2004 Mazda 6 Engine problems studdering and not shifting at 60 mph

[MAXSPARKY]

2004 Mazda 6 GS sport V6 Automatic 3L Engine hesitates at 90km when i hit gas
I am having a problem mostly when going up hills and pressing the accelerator a little harder at 90km or more , the car revs up and hesitates and the rpms are going up but the car doesnt go any faster it chug chugs and the engine light starts flashing. If i really baby the accelarator i can slowly get it to shift and go up to 130km , going down hill i dont have this problem ? I had it into a shop and they put on some meter and said it had low compression in cylinder 6 , but then did a compression test and it came out fine . The engine light stays on but did actually go out for a few days but now its back on. Since I had alot of thick white smoke coming out of the exhaust last night , so i picked up a can of oil treatment gooey stuff and a can of wyns oil treatment as well as a bottle of fuel injector cleaner , the white smoke is much lighter now today ? any ideas why the car wont work properly ,, I cant even pass a car on the highway because it wont accelerate unless i am doing 50k trying to go 80K ????

 

[FORZDA 1]

If the "engine" light came on there is a code stored in the ECU. What is that code? I'm guessing that you have a bad O2 sensor. The code should identify it for you as well.

 

[sreddos]

If the CEL is flashing, you are having a misfire. When was the last time spark plugs were changed? With the car hesitating and not having power, that is the engine misfiring and not getting consistent power. You might have a coil out as well. Have the code run and most likely it will be P030X, with the X being the cylinder number.

 

[MAXSPARKY]

Thanks for the info , cant get into mazda til next week. It has been going thru more oil than normal and I havent changed it for 10-15000 miles so I just changed it. Now its going though alot of oil , drove 200 miles and burnt aquart . I bought some oil addidtive junk a gooey stuff and anothe type cant remmeber but ever since then I am burning ( i assume) too much oil . Today I had to drive to next town for work 300 miles return and burnt 3 quarts ???? . There is no oil leaks on the ground i see and no black smoke from the exhaust just thick white smoke on start up then goes away. I wonder If i have a leak...cant get into mazda dealer until wednesday for appointment. Is it safe to keep driving as long as i add oil ? When im driving 40-50 mhp cars seems to work great as long as i dont gun it to pass someone ??

 

[Guest20182]

Have them do another compression test on a all cylinders. Take it to AutoZone or the like and get that CEL read as well. Not looking good, this all kinda points to one or more bad piston rings. Otherwise it could be bad valve stem seals if it smokes at idle or start up but not while cruising.

 

[MAXSPARKY]

Will do Thanks , I had to go out of town again this time went a little slower and didnt have my wife and kids with me and burnt a quart of oil in about 250 miles , thats much better than the day before. I just added a quart of slick 50 maybe that will slow the engine failure down , dreading going to Mazda here I have heard horror stories , there seems to be a rattle in the engine not sure if its the bottom like you says or the cat converter , hardly smoking at all at start up now but when you drive 30-40 miles then pull over you can smell smoke once you pull away again for a couple minutes.I am not working right now got layed off , any magic syrup i can put in to get thru christmas ? cause i think Mazda is going to cheger 250 dollars this week to tell me i need a new engine ?? Slick 50 a waste of money to keep using to top up the oil ? I really appreciate your help you have given me thanks

 

[MAXSPARKY]

also the car only has 78000 miles on it

 

[MAXSPARKY]

Got called to work so cant drop off car until monday , I went thru 1 quart in last 150 miles , no black smoke or leak just white smoke and smoke fumes at stop lights when pull away. I guess the writing is on the wall I hear a little rattle low in engine but not bad. I put slick 50 in a few days ago hoping it would slow it down as well as been toping up with 140 w 40. Is there any other oils or additives i can put in to buy me more time ??? Mazda tells me my Oil consumption and studdering are probably not related which I have a hard time believing.Should I add more slick 50 or a heavier oil to gum it up more ?????? i shouldnt have changed the oil it was nice and thick i think i opened up a can of worms and made things worse ??

 

[MAXSPARKY]

sorry i used 10w40 not 140w40 that was a typo

 

[SteveJ]

Have you noticed any strange behavior in the temperature gauge? Also, did the white smoke smell sweet? When the car is cold, take off the radiator cap. Is the radiator fluid looking brown or milky? Are you sure it's white smoke and not light blue?

White smoke usually means antifreeze/head gasket. Light blue is oil being burnt.

Dumping in additives won't buy you much time. If you're trying to use them to plug a leak, you could also plug an oil passage. Slick 50 is a BIG waste of money, and it won't buy you any time. Buying time will also cost you a catalytic converter with all of the junk passing through your exhaust. If your province has tailpipe emissions testing of cars, you could have trouble.

 

[MAXSPARKY]

The Temp gague is right in the middle and doesnt move once its warmed up , sometimes i find it takes a bit to move while warming up though.The smoke doesnt have a smell at all during start up it is cloudy white when I drive away I just had my wife watch me , when I stop at a stop light and pull away or driving really slow in town i can smell a bit of an oil burning smell, but the end of the tailpipes inside look blacker than normal. We have no tailpipe emissions here and I have seen lots of vehicles that are burning oil big puffs of black smoke when they drive or hit the gas, Any chance can be a stupid thing that would make me burn or possibly leak oil( dont see any oil drops on ground). AS far as then engine rattle its not that loud as i hear other vehicles in parking lots that i can hear up close ?? Can I use a heavier oil than 20w that is recommended , I have added 10w40 ?? I wont use slick 50 anymore but need to buy some time to slow down oil burning or possibly leakage , wonder if PVC valve can cause these problems ? im not a mechanical person but my brother said check that or 02 sensor , he doesnt know much about cars either.Thanks for any help or advice you can give it all helps

 

[MAXSPARKY]

Took to Mazda , My wife picked it up they said not worth going thru the trouble of replacing coil,plugs etc based on it burning 1 qt of oil every 150 miles . The service advisor (female) said drive it til it drops then replace the engine.

I am using 10w 40 and LUCAS oil stabilizer (20%) any thing else i can do to get more time out of this enigne ????????? because i dont have 4000 bucks right now ?????????? I makes a light rattle no black smoke but you can smell it when it idles ? help anyone any suggestions ????

 

[FORZDA 1]

Don't put any snake-oil into the crankcase. If it is burning lots of oil, just buy the cheap stuff at Walmart in the correct weight (5w40 is good) and add a couple quarts with every gas fillup. There is truely nothing else you can do.

 

[MAXSPARKY]

Thanks for the advice

 

[Guest20182]

Yup that's about all you can do at this point. I recommend using the car for small trips and stuff, no major trips if you can avoid it.

 

[MAXSPARKY]

You said 5w40 oil is that thicker than 10w40 ? , just wondering about cold morning starts i have no garage

 

[FORZDA 1]

The 10w40 is thicker at startup, so I recommend the 5w40.

 

[Marcusbrenton7]

2004 Mazda 6 GS sport V6 Automatic 3L Engine hesitates at 90km when i hit gas
I am having a problem mostly when going up hills and pressing the accelerator a little harder at 90km or more , the car revs up and hesitates and the rpms are going up but the car doesnt go any faster it chug chugs and the engine light starts flashing. If i really baby the accelarator i can slowly get it to shift and go up to 130km , going down hill i dont have this problem ? I had it into a shop and they put on some meter and said it had low compression in cylinder 6 , but then did a compression test and it came out fine . The engine light stays on but did actually go out for a few days but now its back on. Since I had alot of thick white smoke coming out of the exhaust last night , so i picked up a can of oil treatment gooey stuff and a can of wyns oil treatment as well as a bottle of fuel injector cleaner , the white smoke is much lighter now today ? any ideas why the car wont work properly ,, I cant even pass a car on the highway because it wont accelerate unless i am doing 50k trying to go 80K ????

I have the EXACT same problem with my car. I thought at first they were transmission slips, cause that's what it initially felt like. Then the CEL problem came up, and it was a misfire of cylinder 2. I got all new spark plugs and gasgets, but the problem still isnt fixed. Aside from when the feeling of it happening, happens, the car run smooth and just fine. It does feel like a loss of power or something, cause like you said, you can't reaccelorate. I literally yell out loud at people that make me slow down, because to speed back up it needs to drop gear and it just doesn't want to. Then it has a chugging/slipping feeling and it's becoming very annoying. I've heard thoughts of it being piston rings, coils, and a few other things. Can't get an exact diagnosis, and I just want my sweet ass car back!! Is this something that was recalled ever, or what options could I try. Please help if others see this and recognize the problem!