2002 Mazda P5. Why did I..

[wolleymp5]

I have a similar on-going (fight) problem i've gone through a couple things and this is what you could try or see my thread for more details.

1) try the vacuum leak check
2) Make sure the gasket for the EGR is placed nice and tight so no air leak there. Also the EGR might just need to be changed can be had new for 90$.
3) then clean IAC, if you need to replace it this is about $210
4) change MAF (maybe get one from the for sale section) or clean it with MAF cleaner they sell it.
5) Clean Throttle body (throttle body cleaner spray)
6) change your air filter if it hasn't been changed.
7) Seafoam it <----helped me the most


there's more possibilities which which i'm still working on.

 

[bazooka joe]

i vote vac leak...i've had my intake come off under heavy boost (6psihaha) several times and sounds just like what you're describing

 

[destineal]

I challenge you Joe

 

[bazooka joe]

Let's do it!

 

[616Nickel]

Are the fuel pumps loud on a 2002 Protege5? For some reason, I don't think its suppose to be this loud.

I can't hear my P5's fuel pump at all, but my Nissan Quest's pump is buzzing loudly, so I'm getting ready to replace it. If yours is loud, many of your symptoms might be consistent with a failing pump.

 

[tweety2300]

I can barely hear the one on my Honda the one on my 323 is loudish but the one on my protege is quiet although its not the same as a p5

 

[616Nickel]

You know, I just re-read your symptoms, and that really sounds like a bad fuel pump.

- Noise or buzzing from the region of the gas tank.
- Starts fine when cold, then begins to sputter as it warms up.
- Idles erratically, then bails on you when you step on the pedal.
- Misfiring at higher rpms.

It might also explain why your test drive was OK: First of all, you were probably driving the car cold. Secondly, pumps can take a long time to die--my Quest's pump has been buzzing for months, and it still drives fine, though I'm really playing with fire by procrastinating. The previous owner might have gotten used to the noise, not knowing what it was, only to have it die as soon as you took ownership.

On my Quest, I'll have to drop the tank to get to the pump, but I understand that many Japanese cars have access panels. Not sure about the P5.

 

[TrippleXCA]

You know, I just re-read your symptoms, and that really sounds like a bad fuel pump.

- Noise or buzzing from the region of the gas tank.
- Starts fine when cold, then begins to sputter as it warms up.
- Idles erratically, then bails on you when you step on the pedal.
- Misfiring at higher rpms.

It might also explain why your test drive was OK: First of all, you were probably driving the car cold. Secondly, pumps can take a long time to die--my Quest's pump has been buzzing for months, and it still drives fine, though I'm really playing with fire by procrastinating. The previous owner might have gotten used to the noise, not knowing what it was, only to have it die as soon as you took ownership.

On my Quest, I'll have to drop the tank to get to the pump, but I understand that many Japanese cars have access panels. Not sure about the P5.

My P5 has the panel. I actually just did the fuel pump today. However.... Now I can't even get it to start.
The pump is running. And man is it much quieter!! Yay for that.
But like I said. Now I can't even get it to start up.
I damn near burned my starter out trying all day.

I did take the hose off of the sending unit.(I think thats what its called, the part the the pump goes into)
Hooked up another piece of line so I could run it out the door and watch it come out.
Well. It comes out. But doesn't SHOOT out the end.

I was under the impression that when you turn the key over "WITHOUT STARTING IT", that the pump should kick in?
This is not the case with my P5. Infact. It doesn't kick in until after I start the car, Even then, No fuel comes out of the hose until I let off on the key..... Is this correct? Or is something F'd up?

 

[TrippleXCA]

Is it possible that I have a wrong Fuel Pump?
Its a Boche. Thats all I know. My sister works at Carquest. I just gave her the info, she gave me a price. and off I went.

 

[kcbhiw]

Why didn't you change the o2 sensor, or did you? When my o2 sensor was bad, it would bog down, misfire, and then take off like a bat outta hell after I reached a certain rpm.

+1 I had the exact same problem.

TrippleXCA, just replace the O2 sensor. Your ECU is throwing you codes telling you that it's bad. Also, you can get away with a generic O2 sensor for $40-$50 less than what you mentioned.

 

[hotcracker69]

ALL protege should replace their intake tube by now. regardless if they are rip or not, with the age of our vehicle is bound to happen at anytime now.

 

[RicoP5]

you cleaned the maf?

+1 I had the exact same problem.

TrippleXCA, just replace the O2 sensor. Your ECU is throwing you codes telling you that it's bad. Also, you can get away with a generic O2 sensor for $40-$50 less than what you mentioned.

from where i need one...

 

[TrippleXCA]

I got the car running. Sending unit was bad. Wasn't getting a tight seal. I bought a new one at a junkyard for $65. As pose to the $371 I was quoted, and thats at cost from my sister who works at Carquest. lol

I have 2 codes showing now tho.
P0037
P0140

From what I can gather. They are both o2 sensor codes?

 

[RicoP5]

^ just replied to that on ur other thread