimer warning every time I start the vehicle.. ( yes Mazda I get it I agreed with it moths ago, now go away)
Rear window spray cleaner.. does not spray, it streams.. I want it to fan spray like the fronts do.
Talking to the infotainment system, she (it) can't do much.. (navigate to: seatac airport.. navigating to home...). What the..? Cancel navigation: sorry I can not do that, ... what the frack.... cancel, cancel,stop.. I do not understand... ugh..
long pause after pressing the voice control button on steering wheel.

Wish list: not deal breakers...
No door light when I open the door I want a led strip at the bottom of the door to light the area.
No left foot rest covering the carpet.
Memory seats, I hit my knee after the wife's been driving..
Rear view mirror that dimmed more or faster.
CarPlay... see above navigation frustrations.
Better lighting in the cargo area.
Seat warmer is okay not as hot as the BMW.

Workarounds:
If I need more power quickly (merging into traffic, or passing) love using the 'sport' toggle, it's like getting a jr turbo... just reach down feel with my fingers not taking eyes of the road.. then off again to cruise.

No hood gas struts- but can added on; but a single metal manual arm its outdated.. so 1980's

Likes:
E-brake button I've got no issues. I like how I can feel it engaging and disengaging in the Brake pedal.
No auto lift gate.. I can open and close faster than my brother Honda with auto liftgate.. I'm in and out fast.
Upcoming cross street name up top of the infotainment screen.
Not having the infotainment up out of the dash, I don't care for the look in the 6.
No paddle shifters, I like it the way it is, coming from a manual transmission history.. if feels more natural to me.
Ride height.
Turning headlights
Wish the grill light up like the 6 does.