Darth Vader
Member
1. PM Me for plans.
2. Instructions/recommendations:
Cut a 2" by 3-3/4" piece of 1/4" plate steel. Drill the holes as the plan indicates. I tapped the hole for the ball stud using a 17/64" tap drill and a 5/16" NC tap. You could just drill it a little bigger and nut it from the bottom if you don't have and tap and die set.
The ball stud can be sourced at an RV parts place. They use these 10mm ball studs as mounts for hydraulic hatch struts.
The placement of the ball stud can be moved around a bit to alter the centre point of the shifter. I placed it just so when the shifter in going into second, fourth and sixth it's just a little past vertical. If you want more rearward centre point, move the ball stud a touch forward (toward front of car) of my location. A little means ALOT here.
The relief hole in the middle of the plate gives room for the stock ball stud and helps locate the shift plate. Don't drill all the way through here, just til you reach the flutes of the drill bit. The stock ball stud will sit in that recess and locate the shift plate more securely.
You can use stock bolts to mount this, either with the weight on or nuts to replace but, they are a touch short. I'd recommend getting some longer ones to account for the thickness of the shift plate.
I have set up this plate to move the cable as far to the driver's side as possible.
Bracket holes are 21/64ths to start and open to 11/32 if tight. Relief depression is made with a 3/8ths drill. Ball stud hole as indicated above.
You're going to have to pull the airbox...if anyone still has one...to do this but, with a CAI, I didn't even have to take that off. Just be careful not to ding your nice aluminium CAI pipes with your steel tools.
In the interests of shortening the the throw as much as I could, I put the ball stud hole as far from the mounts as possible. I see that in the back gears, the ball end very slightly touches the other shift lever. Nothing untoward happens but, if you want that contact eliminated, best move the ball stud hole in another 1/16" or 1/8", at the expense of a bit more shift throw over mine.
2. Instructions/recommendations:
Cut a 2" by 3-3/4" piece of 1/4" plate steel. Drill the holes as the plan indicates. I tapped the hole for the ball stud using a 17/64" tap drill and a 5/16" NC tap. You could just drill it a little bigger and nut it from the bottom if you don't have and tap and die set.
The ball stud can be sourced at an RV parts place. They use these 10mm ball studs as mounts for hydraulic hatch struts.
The placement of the ball stud can be moved around a bit to alter the centre point of the shifter. I placed it just so when the shifter in going into second, fourth and sixth it's just a little past vertical. If you want more rearward centre point, move the ball stud a touch forward (toward front of car) of my location. A little means ALOT here.
The relief hole in the middle of the plate gives room for the stock ball stud and helps locate the shift plate. Don't drill all the way through here, just til you reach the flutes of the drill bit. The stock ball stud will sit in that recess and locate the shift plate more securely.
You can use stock bolts to mount this, either with the weight on or nuts to replace but, they are a touch short. I'd recommend getting some longer ones to account for the thickness of the shift plate.
I have set up this plate to move the cable as far to the driver's side as possible.
Bracket holes are 21/64ths to start and open to 11/32 if tight. Relief depression is made with a 3/8ths drill. Ball stud hole as indicated above.
You're going to have to pull the airbox...if anyone still has one...to do this but, with a CAI, I didn't even have to take that off. Just be careful not to ding your nice aluminium CAI pipes with your steel tools.
In the interests of shortening the the throw as much as I could, I put the ball stud hole as far from the mounts as possible. I see that in the back gears, the ball end very slightly touches the other shift lever. Nothing untoward happens but, if you want that contact eliminated, best move the ball stud hole in another 1/16" or 1/8", at the expense of a bit more shift throw over mine.
