2.0t03speed
Member
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- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
yes im going to be ordering my 1mm oversized valves from sam next week why?
2.0t03speed
- Thread starter sephiroth
- Start date
Just curious because that's the source of your oil burning problem. I think I'll going to stick with stock-sized valves, etc. but get the head completely worked and maybe some slightly more aggressive cams. Same with the block, stock compression and rod length. I plan on going about as far as I can go without having to utilize a standalone to control timing. Not looking for big power, just somewhere between 250 and 300 whp safely and I will be happy.
2.0t03speed
Member
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- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
hmmm ive been wondering lately if it was actually my valve seals or if i actually blew a ring. either way i have a new block and head in my garage thats going to be going in so when i put the new one in ill take apart the old one and find out what made it fail.
2.0t03speed
Member
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- 08.5 CWP Speed 3
im actually not going to be using a standalone im going to go the mpi route
gt2871? LOLGo big turbowe need more big turbo msps on the forum!!
the stock valve seals are not made for high revving. Mine were goneafter only 20k of aggressive driving with only 70k on the clock( got thecar with 50k) and that's with a n/a engine on 3k mobile1 changes. So I'm sure yours are at least deteoraited to the point where they leak a bit. The good news is toga performer seals are only $60 for a set. I think I got mine from somwhere like importperformanceparts.com or some generic sounding site like that.
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Sure, but I'm not a huge fan of internal wastegates because they don't hold boost as well as external wastegates.You could always have the flapper valve welded shut, I've heard of people doing that before.
umm.. yeah, when I said complicated mantiance, this is what I was talking about, this was a ; timming belt, tensioner(all 4..), serpentine belt, water pump belt, A/C belt, water pump, water pump housing, turbocharger inlet hose, both oil cooler hoses, turbocharger outlet hose, radiator hose (both), coolant flush, MTX oil job, rear diff oil job, oil pump and feed line (common place where sludge builds up in these engines.) Brake fluid flush, spark plugs, and general engine bay cleaning all rolled into one. This is what the car looked like midway through. Most of the bolts I removed had corroded to the point of almost breaking while trying to remove them, so some 45 bolts/nuts were replaced as well. 8 years in ohio/pennsylvania had taken their toll. The white crap is just absorband to soak up the coolant I spilled on the floor. which, btw.. is $38.75 a gallon from the dealership
kind of interesting job, it's the first slant I4 engine I've worked on.
edit: yipeee! ECU arrived chipped today!
kind of interesting job, it's the first slant I4 engine I've worked on.
edit: yipeee! ECU arrived chipped today!
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