2014 CX-5 100k service

Thanks all for your inputs.

In particular, appreciate yrwei52 and Snorting2.5 for their thoughts on LCA. Repair quote is from a local repair shop and LCA (right and left) is the most expensive item on the list. I will get a second quote from other shop and see if it is any better

Any thoughts on the drive belt-serpentine. Apparently, it is also due. Please see below

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Also adding both LCAs - do both look bad equally bad (rubber and ball joint)
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If the ball joints on the LCAs are still in good shape without play, the worn bushings won’t cause immediate danger other than some clunking noise. But if the rubber seal on ball joints is cracked or broken with play, it definitely is time to replace the LCAs. I went to Brakes Plus to replace a LCA on passenger side with my own OEM LCA, the labor is $258 and the 4-wheel alignment is $87.

Yes your serpentine belt has cracks and should be replaced. There’s a water pump stretch belt inside of serpentine belt which should be replaced at the same time and save the labor charge. If you’re going to DIY on this task using the OEM water pump stretch belt is recommended as the aftermarket belt such as Gates is a bit shorter and it’s very difficult to put on. And don’t forget to replace the belt tensioner as the factory tensioner is prone to leak. Use only OEM or INA tensioner.

And don’t forget to replace the coolant with fresh FL-22 coolant, it’s due in 10 years, and 5 years thereafter.
 
Early worn can just make for sloppy handling without clunks and squeaks … at least that was the case on a few of my older vehicles in the past.
 
These cars' LCA bushings seem to clunk first and fail second. Very little movement (if any) detectable until they fail.
 
I would definitely replace that serpentine belt as precautionary measure. At 220,000km, mine was in rough shape.

If your ball joints have play in them, find a better quote and replace them. Otherwise, you could leave those for now (if you wish.)
To be honest, I don't understand what "play" means here. I am assuming that the play is not desirable. Is there a way to tell while driving whether there is play in LCA ball joints or not? Like while turning or going over potholes.

The only unusual noise that I have noticed recently is that while driving and not accelerating (feet not on the gas pedal), there is additional sound from a rotating piece. Not sure where it is coming from it is from transmission, engine, belt. But it is there. Hoping it goes away after service
 
To be honest, I don't understand what "play" means here. I am assuming that the play is not desirable. Is there a way to tell while driving whether there is play in LCA ball joints or not? Like while turning or going over potholes.

The only unusual noise that I have noticed recently is that while driving and not accelerating (feet not on the gas pedal), there is additional sound from a rotating piece. Not sure where it is coming from it is from transmission, engine, belt. But it is there. Hoping it goes away after service
Watch this video in the thread and both LCAs were loose and needed to be replaced at 33,000 miles on a 2020 CX-5:

CX-5 Feels squirrelly

Actually, if you look again, it looks like the lower control arm is wiggling with the wheel (both sides). Doubt it's the bearings, just the LCA. Also, why are they changing the shocks? If they're not weeping, I would doubt you need need shocks at 30K.

Read the thread.
 
To be honest, I don't understand what "play" means here. I am assuming that the play is not desirable. Is there a way to tell while driving whether there is play in LCA ball joints or not? Like while turning or going over potholes.
Yes, particularly when you do both. Going over a bump mid corner will do the trick. You might hear a clunk, or a thud, a snapping sound, something wobbling around (Play.) Note, it could be things other than the Ball Joint.

With the car up in the air, take the two front wheels and try to wiggle them side to side (Assuming your lug nuts are tight) There should be no play (Meaning, the front wheels do not budge, even with considerable effort.)
 
Gates will give you a gauge to check wear with. If you see sections of the micro ribs missing it needs replacement. Cracks in the ribs mean it will need it soon.
 
Hi, my 2014 CX-5 touring is hitting 100k and I went to a local car repair shop to get an idea what 100k service items need to be done and at what cost.

The car runs fine so far with 28 MPG (with mixed driving) and we have done regular oil changes and as needed battery replacement, brake pad, differential fluid, tires. I am wondering whether the services are "required" or "nice to have". I do plan to keep the car and will appreciate any thoughts.

The list of suggested service items are-
  1. Cabin air filter
  2. Engine Coolant Flush
  3. Transfer Case Fluid Exchange - gear oil
  4. Transmission Fluid Flush
  5. Drive Belt - serpentine
  6. Fuel/ air induction service
  7. Spark Plugs
  8. Control Arms Suspension
My 2014 AWD CX-5 has 111,000 miles and over the last 8 months I've started proactively investing in it, so I figured for others finding this thread, I'd compare yours to mine:

1) Cabin air filter - you can get these at Amazon for $15 or less and change them yourself as much as you like. It's easy. Also, the engine air filter is a little more challenging, but you can learn to do it and save a lot of money which frees up money for things that require a mechanic and special tools. (proactive)
2) Engine coolant flush - just done at 110k (proactive)
3) Transfer case fluid done near 100k. Rear differential was done 2-3 times before (proactive)
4) Transmission fluid done near 100k. (proactive)
5) Drive serpentine belt broke on me around 80k (?) as I was returning from a trip. I WAS INCREDIBLY LUCKY: It broke 1 mile from a dealer and because the car still drove I carefully limped to their lot and dropped it off for them to replace the belt plus the belt tensioner that keeps the belt tightly in place. (repair)
6) Fuel induction service: I've been delaying this as I learn more about it. Blasting the engine intakes with walnut shells appears to be a one-shot high quality method of cleaning them, but it costs more and many places don't do it because it requires taking the intake manifold off the engine and special equipment. Instead, there are chemical processes to do this that are not as effective so you have to do them several times. Ideally, it seems, you do this proactively to avoid significant build up and then it's just a routine 1-2 year thing like an oil change that you accept. (repair/proactive)
7) Spark plugs proactively replaced near 100k. (proactive)

8) Lower Control Arms. This issue is my primary reason for this reply. As my car ages, I've gotten used to how it feels over time and it's hard to remember what it was like when it was new. But I would drive on city roads at 5-40 miles per hour and when hitting bumps like asphalt patch work, the car would rumble and then the car would shift to the left or right a little bit. It didn't feel stable, yet not bad enough to feel unsafe. It really started to sound and feel like "an old car" and many people would just sell it and buy another.

I took it to the dealer whose been doing my work and they replaced the Lower Control arms, Sway bar links, and tie rod ends (so much of the front suspension) for about $2,000. Initially this felt like an expensive repair where you spend money and things just aren't broken anymore but your money is gone. But immediately upon driving with a new front suspension I re-discovered the initial love I had for driving my Mazda on curvy roads. And not just curvy roads but anytime I needed to do more than straight driving. No more rumble sound, steering and handling is precise and nimble and I feel confident and in-control.

This one "repair" felt like an improvement and has changed my attitude about having maintenance done. With the cost of new cars being so high, I'm choosing to explore spending a good amount of money on "investment" work: both proactive and reactive "repairs" in hopes that I can get another 90,000 miles out of this.

Shown below are the before and after of the Lower Control Arm bushings. Anyone should be able to use a phone camera under their car to self inspect to compare what they have now vs brand new. Doing so helps you know your mechanic isn't just making something up and that this may actually improve or restore your driving comfort.

Hope this helps others as our CX-5s age.
 

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