Still doing fine. It takes a Group 35 battery, easy to find. There are only 3 auto battery makers in the U.S., Exide, Johnson Controls, and East Penn. Each one makes a few different quality lines and many labels for marketers. (For example, Interstate auto batteries are made by Johnson Controls, NAPA by Exide.) Basically choose by the highest CCA cold cranking amps for the money or the longest warranty for the money. Or the cheapest if you don't plan on keeping the car for long. In your LA climate you don't need the long CCA, but that's an indicator of the future battery life. Battery makers make different internal constructions for warm regions and cold regions, and that isn't marked on the batteries--the right ones are shipped to the regions that need them. Somebody will say to buy an Optima battery. Those are made by Johnson Controls for very rough conditions. For ordinary driving they aren't worth their high cost.
Dealers, repair shops, and many auto parts stores will give you a free battery load test. That is a good way to tell if the battery is getting weak before it dies on you. Or if it is still going strong and you don't yet need a new one.
Batteries don't suddenly fail. They gradually deteriorate until they don't have enough capacity to crank the engine over long enough to start it and power the car's electronics. Say the battery loses 2% of capacity a month. That will be a 50 month life. Say it takes 20% capacity to crank the engine in normal temperatures. You're OK for the first 40 months, then on month 41 the battery has only 18% capacity left and it won't start the car. It "suddenly" failed. (Maybe my numbers are wrong, but I hope you get the idea.)