2007 Mazda3i Sport

[jR.]

2007 Mazda3i Sport(UPDATED Pics)

Well I did it, I traded my P5 for a Mazda3i Sport.
Looks sweet as hell, but I don't like the fact that it doesn't have Power windows and locks, and no CC. Other than that I love that new car, and it's a 5 speed, how I miss being in control of a car!

1. First question is even though it doesn't have power, can I in the future get a aftermarket keyless entry and power windows, locks?
Thanks in advance!
2. Second question is how are you supposed to break in a new car? It has 49 miles so I dont want to do anything that will affect it longterm....

 

[Choot]

Congrats on the new car!

They do have that for aftermarket, just gonna get a little pricey. Couldn't you have found a good deal on the next model up with the power windows and locks? It would have been less hassel to deal with and you'd have oem look of the install.

 

[jR.]

No becuase I owed alot on the P5, but it started to act funny.

 

[jR.]

(bump)

 

[TheFa1isOutdone]

My buddy added aftermarket power locks to his 2006 civic DX. It cost him about $1100 at a local best buy to install. That's parts and labor.

 

[jR.]

1100?
Im looking at http://www.commandocaralarms.com/itemdetails.asp?ProductID=1459 , and there alot cheaper than that, is it going to cost me 1000 to install?

 

[Choot]

It's not gonna be cheap. The problem is that your car is not powered. For the locks, they would need to install solenoids to lock and unlock your doors (four total) and then wire it to your driver's side door so you can control your door and your passenger doors. The you would have to program the locking functions to your new keyless remote (1 stage/ 2 stage, etc).

The windows would require a motor to be installed into each door (again 4 total). The manual rollers would have to be replaced and covered up. The power switches for each window would have to be installed and wired onto each door, with all four windows routed to your driver's door also for control of all windows.

It's gonna be expensive since it takes a good amount of time to take the doors apart and wire them and test them correctly, then put everything together.

Think about it, the local circuit city will install your headunit (if it's simple plug in and play with available harness) for about $100. For the average installer this takes less than an hour but is considered an hour job for basic installation. Imagine taking your doors apart, installing motors and solenoids, running wires, testing controls, putting doors back on, removing manual buttons/rollers, patching and covering the work for an oem look, and final inspection. I would say it could take a day for them (6-8 hours) to finish your job.

I would figure about $75+ per hour for this type of work. Hopefully you can get a better flat rate.

I'm no professional, but am not an amateur either. When I installed my own head units, replaced all speaker wires and rerouted them, installed my subs and various wires, it took me a good amount of time (whole day). I would imagine the professionals would be somewhat quicker depending on their experience with certain vehicle models.

Hope this helps you some. good luck.

 

[jR.]

Thanks for the Info! Keep it coming .....................

 

[Rotus8]

Thanks for the Info! Keep it coming .....................

Does your car have any kind of electric locking? A button you push to lock all the doors, or do you have to lock each one individually? If there is a button to lock/unlock all doors it is a lot easier. That means you already have the solenoids and solenoid driver. Then you have to add the remote to drive the solenoids.

If you have to lock each door individually, I agree with Choot on it.

I think you should learn to love your window cranks. Give them names, whisper nice things to them, and get them gifts on Valentine's day. (hippy) I agree with Choot on this too, adding aftermarket power windows is a major job.

 

[CHICO2003]

I can't believe they still make cars without PW & PL!! I mean damn... welcome to 1987!

No offense man but this is obviously important to you. You would've been better off just paying extra for it from the start. All things being even, you're a lot better off having it built into your payments than having to shell out a grand to a Best Buy. (and who knows how well that setup will work or look)

But hey... you know what they say about people who live in glass houses. I've made more than my fair share of dumbass decisions when it comes to cars so I shouldn't really talk. Good luck.

 

[CHICO2003]

Alright... I just looked up the difference in price between the sport and the touring models... It's like $3k! so... I suppose I can understand why you decided to go with the $13k version. (though, I bet you could've found a really nice slightly used touring for about the same price or less) But either way... though I'm not exactly pouring ketchup on my foot right now, I can at least understand your rationale.

 

[I_Vtec]

Congrats on the new car.

Time to change the avatar.

 

[jR.]

Yeah Im gonna update that soon, and the reason why I got the base model is because I have alot of negative equity on the p5. So I had to transfer that over, But I rather pay more on this car knowing that it is brand spanking new. Yes Sir. And I really dont care about the power windows, what I want is Power locks, I have two kids and i don't like reaching over to open the door, but If it cost too much to get a aftermarket one, they I can stop being lazy, thanks!

 

[Choot]

Well JR, just think of it this way: fewer electrical components means fewer repairs and malfunctions!

Doing the power locks aren't so bad, it's the power windows that get pricey. So I wish you luck with the project!

 

[jhowey]

Yeah call yourself lucky, 5 years from now if you had the pdl and pws you would be replacing window regulators and door lock actuators knowing mazda grade quality on those parts.

 

[TheDutchGun]

I can't believe they still make cars without PW & PL!! I mean damn... welcome to 1987!

No offense man but this is obviously important to you. You would've been better off just paying extra for it from the start. All things being even, you're a lot better off having it built into your payments than having to shell out a grand to a Best Buy. (and who knows how well that setup will work or look)

But hey... you know what they say about people who live in glass houses. I've made more than my fair share of dumbass decisions when it comes to cars so I shouldn't really talk. Good luck.

I was thinking the same thing.

 

[jR.]

I put back my wheels,
there 17x7.5 with a +45 offset, they don't rub, but I heard some sort of rubbing but then it went away, not sure if it was the sound of wind flowing by the car. The window was down, should those wheels fit fine?
On the Protege5 forum, there is a fitment guide, but none for the Mazda3.
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.

 

[jR.]

(bump)

 

[BlackJack]

LOL..umm....HAHAHA...Sorry man but you gotta go for the 18's. 17 looks SMALL for that lol

 

[jR.]

I might later but I didnt want to leave them on the p5 when I traded them so I put them here, later on in life i'll get bigger ones.