1k Mi. First Oil Change Inquiry.

[gr3y]

So I've hit 1,000 miles.. and I've heard conflicting reports on what oil to use on my speed3.. synth or natural.

Any/all input would be great.

Pros/Cons of using Synth
Pros/Cons of using Natural

and any oil you sugggest.

Much appreciated!

 

[knowledge007]

I don't know man there are really no pros and cons with either. There are just myths that have been proven wrong with the mixture of synth and regular when switching. For some reason my mech recommended that I use regular for the first oil change then go to synth. I just completed my fourth oil change with synth. It just seems to me that the car runs a little smoother with the synth.

 

[gr3y]

I heard stock oil was Motocraft 5w-20 semi-synth.

Maybe I should use that?

This is my first turbo.. so not sure.. couple people have told me not to put synth in until like 5k+.. others have told me that's a myth and to start using synth now..

idk

 

[dkswim]

I like Mobil one fully synthetic. I will go to Mobil one after my first oil change. The reason for not changing to a fully synthetic after the first oil change is, when your engine is broke in small bits of metal are suspended in the oil for the first few oil changes. These particles help in the where in process. Synthetic oil has a lot of detergents in the oil that make the small metal particles bigger so they get trapped in the oil filter, and then your car never gets worn in correctly and your car eats oil and doesnt perform as good as it could. Another good reason for using fully synthetic oil as its resistance to heat regular oil breaks down during hi temperatures, are cars being turbocharged run hotter then N/A engines.

 

[jhowey]

Mazda recommends 5W-30 in our cars. I have been running Redline since 3,000 miles.

 

[gr3y]

I also live in Hawaii.. if the heat and/or stop and go traffic makes a difference.

 

[GoFast]

I run amzoil full synth. I always have in all my cars. Just stick with the proper recommended 5w-30 for warmer climates.

 

[gr3y]

so just go with full synth, then?

any oil filter suggestions?

 

[GoFast]

fram or amsoil

 

[GoFast]

oh yeah, as for the synthetic, yep just switch it. far superior protection

 

[MS3ICA]

synthetic is better, the molecules are stable so they protect much better and absorb heat

 

[jhowey]

so just go with full synth, then?

any oil filter suggestions?

I would go full synth, with Redline Royal Purple or Amsoil, and stay factory with your filter, its the best one out there and it is cheaper then most aftermarkets unless your dealer is a butt.

 

[BlackCherry06]

If you're looking for a slightly less expensive option, Penzoil Platinum returns very good used oil analyses on this engine. Whatever you decide, I highly recommend a full synthetic oil for turbocharged applications. It has a superior resistance to thermal breakdown, prevents sludge and won't leave 'coking' deposits on your turbo bearings if you occasionally do a hot shut down (but don't do it anyway if you can help it).

 

[theurgy]

Royal Purple all the way.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

personally, i would go with just standard dino oil until you his the 5K mile mark, then switch to a synthetic of your choice.

 

[gr3y]

personally, i would go with just standard dino oil until you his the 5K mile mark, then switch to a synthetic of your choice.

wow confusing me more

and i just bought some 5w-30 redline. le-sigh..

I guess i could get an OEM filter.. gotta go down to the dealer to get my plates anyway. But I was going to grab a K&N today after work.. is the OEM one really better?

 

[sephiroth]

wait until 1000 at least, or until the manual says, and you don't want to go off running out and buying some royal purple (or even any synthetic) for the first 5,000 miles really.. most of the engine break in happens the first 1-2.5K miles, but additional break in happens after that as well, and because of that, high VI oils will prevent said break-in because of their high film stregnth, which is never a good thing.. so if you must change your oil using a good quality conventional, such as some valvoline or castrol GTX.

the OEM oil is crappy not because they cheap out on it, but because it needs to be crappy.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

wow, you guyz seem to be very uneducated.

break in doesn't go all the way up to 1.5-2K miles.

the most serious breakin happens within the first 20 miles...lol...go read up on ring sealing

 

[GoFast]

wow confusing me more

and i just bought some 5w-30 redline. le-sigh..

I guess i could get an OEM filter.. gotta go down to the dealer to get my plates anyway. But I was going to grab a K&N today after work.. is the OEM one really better?

understand that I am not meaning to sound cruel here, but you need to stop being so easily swayed in one direction then another if somebody says something different. There are thousands of websites that will educate you on all the different topics that have been made in this post.

The oem filter will work fine and isn't really better, but its not worse than the others. I personally have always run synthetic in all my vehicles. My MS3 was no different. I left the conventional oil in it for the first 1500 miles and switched to full synthetic right away.

instead of just taking every bodys post as the all mighty bible, do a little research on your own and draw your own conclusions

 

[dkswim]

Question didn’t your dealer offer the first oil change for free? That way they can get you in the door.

P.S. there are more then just piston rings that need to be broken in and the way that is prescribed through those post it doesn’t do anything good for any of those other parts. Just some food for thought. This is just my recommendations.