2016 CX-9 Travel Trailer Towing Questions

[MotoStringr]

New 2016 CX9 Grand Touring FWD Owner and have questions about towing a 20 foot travel trailer.

Thinking of purchasing a Forest River RPod RP189 Travel Trailer with a 2800lb Dry weight rating. I figure an extra 200lbs of cargo, fluids etc...

(1) What Type of Hitch is best for this?
(2) Do I need a load bearing Hitch?
(3) Is a wireless brake controller okay?
(4) Would I need to upgrade my CX9 Suspension?
(5) Would I need to Upgrade CX9 Brake Pads etc...?
(6) Any Transmission cooling considerations, add-ons etc...

Has anyone towed a 2800-3000lb travel trailer?
Can the CX9 handle this with careful uphill and downhill driving, braking etc?

I would rally appr3ciate any real world experience.

MS

 

[PTguy]

1) 2" class 3 hitch receiver
2) Yes
4) No
5) No. You do want the best electric brake controller. You want the trailer brakes to brake the trailer while the car brakes brake the car.

Always tow in Sport Mode. This changes the transmission shift point so the engine shifts at higher rpms. Remember the horsepower calculation...rpm x torque divided by a constant = hp. It takes a certain horsepower to pull a given weight at a set speed up a certain grade. To get that hp if your use higher rpms you need less torque which results in less strain on rotating parts.

 

[N7turbo]

Always tow in Sport Mode. This changes the transmission shift point so the engine shifts at higher rpms. Remember the horsepower calculation...rpm x torque divided by a constant = hp. It takes a certain horsepower to pull a given weight at a set speed up a certain grade. To get that hp if your use higher rpms you need less torque which results in less strain on rotating parts.

While your formula is correct ((TQ × RPM)/5252), it's not true that higher RPMs will result in less strain on the rotating parts. The opposite is true, generally. The only thing you'd be reducing is carbon buildup from lugging the engine at lower RPMs, and the potential for LSPI. Now that may be reason enough, but I just wanted to clarify the first part.

Also, everyone can reduce their risk of LSPI by using API SP oil, rather than the Mazda oil which is an older spec.

 

[youri]

While your formula is correct ((TQ × RPM)/5252), it's not true that higher RPMs will result in less strain on the rotating parts. The opposite is true, generally. The only thing you'd be reducing is carbon buildup from lugging the engine at lower RPMs, and the potential for LSPI. Now that may be reason enough, but I just wanted to clarify the first part.

Also, everyone can reduce their risk of LSPI by using API SP oil, rather than the Mazda oil which is an older spec.

Not really, you are forgetting about the load on the part. For the same amount of power output you have two scenarios.

Scenario one is low rpm, high throttle output.

Scenario two is higher rpm, lighter throttle output.

They both generate the exact same power. In scenario one each piston stroke need to work harder. You need more fuel burned per stroke and each component work harder. Think of it has one hard push.

In scenario two, you make smaller, multiple push to achieve the same work. So each stroke need less fuel, and work less.

Higher rotation with lower load for the same power is generally better on engine components. Obviously as long as everything stays cool, do not overheat and the revs are kept at a reasonable level. For fuel economy we are used to engine running in the 2000 rpm range, but there is nothing wrong driving in the 3000 rpm with a lighter foot instead. You achieve that by downshifting to a lower gear.