13.4 @ 108mph
- Thread starter Kooldino
- Start date
Damn, good 60 on street tires. I'd say try it on radials, but I don't know if you'll get much better than that. Worth a shot though. That quaiffe really helped out huh?
Kooldino said:
HELL yes!!!! you are traping 108 mph in the 1/4 i dont see ANY reason why you could get into 12's with some work. you are ONLY running 2mph slower in the 1/4 then me in my srt-4. i dont see why you couldnt pull a 12.6-12.9 all depending on how good your 60' is. (thumb)
no, i didnt... i wish i had now though. i ran on falken azenis with the car at full wieght. IIRC my best 60' was 2.1
Kooldino said:Not unless I dumped a LOT more cash into my car. No one with a 3rd gen Protege has ever broken into the 12s on street tires, AFAIK.
Well, I should have my street legal slicks next week, so we'll see.
SWEET!!! i can't wait (thumb) YOU ARE GONNA love how much faster the run's on slicks!!! what tire & size did you get? i run 24.5 x 8.5/15 M&H racemasters and let me tell you.....they hook HARD!! so hard that when i launch i HAVE to make sure both hands are on the wheel. (eekdance)
I think it would be a bette show of what your car can do if you do it with DOT approved tires anyway.
cause it's still a street car with street tires breaking into the 12's.
once you add slicks,it's not that big of a deal.I go to sac speedway,and infineon raceway,I watch 12 and under FWDs all day long.
cause it's still a street car with street tires breaking into the 12's.
once you add slicks,it's not that big of a deal.I go to sac speedway,and infineon raceway,I watch 12 and under FWDs all day long.
Kooldino said:
hahaha... ok here is what i do:
do a NICE long (get those DR's HOT) burn out IN the water box....drop your ebrake and keep smoking them out of the water box.
i like to use my ebrake to stage the lights. i pull up, stage, start to let out my clutch slo0o0o0oow RIGHT at the point of engagement(right when it starts to move the car) hold it right there!!!! this will keep from shocking the tranny when you release the clutch FAST!!!
then pull my ebrake to hold me in place as i get the rev's where i want.
IMHO, i think 5k is too much... i would try 3.5k or 4k (your car might like more or less though) and let the clutch out FAST(not drop) then step into it!
explaining things over the internet>me.... hahah sorry dana! (thumb)
1FASTMP5 said:
This sounds a lot like what I do.
Yup!
Every car varies on the revs. I launch from 4200 on stree tires, so I'm going to want to go higher on slicks.
LOL, it's cool...that sounds like what I do anyway. Good to see we're on the same page.
Got the drag radials in the other day. They look good, but I'm having second thoughts about not getting drag slicks.
Of the three 3rd gen proteges that went 12s, they all had slicks, not drag radials, IIRC.
They also weigh 5lbs more each than my 17" daily driven wheels.
But anyway, they're 225/50/15s on steelies.
Wonder what tire pressure I should run them at...
Of the three 3rd gen proteges that went 12s, they all had slicks, not drag radials, IIRC.
They also weigh 5lbs more each than my 17" daily driven wheels.
But anyway, they're 225/50/15s on steelies.
Wonder what tire pressure I should run them at...
- :
- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
prob like 25-28. but thats just a stab in the dark
- :
- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
25-28 on daily? dang. your gas mileage must suffer but your tires must last a long time. I run like 37 daily, thats why I choose 25-28. dang 17lbs. thats like no airpressure in there to even hold the rims off the ground.
Slipstreams...
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]By Jake Amatisto
jamatisto@fscmag.com[/font][/font] [font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In the '60s, if you wanted to go fast there wasn't much of a choice in tires. It was either full-blown race slicks or crappy stock bias-plies. Like everything in the performance aftermarket, tires have evolved over the decades, and today's race tires are stickier, softer, and far better than they used to be. Hell, today's street tires are better than most full-race tires from 30 years ago! With the introduction of the BFGoodrich Drag Radial roughly ten years ago, racers have been given the choice of a good compromise between streetability and ultimate traction.
Drag Radials (most of them anyway) allow you to drive the car on the street and still have traction that far surpasses a traditional street tire. BFGoodrich and Nitto have long had drag radials, but with the introduction of new tires from Mickey Thompson and M&H, the drag radial world has gotten even more serious. Each tire has its pros and cons, and that's what this story is about: explaining the differences between the four drag radials so that you can make the right choice for your combination and usage.
BFGoodrich Drag Radial
BFG had the first drag radial on the market, and is by far the most commonly used drag radial in heads-up racing. The BFG combines very good traction with a legitimate lifespan when used on the street. How good does this tire hook? The faster cars in the NMRA's BFG-sponsored Drag Radial class are in the 8.30s at 170mph, and in unlimited form, Dwayne Gutridge has run in the 7's on the 315/60-15 BFG! They won't last as long as the standard Comp T/A on the street, but a few thousand miles is not out of the question.
Under Pressure
We know of some racers that run pretty low tire pressures in their drag radials and sometimes it looks like the tires are flat. We asked Todd Steen from BFG what kind of pressures they recommend, Well, people that do a 'John Force' burnout on the tires, we tell them somewhere between 16 and 18 pounds. The biggest thing that we tell them is that if they've been launching on another regular street tire, and let's say you've been launching at 4,500-5,000 rpm, do not go out there (on our tires) and air them down to 17-18 pounds and try to launch at that kind of rpm, because you're going to break something. They'll say, no, no but we tell them that's why they're signing the waiver. They'll come back with their axle in their hand, and they're proud of it! We say, we told you!
Heating the Hides
We know of some racers that absolutely annihilate drag radials in the burnout box, but according to Steen, The compound itself works best at somewhere between 160 and 180 degrees. Now you'll see some of these racers doing these huge burnouts on our tires, and it's all for show. Once you get these tires up to 200 degrees, at that point you're just burning rubber. Now, it will take somebody some real time in test and tune to figure out how much of a burnout it takes to get the tire somewhere around 160-180. In unscientific terms, think about getting a stove up to that temperature and putting your hand on it - that's warm to the touch for sure. It doesn't flat-out burn you, but if someone was to put their hand on the tire after the burnout, you shouldn't be able to just rest your hand on it. If not, you're leaving grip on the table.
Tire Additives?
We've heard that VHT and stuff like that work s well with drag radial compounds so we mentioned that to Steen also. He said, we haven't found anywhere that VHT or any kind of traction compound has worked against us, but it is a street-legal tire, so normal pavement with no additives, it will still work like it's supposed to. For the most part, it should be the same, although it might take some adjustment to the tire pressure to get the most out of the tire. The biggest thing we stress is that because they're street legal, don't leave the track while you're still driving around on 16 or 18 pounds.
Drag Tires in Street Tire Clothing
If drag radials can be run on the street can they be treated like street tires? We queried Steen. Absolutely, they can be rotated, and run against the grain. You won't get extra traction. Preferably, you'll run them in the direction the tread is pointed, but it won't hurt them. As a matter of fact, there are three guys who swear to me that they got better traction when they turned them around. If it works on your car, it works on your car, but in theory it shouldn't make a difference.'
Should answer some questions.
Source: http://www.fscmag.com/techstory/issue1004/techstory1004.html
[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]By Jake Amatisto
jamatisto@fscmag.com[/font][/font] [font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]In the '60s, if you wanted to go fast there wasn't much of a choice in tires. It was either full-blown race slicks or crappy stock bias-plies. Like everything in the performance aftermarket, tires have evolved over the decades, and today's race tires are stickier, softer, and far better than they used to be. Hell, today's street tires are better than most full-race tires from 30 years ago! With the introduction of the BFGoodrich Drag Radial roughly ten years ago, racers have been given the choice of a good compromise between streetability and ultimate traction.
Drag Radials (most of them anyway) allow you to drive the car on the street and still have traction that far surpasses a traditional street tire. BFGoodrich and Nitto have long had drag radials, but with the introduction of new tires from Mickey Thompson and M&H, the drag radial world has gotten even more serious. Each tire has its pros and cons, and that's what this story is about: explaining the differences between the four drag radials so that you can make the right choice for your combination and usage.
BFGoodrich Drag Radial
BFG had the first drag radial on the market, and is by far the most commonly used drag radial in heads-up racing. The BFG combines very good traction with a legitimate lifespan when used on the street. How good does this tire hook? The faster cars in the NMRA's BFG-sponsored Drag Radial class are in the 8.30s at 170mph, and in unlimited form, Dwayne Gutridge has run in the 7's on the 315/60-15 BFG! They won't last as long as the standard Comp T/A on the street, but a few thousand miles is not out of the question.
Under Pressure
We know of some racers that run pretty low tire pressures in their drag radials and sometimes it looks like the tires are flat. We asked Todd Steen from BFG what kind of pressures they recommend, Well, people that do a 'John Force' burnout on the tires, we tell them somewhere between 16 and 18 pounds. The biggest thing that we tell them is that if they've been launching on another regular street tire, and let's say you've been launching at 4,500-5,000 rpm, do not go out there (on our tires) and air them down to 17-18 pounds and try to launch at that kind of rpm, because you're going to break something. They'll say, no, no but we tell them that's why they're signing the waiver. They'll come back with their axle in their hand, and they're proud of it! We say, we told you!
Heating the Hides
We know of some racers that absolutely annihilate drag radials in the burnout box, but according to Steen, The compound itself works best at somewhere between 160 and 180 degrees. Now you'll see some of these racers doing these huge burnouts on our tires, and it's all for show. Once you get these tires up to 200 degrees, at that point you're just burning rubber. Now, it will take somebody some real time in test and tune to figure out how much of a burnout it takes to get the tire somewhere around 160-180. In unscientific terms, think about getting a stove up to that temperature and putting your hand on it - that's warm to the touch for sure. It doesn't flat-out burn you, but if someone was to put their hand on the tire after the burnout, you shouldn't be able to just rest your hand on it. If not, you're leaving grip on the table.
Tire Additives?
We've heard that VHT and stuff like that work s well with drag radial compounds so we mentioned that to Steen also. He said, we haven't found anywhere that VHT or any kind of traction compound has worked against us, but it is a street-legal tire, so normal pavement with no additives, it will still work like it's supposed to. For the most part, it should be the same, although it might take some adjustment to the tire pressure to get the most out of the tire. The biggest thing we stress is that because they're street legal, don't leave the track while you're still driving around on 16 or 18 pounds.
Drag Tires in Street Tire Clothing
If drag radials can be run on the street can they be treated like street tires? We queried Steen. Absolutely, they can be rotated, and run against the grain. You won't get extra traction. Preferably, you'll run them in the direction the tread is pointed, but it won't hurt them. As a matter of fact, there are three guys who swear to me that they got better traction when they turned them around. If it works on your car, it works on your car, but in theory it shouldn't make a difference.'
Should answer some questions.
Source: http://www.fscmag.com/techstory/issue1004/techstory1004.html
[/font]
Kooldino said:
