Switched back to the stock BPV tonight just to try it out and while having the forge off I started to wonder if Ive had it right all these years. Ive got blue+2 and during hard shifts I do not hear a flutter. However at partial throttle when I let off the gas I get a flutter everytime in the upper gears, not so much in the lowers....what exactly does this mean? more shims? less shims? blue? red? yellow? Ive read so many things and am so confused. The stock BPV feels smooth and is nice and quiet but I do feel the doggyness that people refer to...im not much of a racer anyway so I might just keep it on there...just wanted the correct answer before I consider dumping the forge on the marketplace. Thanks!
1st Gen Forge BPV
- Thread starter SHAGwagn
- Start date
Silver Ecstasy
Member
- :
- 11 MS3 Sport
Blue + 2 makes life real difficult for smooth, slower driving. For faster, quicker shifts, this is ideal. I typically had Blue + 0 or Yellow + 2 when I had the Forge.
Since I got rid of it, stocker works just fine, and you really feel the car building boost, rather than the valve snapping shut and feeling doggy as all hell.
Since I got rid of it, stocker works just fine, and you really feel the car building boost, rather than the valve snapping shut and feeling doggy as all hell.
I think thats it...I couldnt put my finger on it...it just felt smoother. I think ill join you and just leave it on...im granny driving/shifting 90% of the time anyway...I dont know if I'm getting older or just tired of the car..but I just dont drive it the way I used to. Thanks for the quick reply
Silver Ecstasy
Member
- :
- 11 MS3 Sport
No prob! I'm considering picking up a used Forge, but I remember, I wasn't exactly impressed with the "power". People claim it picks up some ungodly huge number of boost or it's 1000x more efficient at holding boost.
I personally think its a little bit of a crock of s***. I can push 17psi with my Cobb SRI + TIP in 6th. My Forge + MSCAI never did s*** other than crap on my boost targets with a 12 or 13 psi here or there.
Seemed like it was more trouble than it was worth. Stock seems to be just fine and very forgiving. It just doesn't release boost as quickly on hard shifts and the rpms seem to float ever so lightly.
I personally think its a little bit of a crock of s***. I can push 17psi with my Cobb SRI + TIP in 6th. My Forge + MSCAI never did s*** other than crap on my boost targets with a 12 or 13 psi here or there.
Seemed like it was more trouble than it was worth. Stock seems to be just fine and very forgiving. It just doesn't release boost as quickly on hard shifts and the rpms seem to float ever so lightly.
Silver Ecstasy
Member
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- 11 MS3 Sport
Don't sell it yet. Turbo.Inlet.Pipe. Best thing to add to an intake. Smoothes out flow big time.
I've been trying to tell people how well-designed the stock BPV is and most just seem compelled to mess around with other valves just because "someone" has them convinced that the stock valve is a POS. It is NOT.
And let's not get into the "I want a louder sound" argument. If you have an aftermarket intake, the stock BPV is very noticable. If you want more, just go BOV and screw up your AFR's but good just to sound like a juvenile making armpit farts.
The stock BPV may not be as "lively" under certain conditions as a hard set forge, but I cannot make my stock BPV leak. Even with a catless dp/rp, I'm able to hold higher boost than the damn ECU will allow in cold weather.
I'm not trying to say the stock BPV is the best product ever made. I am saying that the damn thing works and works well, and I'd rather spend money on mods that build power.
And let's not get into the "I want a louder sound" argument. If you have an aftermarket intake, the stock BPV is very noticable. If you want more, just go BOV and screw up your AFR's but good just to sound like a juvenile making armpit farts.
The stock BPV may not be as "lively" under certain conditions as a hard set forge, but I cannot make my stock BPV leak. Even with a catless dp/rp, I'm able to hold higher boost than the damn ECU will allow in cold weather.
I'm not trying to say the stock BPV is the best product ever made. I am saying that the damn thing works and works well, and I'd rather spend money on mods that build power.
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If the stocker is so well designed than why didn't companies remake it in a "non plastic" form??
The stocker definately peforms better under DD conditions. Smoother ride all around. But under boost my forge responds much better. Its night and day. The stocker just feels sluggish.
The stocker definately peforms better under DD conditions. Smoother ride all around. But under boost my forge responds much better. Its night and day. The stocker just feels sluggish.
I thought it was night and day when I had mine on.. Every spring on the forge is way stronger than the stock valve so when you get on it and you get that big let off during shifting it makes it seem like the motor is pulling harder. I am able to reach the same PSI through the gears as the forge with the stock one. I know it's not necessarily supposed to give you more, jdt saying the stock valve not leaking.
I swapped it back to the stock one mainly because of the smoothness but I have noticed under every driving scenario the engine load is lighter with the stock valve. It's also easier to spool up. And I mean the calculated number that is on the dashhawk.
I think ideally I would want the forge back if I could have a lghter spring (green maybe) but until then I am going with the stocker. Basically give me an aftermarket stock valve, So I know the thing isn't leaking.
I swapped it back to the stock one mainly because of the smoothness but I have noticed under every driving scenario the engine load is lighter with the stock valve. It's also easier to spool up. And I mean the calculated number that is on the dashhawk.
I think ideally I would want the forge back if I could have a lghter spring (green maybe) but until then I am going with the stocker. Basically give me an aftermarket stock valve, So I know the thing isn't leaking.
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Silver Ecstasy
Member
- :
- 11 MS3 Sport
I've said that to all my local guys about the Forge, and no one believed me. Then I found one of the o-rings was torn, so I assumed that was the reason my car didn't feel as fast as everyone else's cars. But every time i'd go back to the stock valve, I enjoyed the car more.
Basically, that valve slaps shut at the slightest inclination of throttle, and it almost seems to ruin any "spool" whatsoever. For example, I could mash the throttle at 3k with the stock valve and the car actually builds boost and pushes you back in the seat. With the Forge at 3k, i'd just hear louder exhaust drone as the turbo "tries" to build boost. Never felt any stronger or faster.
I've since given up on the aftermarket valves all together. Doesn't make a freakin difference and I still hit higher PSI with the stock valve than I do with any aftermarket. I will only say the Forge released faster between shifts. My rpms tend to float no matter how I let off the throttle in between shifts with the stock valve.
OH, and when I had the Forge, if I ever went WOT and let off abruptly, the engine would feel like it yanked back and forth hardcore under release. With stock, that never happens. If I go WOT and let off at higher rpm, it just releases. No violent yanking or snapping of the engine as boost is released.
WhoKnowsWho
Member
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- 2007 Mazdaspeed 3
Haven't really noticed any roughness during granny daily driving with shifts at 3K on the Forge BPV.
Hypnotized
Member
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- 03.5 MS Protege-Gone 07 MS3
my stock bpv wouldnt hold past 15psi and tapered down to 13 when I put an hks it held perfect and never decreased and the same with the forge.
gogogomoveit
Member
I thought Mazda deliberately have the ECU to taper down to 13 to protect from overboosting/spikes? And isnt wastegate the device that is ultimately controlling boost level?
Darth Vader
Member
That's old school thinking. Boost level is controlled in several ways, depending on the situation, in this car, WG, of course, DBW throttle plate closure, BPV, load targets, plus the usual mechanical limits imposed by the blower's map and the motor's cam timing and breathing ability.
gogogomoveit
Member
Good Info. learned something new.
You will get taper down after about 5,800 rpm. That's the ECU closing the throttle plate. As air decreases the boost will taper back also.
But Darth is right about the ECU being far more complicated than just dialing back boost through the wastegate. This ECU is frustratingly smart and seems to have many different ways to either frustrate our efforts to mod for power or to protect the engine from zoom, zoom, boom, depending which way you look at it.
Darth Vader
Member
Yep, despite that there seems to be a surprising volume of "expert level" engine destruction in this community....
