awsmp5 said:yay physics i freakin hate that class
orphman said:one would assume... an i know ass u me.. etc .. but assume.. lets say you have 8 paritcles of air in a 2.5 inch part... as temp decrease the particels will become closer no..?. .. not more air or less air... just more dense... so i would assume.. to keep presure you would want larger on hot side... cooler on cold.. i could be totaly wrong but... i dunno.. that make any sense..?
think about it... but then again... maybe im missing something.. wich would nto be a first... (enguard)
awsmp5 said:yeah thats how i was thinking...
but i dunno much about turboing cars so maybe we're missing something
hotrodf1 said:all three of us are thinking the same, but it does not necessarily mean that we see all the angles of course.
I have been trying to think of why we might want the small pipe on the turbo side, but I can't quite get it.
Maybe a physics major could do some good. used to know one. Haven't spoken to him in years. nows probably not the time. . . .
I would like to see someone try the 2.5" tube from turbo to IC and then the 2" to the TB. maybe that someone is me. I dunno.
khaosman said:Since this thread is alive, I'll throw this in. What do you guys use to cut the piping while you are piecing it together? hacksaw? That seems like it'd suck, but I guess it'd work...
hotrodf1 said:Hey guys,
I have been thinking about doing a DIY style FMIC sometime in the near future. It seems like most of the piping kits are in the 2.5" alum tubing. But when I look at the pics of most of the branded kits, the piping looks like it might just be 2.0". Can anyone suggest whether 2 or 2.5" tubing would be best for no more than 10psi on stock internals motor??
It seems the 2.0" would offer less turbo lag for sure, since the volume to fill would be quite a bit smaller I think.
From my meager math skills it looks as if sizing up from 2.0 to 2.5 increasing the volume inside the piping by a whopping 56%.
what do you guys think??
Right, right, Ideal gas law. That what was on my mind when I posted, because of the direct proportionality of what we were talking about, anyone else care to chime in on how this works in the real world?hotrodf1 said:He's right . . .
remember from physics . . .
PV = nRT (IIRC, its been 8 or 9 years for my old ass)
Pressure * volume = n *r * T(temp)
So, if the temp goes down (after the IC) the equation shows that either the 1) pressure must fall, or 2) the volume must decrease.
We know the pressure should be close to the same before the IC as it as after the IC (maybe within a 1psi or so??), so with the same mass of air in the system, that only leaves the volume, which will be smaller.
This is why I thought the bigger pipe should carry the hotter air, which would be a larger volume (by weight) than the cold, dense air.
I said air contracted when cooled, not expanded and rose. The reason a hot-air balloon fills, is because the heated air expands and fills it out, no?505zoom said:If cool air was lighter and thinner than hot air, then we would use cold air in "hot-air baloons", no?![]()
PlatinumMSP said:use 2.25" piping like the Perrin kit
mryellermp5 said:go to ur local home pot store or tool rental place and rent a metal chop saw..the one u pull down on (miter saw)..with a metal cutting blade on it...