Question didnt your dealer offer the first oil change for free? That way they can get you in the door.
P.S. there are more then just piston rings that need to be broken in and the way that is prescribed through those post it doesnt do anything good for any of those other parts. Just some food for thought. This is just my recommendations.
The only reason I would recommend an OEM filter is because if you're doing your own oil changes, and something happens to an aftermarket filter (it collapses, it clogs, it blocks oil flow in some way) you won't have a warranty leg to stand on. I'm sure the aftermarkets are fine, but using OEM will keep you out of that situation.
Also most aftermarkets are not of the correct size and more expensive, when people put aftermarket oil filters in and come to our dealer the oil filter is slightly squished and twisted and you can see where the filter line squished in, right in the middle. So no you dont have to stay oem, but for the time being untill a company gets the sizing right I would stay factory.
I've seen more than a few posts (some with picures) of Purolators collapsing like jhowey mentioned. They likely still flow, but oil is probably making its way around the filter instead of through it.
The only reason I would recommend an OEM filter is because if you're doing your own oil changes, and something happens to an aftermarket filter (it collapses, it clogs, it blocks oil flow in some way) you won't have a warranty leg to stand on. I'm sure the aftermarkets are fine, but using OEM will keep you out of that situation.
using aftermarket oil filter's won't void your warranty, infact I believe it's illegal in the US to only warrant vehicles that are serviced with OEM parts. Only in the situation where user error and not mechanical error is at fault is there reason to deny warranty service.
using aftermarket oil filter's won't void your warranty, infact I believe it's illegal in the US to only warrant vehicles that are serviced with OEM parts. Only in the situation where user error and not mechanical error is at fault is there reason to deny warranty service.
Where does it say this? In the owner's manual it says to use 5w-20 and to use 5w-30 if 5w-20 is not available. Even the Mobil 1 website recommends 5w-20 for the Mazdaspeed3. I would like to see some confirmation on using 5w-30.
The Mazdaspeed 3 requires 5W30 no matter what the climate. This is stated in the Service Manual and in the owner's manual. The owner's manual in the early cars said 5W20, but it was updated to say 5W30 for the turbo cars late last year.
The Mazdaspeed 3 requires 5W30 no matter what the climate. This is stated in the Service Manual and in the owner's manual. The owner's manual in the early cars said 5W20, but it was updated to say 5W30 for the turbo cars late last year.
Some people (like me) are old school and think there is something to be gained from it. There is no recommendation from Mazda about it, but some feel better flushing break-in products from the oil early.
Look at the 'pros'... look at full blown race cars or the highest of the high end street cars. Why do cars like Porsche, Corvette or just about anything turbocharged RECOMMEND synthetic?
I don't know if the MS3 manual does but I know my SRT-4's manual made a very big deal about recommending synth oil.
The manufacturers know... they have tested it and shown that especially with a turbocharged or very high performance motor, synth protects better.
Don't expect real answers from a forum where everyone thinks they know... do your research by looking at the people who DO know.
And changing oil at 1k miles is a good idea. The break in oil will get dirty pretty quick from all the wear in metal. I changed mind right around 1500 and went with Mobil 1. After that I will go every 5000 miles as recommended in the manual though many people feel you can go longer on good synth oil... I'd rather do it 'by the book' in case any warranty issues ever come up, I have proof that I've been doing the factory recommended maintenance.
