1st Mods

LBM Turbo

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MazdaSpeed Protege
I just got my MSP a month ago. I am looking to do some performance mods. I have already installed a turbo timer, and i am curious of what mods i should do 1st.

Also what mods are out there for our car.
 
you can get a replacement midpipe for just a few bucks..that should free up a few hp's quick. drop a set of colder pulgs, and add a few gauges for later upgrades..
 
do lots of searches. exhaust is probably best to start with. also intake at some point. other small things could be changing tranny fluid to redline or changing the shifter bushings.
 
I gave my MSP viagra, now it's performance is unreal. Keep me and the ladies satisfied.


-Ryan
 
Take back the turbo timer and get a CAI, and a Boost controller. That's all ya need. Crank her to 9.5 PSI and drive like a human.
 
the turbo timer isnt a bad idea. if you dont like to sit in the car for an extra 30 seconds then you might would like one. sure its not going to hurt your car to turn it off real quick but if you want to keep the engine in good condition for the long run you might want it. you can get a cold air intake for very cheap, and the midpipe must go. when you free up the airflow in these cars they love it. then of corse you will need the usual gauges, boost, air/fuel....so you can later on put in the boost controller and all that fun stuff. shifter bushing do make it feel better to some but find someone with them and try them out i know a few people who prefer it stock.
 
Man, I have seen like 10 of these thread in the past week. Do some searching around, there is already so much information, and this question has been asked to death.

There is a Modders Guide sticky in the main MSP section, but last time I checked it was pretty outdated. Maybe an update of that thread would help. There are so many options of mods available for our cars.
 
Oh, I have a cai, and I don't beleive it really did much. I agree that midpipe(the part of the exhaust with the cats) should be replaced first, and if you can afford it go with a full turboback. Then upgrade the IC to aftermarket SMIC or FMIC and then play with the boost a bit. Don't forget colder plugs, and look into controlling afr ratios and/or timing if you wanna up the boost very much. Might be looking at a new clutch too if you gain enough power.
 
colder plugs, exhaust, cai, hardpipes, header, bov, act clutch, a/f wideband, forged internals, fmic, ebc then ems. after that your set to go...not recommended unless warranty is of no concern. set your boost level to 12-13 psi and rock on. also not recommended until you have the supporting mods. do some searching on these forums and find good product at good prices. then when your cash flow builds up again, get a bigger turbo. in no way am i insinuating to do this than go street racing.....go to the track, its supervised and safe, not to mention time slips don't lie. good luck and enjoy your msp. hey even if you don't race....the power will be there when you need it. keep us informed on your progress..if you search and can't find, don't be scared to ask questions...if you don't know or not sure..someone on here does know and is sure.
 
id say the first mod would be DSM's afc controller. Cheaper or the same price as a CAI, provides the tuning to run higher boost SAFELY. I mean, at 10psi they gained 50 lb/tq and 20hp w/ a stock engine and a CAI.

For 350 bucks (if you got a mbc) you would have a smooth powerline, no hessitation, stuttering, etc. and a gain of more than a 1300.00 turboback. Not to mention your engine will last MUCH longer with the revised A/F ratios.
 
First, you might want to think about the goal of the car. Theres a ton of parts out there, dependent on the plan for your msp. For instance, you might only want 190-200whp, so you might not need as much$$$ for mods as someone that wants 250+. Figure out your goal, then do some searches, then if you still can't find your answer, post a few more.
 
lbm_turbo, maybe think about what kind of goals you want with your car and go from there. you want a car that will pull .95 g's? a car that makes 300 whp? or something a little more modest. as you start to upgrade more, you have to spend more money to make less power.
 
daedalus said:
id say the first mod would be DSM's afc controller. Cheaper or the same price as a CAI, provides the tuning to run higher boost SAFELY. I mean, at 10psi they gained 50 lb/tq and 20hp w/ a stock engine and a CAI.

For 350 bucks (if you got a mbc) you would have a smooth powerline, no hessitation, stuttering, etc. and a gain of more than a 1300.00 turboback. Not to mention your engine will last MUCH longer with the revised A/F ratios.


so your saying that with the DSM afc, you can turn up the fuel ratio to defend against detonation under boost? wouldent this kill the need for forged rods at low boost levels, 10psi and under? perhaps even 11 or 12?
cause the car runs very rich to start, not so rich as to give a wide powerband to choose from, but if the afc can make it run even richer, woulnt this solve some problems at low boost?

i mean, unless im reading everything wrong, the engines pretty strong (someone mentioned the strongest on the current market somewhere) minus the advanced timing and fuel cuts from that cranky b**** we call an ECU.
 
i think it depends. at 11-12 psi and the correct a/f ratio, you're reaching the max duty cycle of the injectors. you'd need bigger and/or extra injectors. and even then, you'd probably be walking on thin ice with the stock internals.
 
Obsidian said:
so your saying that with the DSM afc, you can turn up the fuel ratio to defend against detonation under boost? wouldent this kill the need for forged rods at low boost levels, 10psi and under? perhaps even 11 or 12?
cause the car runs very rich to start, not so rich as to give a wide powerband to choose from, but if the afc can make it run even richer, woulnt this solve some problems at low boost?

i mean, unless im reading everything wrong, the engines pretty strong (someone mentioned the strongest on the current market somewhere) minus the advanced timing and fuel cuts from that cranky b**** we call an ECU.
Running richer is one way of reducing the risk of detonation, but even without detonation, the forces generated from normal combustion can easily blow a rod, since the stock ones are the weakest point of our engines. There is only so much power our rods can handle before they start to bend. I think people have said that 200-220whp is around the danger zone, but those numbers might be off.
 
I have seen this car with stock internals dyno well over 220 and that was at like 12 psi. I would say that the range of these internals would more like 250. b/c if it isnt i will be blowin mine soon
 
deaconfan34 said:
I have seen this car with stock internals dyno well over 220 and that was at like 12 psi. I would say that the range of these internals would more like 250. b/c if it isnt i will be blowin mine soon


every engine is a diffrent cranky b****. like some people on this board have blown stock msp engines.

i suppose i could make a safer engine if i were to run the car rich to help defend against detonation, and probably get a set of stock rods and have them shot peen'd, mayhaps that might make them strong enough to take 10psi and below?
 

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