20 HP Gain without any tools required!!!

Did anyone do this to a 1.6? If so, post some pictures of it because this is hard reading about it and then going to look in my engine and then completely forgetting what I just read, haha.
 
jeg0024 said:
Yeah, we didnt really feel much right after the install but it was definately breathing better, I haven't talked to him sence but im sure its helping out a lot now after putting some miles on the thing. Everything acually lined up good though, had no fitment issues.

Hey, you're definitely not on the sales team! (sssh) Well, they're saying they got a 20-something hp gain when they took it to the dyno. Good to hear that everything goes where it's supposed to. There are plenty of times when things don't.
 
desperado-c said:
Hey, you're definitely not on the sales team! (sssh) Well, they're saying they got a 20-something hp gain when they took it to the dyno. Good to hear that everything goes where it's supposed to. There are plenty of times when things don't.

Well id have to say it was my first time going for a ride in anything with a turbo other than a truck. But yeah, no fitment issues at all:) It might take a bit of time, but it fits lol.
 
Gipper76 said:
Did anyone do this to a 1.6? If so, post some pictures of it because this is hard reading about it and then going to look in my engine and then completely forgetting what I just read, haha.
as i said b4, i took everything that was in front of the air filter box (2 big pieces of plastic),and i drop a K&N filter in the box.
 

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french02chris said:
as i said b4, i took everything that was in front of the air filter box (2 big pieces of plastic),and i drop a K&N filter in the box.

yep, works just as well as a sri
 
tsunami said:
my god this thread sucks.. try to keep it on topic whatever it was.. .something about a 1.6l protege right?


I think tsunami took out the wrong filter and is falling victim to exhaust fumes entering the passenger compartment :D
 
I don't mean to be an @ss (Wait, yes i do) BUT why in the hell is someone posting up air box mods for a 1.6 protege? Shouldn't that info be in the protege Threads not here in the MS3 threads.

Everyone should know by now that ALL stock airboxes are restrictive. Hell on my SVO a drop in K&N airfilter is worth 15WHP. and removing the damn airbox inplace with a cone filter added a total of 22WHP.
SO its not surprising that the MS3 would react the same as other turbo cars do to reduced restriction in the intake tract.

As for Hot air in the engine bay, well you could always run Dryer ducting or something similiar from behind the bumper or??? up to the Airbox for a ram air effect. Stil would also keep you from sucking up water into the engine.
 
Mocoso said:
I think tsunami took out the wrong filter and is falling victim to exhaust fumes entering the passenger compartment :D


lol it was sarcasm but i think it was lost on most in this thread.... and how/why the 1.6l airbox mod keeps being brought up is beyond me... but i am glad to see the thread back on track and a healthy discussion going... though i am going to have to say using dryer hose and a do it yourself cai isn't always the best idea... i would suggest spending the money on an actual intake or better tmic as the two seem to be almost the same price... (hand)
 
And there she goes back off topic.


This thread is about the MS3 air box.

There is much to be said about opening the restriction in the intake. One of those things is the noise that it makes that is why Mazda and all auto mfgs put all that crap on there. That is also why they call the lower part that most often is in the wheel well the resonator box. It reduces the noise of the motor sucking air. So this mod for us (car enthusiasts) is ok and worth it. We like the sound of our cars and the performance that come with it.
 
With my brief experience with MAF maters, i can say that a CAI is not always the best. Especially when you have to relocate the sensor into a tube.
If you think about the stock setup it has the meter right on the airbox. Change the sensor location and you will change the way the meter measures the air. Now it may not change it enough to cause problems. the ECU maybe be able to adapt enough to compensate for the higher volume of air.

Getting a K&N airfilter and running a 4" air duct from the front of the car to the airbox wouldn't change the way the MAF meter is setup to measure air.It will allow more air flow though through the same components.

I did a nice little test on my SVO with my meter due to a MAF conversion, and i was shocked to see how much the meter can vary its measurements for vibration and different size tubing.

Example. my MAF was setup originally to have the meter on a few couplers going straight to the Turbo. A/F was set at 11.5 /1 across the board. one issue i had was idle and, off turbo decel. the car would stumble and die (BPV installed not a BOV). MAF voltage at idle would vary from .9-1.4 volts Idling.
After taking the same meter and adding a flexable hose that was .5" shorter in diameter and 1.5' long, i was able to isolate vibration and smooth the airflow through the meter. Now with no computer changes and i have a lean condition in upper rpms. As lean as 13.2/1 A/F. (WBO2 in car). BUT at idle the MAF read a steady .88-.92 volts at idle and the car DOES idle better. (must retune for top end.)

My point is a CAI will work, could it throw a CEL, depends on how much the computer can compensate. Would a modded airbox with ducting work? Sure would, and would be less likely to throw a CEL. It would also allow the MAF to Measure the air correctly since its parameters didn't change.

Now can you run a 4" tube from the front of the car to the airbox, umm i dunno i haven't looked hard enough. Either way you choose to go, the end result is more air for the ENGINE to pump, thus more power. One last note, most people perfer the look of a CAI. :D

sorry for the novel. ;)
 
SO!!! If I get this right, they took the top off to free up the air flow. RIGHT? Is so is it safe to say getting a CAI would give you 20hp? That is basically the same thing but even better because you don't get the hot air.

Sorry if someone already asked this, I'm at work and cant read the whole thread.
 
justa4banger said:
With my brief experience with MAF maters, i can say that a CAI is not always the best. Especially when you have to relocate the sensor into a tube.
If you think about the stock setup it has the meter right on the airbox. Change the sensor location and you will change the way the meter measures the air. Now it may not change it enough to cause problems. the ECU maybe be able to adapt enough to compensate for the higher volume of air.

....

My point is a CAI will work, could it throw a CEL, depends on how much the computer can compensate. Would a modded airbox with ducting work? Sure would, and would be less likely to throw a CEL. It would also allow the MAF to Measure the air correctly since its parameters didn't change.

That's why you buy the CP-E or Mazdaspeed. They are very unlikely to throw a CEL. Nothing against ducting and all that, I admire the spirit of doing that. But on my almost brand new MS3, I'd rather spend the money to have a nice, clean install with a dedicated part.
 
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Hughes412 said:
SO!!! If I get this right, they took the top off to free up the air flow. RIGHT? Is so is it safe to say getting a CAI would give you 20hp? That is basically the same thing but even better because you don't get the hot air.

Sorry if someone already asked this, I'm at work and cant read the whole thread.

CPE says 19 hp, and Street Unit claims they got 23 or something like that. I don't think they posted the charts yet, though.
 
I will try the ducting route just to see if its worth it. on that same note i won't go to crazy cause i don't like hacking up OEM parts, just in case i need them later for warranty stuff.

If the Mazda speed CAI comes out resonably priced i might opt that route.
Either way you go, there is a gain to be had. Cheap way will work and LOOK cheap. CAI wil look nice and work also, IF its designed correctly and DOESN'T throw a CEL.
 
justa4banger said:
I will try the ducting route just to see if its worth it. on that same note i won't go to crazy cause i don't like hacking up OEM parts, just in case i need them later for warranty stuff.

If the Mazda speed CAI comes out resonably priced i might opt that route.
Either way you go, there is a gain to be had. Cheap way will work and LOOK cheap. CAI wil look nice and work also, IF its designed correctly and DOESN'T throw a CEL.
Hope I'm not breaking any rules but there is a GB on the Mazdaspeed 3 CAI going on NOW for $310 - delivered + you get the mazda cleaning kit FREE
Sweet deal. Plus you get Mazda's green warranty on the CAI.

Am I allowed to mention where ? :)
 
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flyrevs said:
Hope I'm not breaking any rules but there is a GB on the Mazdaspeed 3 CAI going on NOW for $310 - delivered + you get the mazda cleaning kit FREE
Sweet deal. Plus you get Mazda's green warranty on the CAI.

Am I allowed to mention where ? :)


I guess this is a good of a place as any.
I'll wait on the purchase, till more reviews from people come back. i want to know whats its like in higher altitude , Freezing temps Summer heat etc........ then maybe i'll buy one. MAYBE
 
(five-0)OK here it is Group Buy Mazdaspeed 3 CAI for
$310 delivered:(first)

Well I can't use a link. (five-0) So PM me for top secret details.

(huh)
 
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