$5500. My new WRX is coming in around 12/31, so the car needs to go around that time.
Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough. Located in Germantown, MD.
Selling my 2003.5 Titanium Gray Mazdaspeed Protege, production #318. I am the 2nd owner, bought the car in Aug 2006 with 37k on the clock. Has 76k currently. No accidents. Car is clean inside and out. Car has never seen boost above factory level (6psi). Never, abused, launched hard, tracked, etc. I drive like an old lady most of the time, car doesnt see boost very often. Always ran 93. Doesnt leak or burn a drop of oil or coolant. Compression is 160psi across the board (have reciept to prove it).
I signed up here before I bought the car, so the complete history of the car is pretty much here. Over the last few months I had a strange issue of the car starting to get warm/starting to overheat a bit every now and again. Eventually figured out that the cooling fan refused to come on when this was happening. Some sort of electrical bug somewhere most likely was the consensus on this forum. I got around the issue by just turning on the heater and making the fan come on manually when needed, or I would just shut the car off immediately. Never any boiling coolant or steam or anything like that. I replaced the full fan assembly recently and it hasnt happened since, my dad drives the car 3-4 times a week. This is the only real issue I've had with the car in 6+ years of ownership.
Has expected wear and tear/some dings/curb rash for a 10 year old car. Interior in pretty good shape - no tears. Small burn through mark on the rear seat that was there when I bought the car. Installed a new Kenwood head unit earlier this year as the stocker finally gave out.
I have a folder with a buch of receipts for oil changes and other maintanence. Car has been very good to me, has been very reliable. Gets 30+mpg without breaking a sweat.
Recent maintanence:
New drive belts just installed
New rear break pads (Posi Quiet)
New front rotors and pads (Centric Premium rots, OEM Mazda pads)
Just did a coolant flush - put in new thermostat and coolant temp sensor as well.
Installed new fan relay
Replaced cooling fan with lower mileage unit.
Tires have plenty of tread.
New battery in August
The following modifications are installed, most done after 50k:
Turbolife FMIC
Injen SRI (new AEM filter)
Split Second AFC
ApexR1 2.5" catted j-mid pipe
Greddy sp2 catback
Falken Factory Tuned lowering springs (rebadged Eibach Pro Kit)
Kartboy short shifter and shiftger rod bushings
Corksport bronzeoil shifter linkage bushings
Prosport Boost and Wideband gauges (some of the leds on the gauge have burned out)
ApexR1 air diversion panel
Medieval rear motor mount
RR racing front mm inserts
AWR side mm inserts
AAC bumper sag brackets (not installed)
Things to note:
The Turbolife FMIC required complete removal of the crash bar, the kit came with its own crash bar. Drive on the street at your own risk, standard disclaimer stuff, etc. I have the original crash bar, IC and piping, so if you want to go back to the original setup, I can include them with the car.
Its a protege, so things squeak and rattle. Due to the upgraded motor mounts, the vibrations inside the cabin increase a lot when cruising in neutral with the AC on. I have the original rear motor mount, its in good shape, you can have it if you want.
Rear sway bar bushings sqeak, as is common with these cars. I used to lube them every few months, but gave up. You might want to replace them at some point.
There is a small chunk of paint missing from the underside of the rear lip, I bought it that way and a little more paint gets chipped away with time.
Obvisouly no warranty, all sales are final.
Sorry for the long post, but I want to be thorough. Located in Germantown, MD.
Selling my 2003.5 Titanium Gray Mazdaspeed Protege, production #318. I am the 2nd owner, bought the car in Aug 2006 with 37k on the clock. Has 76k currently. No accidents. Car is clean inside and out. Car has never seen boost above factory level (6psi). Never, abused, launched hard, tracked, etc. I drive like an old lady most of the time, car doesnt see boost very often. Always ran 93. Doesnt leak or burn a drop of oil or coolant. Compression is 160psi across the board (have reciept to prove it).
I signed up here before I bought the car, so the complete history of the car is pretty much here. Over the last few months I had a strange issue of the car starting to get warm/starting to overheat a bit every now and again. Eventually figured out that the cooling fan refused to come on when this was happening. Some sort of electrical bug somewhere most likely was the consensus on this forum. I got around the issue by just turning on the heater and making the fan come on manually when needed, or I would just shut the car off immediately. Never any boiling coolant or steam or anything like that. I replaced the full fan assembly recently and it hasnt happened since, my dad drives the car 3-4 times a week. This is the only real issue I've had with the car in 6+ years of ownership.
Has expected wear and tear/some dings/curb rash for a 10 year old car. Interior in pretty good shape - no tears. Small burn through mark on the rear seat that was there when I bought the car. Installed a new Kenwood head unit earlier this year as the stocker finally gave out.
I have a folder with a buch of receipts for oil changes and other maintanence. Car has been very good to me, has been very reliable. Gets 30+mpg without breaking a sweat.
Recent maintanence:
New drive belts just installed
New rear break pads (Posi Quiet)
New front rotors and pads (Centric Premium rots, OEM Mazda pads)
Just did a coolant flush - put in new thermostat and coolant temp sensor as well.
Installed new fan relay
Replaced cooling fan with lower mileage unit.
Tires have plenty of tread.
New battery in August
The following modifications are installed, most done after 50k:
Turbolife FMIC
Injen SRI (new AEM filter)
Split Second AFC
ApexR1 2.5" catted j-mid pipe
Greddy sp2 catback
Falken Factory Tuned lowering springs (rebadged Eibach Pro Kit)
Kartboy short shifter and shiftger rod bushings
Corksport bronzeoil shifter linkage bushings
Prosport Boost and Wideband gauges (some of the leds on the gauge have burned out)
ApexR1 air diversion panel
Medieval rear motor mount
RR racing front mm inserts
AWR side mm inserts
AAC bumper sag brackets (not installed)
Things to note:
The Turbolife FMIC required complete removal of the crash bar, the kit came with its own crash bar. Drive on the street at your own risk, standard disclaimer stuff, etc. I have the original crash bar, IC and piping, so if you want to go back to the original setup, I can include them with the car.
Its a protege, so things squeak and rattle. Due to the upgraded motor mounts, the vibrations inside the cabin increase a lot when cruising in neutral with the AC on. I have the original rear motor mount, its in good shape, you can have it if you want.
Rear sway bar bushings sqeak, as is common with these cars. I used to lube them every few months, but gave up. You might want to replace them at some point.
There is a small chunk of paint missing from the underside of the rear lip, I bought it that way and a little more paint gets chipped away with time.
Obvisouly no warranty, all sales are final.
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