#1289 - A story of rebirth

So I worked on it again today even though I don't have the radiator yet. I am taking my time and doing this pipe rerouting right. I don't want to revisit this again.

I really went out of my way to make this as clean as possible. THe I sprayed it with silver metallic so it wont rust






I cleaned this one wheel and sprayed the caliper. It came out really nice. I am gonna get some drilled and slotted rotors and address the brakes soon / next. It will really set it off in there. This picture is high quality enough you can really see the door dings and whatnut. I cannot wait to get rid of that thing.



What else..

New bumper is on the car to test fit intercooler piping. (Its sad looking)

Gotta do the clean/caliper paint on the other 3 wheels.

Looking into pricing a proper paint job on this new bumper

Didn't pull the trigger on the Eibachs.. I don't want the ass end lower than the front.. Might go with TEIN's... or B&G? I think thats the brand..

Found a local guy that will do tint for reasonable.. so waiting on the door for that

I believe this door will have the actuator in it. My rear drivers actuator is shot. I think I can rob the gear thingy out of one and use it on the other.

Hydra motorsports just finished a new run of gauge rings.. I ordered them weeks ago, so I should be seeing them soon.

Oh yeah.. I got those cowl bolt covers form Zealous.. the cowl ones fit, the windshield wiper ones dont. Oh well..

Thats about it for now...
I have a set off the wreaked speed I'll send them out to ya
 
I missed so much, where do I start... So the wiper caps usually need a dab of silicone on them to keep them from flying off because they shrink after 11+ years in the sun. The door actuators do not swap from door to door, they are specific front/rear and left/right. You can remove the black vinyl on the door frames and there is fresh paint underneath, FYI. The springs may sag some in the rear with the stock struts but some springs like the road magnets are made for the MSP and are a true 1" drop all around. You have to get regular Pro rear struts to get the advertised drop from most springs. Tein S techs are probably the best looking without getting coilovers. Personally I don't like the red calipers on a gray car but I have had at least two friends with titaniums that wanted to do the same thing so maybe I have strange taste.

And Mishimoto has a badass warranty and replacement policy IMO, you won't have to ship the old rad back. I sold mine when my first mishi rad started leaking by the cap after a year or so and the guy easily repaired it and used it. I didn't berate or harrass them just sent them a pic of the leak and proof of purchase and they shipped me a new rad no questions asked.
 
My friend Robin is getting a lathe maybe I should have her make some aluminum Mazda speed waper caps 😊
 
Last edited:
Why would the Eibachs make the ass end sit lower than the front?

I'm sure theres a technical answer.. but I'm not sure that what your asking. It clearly lists the drop


Eibach: http://www.proimporttuners.com/parts/2000-mazda/protege-eibach-pro-kit-springs.html?utm_source=googleproductsearch&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=product&gclid=Cj0KEQjww42tBRCO-sfEiO3DvYMBEiQAHeqMKLFt5avZAfIG7IEoAKmRW8XfPghTm5kr-FWEqz3cqPgaAivm8P8HAQ

"Pro-Kit Coil Spring Lowering Kit with 1.4" Front and 1.8" Rear Body Drop by Eibach."

Which means its "raked" in the back.. I've had many people tell me this as well...



VS TEINS: https://www.octanemotorsports.com/1999-2004-mazda-protege-tein-stech-lowering-springs-p-148983.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjww42tBRCO-sfEiO3DvYMBEiQAHeqMKIiZF96Pe6tWoqYEj2Cdno91TTKcfixgQ4oq7bMPVV4aAkl-8P8HAQ

Chassis: BJFP
Spring rate front kgf/mm,lbs/in: 3.2/179
Spring rate rear kgf/mm,lbs/in: 2.6/145
Ride height drop front mm: -50
Ride height drop front inch: -2 <-----
Ride height drop rear mm: -36
Ride height rear inch: -1.4 <-----


VS H&R http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=H%26R&model=Sport+Spring+Set&partnum=51653&GCID=C13674x012-suspension&KEYWORD=suspension_H&R_Sport_Spring_Set=&code=yes&group=Sport+Spring+Set&autoMake=Mazda&autoModel=Protege+4wd&autoYear=1994&autoModClar=&checkVehicle=&src=17540115&ci_sku=51653&ci_sku=51653&ci_src=17588969&ef_id=VUqmQQAABXvv2jpz:20150713165524:s

"Note: Avg Low 1.25"F, 1.0"R"
lowered ride height between 1.25" 1.8" on average can be expected.
 
The larger drop in the rear is to level the car, not to hike the back end up. The confusion is because the MSP has different rear struts that the regular protege (the spring perch is .75" higher on the strut), so when companies advertise a 2" drop (for a regular Pro) an MSP guy is going to buy them and be disappointed when the front drops 2" and the rear drops almost half that. Most springs are about a 1" drop so when people install springs on the stock struts the rear sits about the same height as stock, making for a raked look.
 
The door actuators do not swap from door to door, they are specific front/rear and left/right.

I think you misunderstood me. I am talking about taking the actuator apart and taking out the gear thingy that broke.. swapping it over INTO the other actuator, that's on the car. When I looked into fixing it a while ago, there was only 1 gear thingy.. there wasn't a specific gear for specific actuators. I think its the same gear in all of the actuators... no?


You can remove the black vinyl on the door frames and there is fresh paint underneath, FYI.

I'm confused about this comment.. specifically what you mean.. but also why this would apply to me

The springs may sag some in the rear with the stock struts but some springs like the road magnets are made for the MSP and are a true 1" drop all around. You have to get regular Pro rear struts to get the advertised drop from most springs. Tein S techs are probably the best looking without getting coilovers. Personally I don't like the red calipers on a gray car but I have had at least two friends with titaniums that wanted to do the same thing so maybe I have strange taste.

I'm hearing "yes your leaning towards the TEIN is probably the best move" lol

Also, I cannot think of another color that would look better, without looking like too much or being completely understated (yellow, or black/silver.. respectively)
I think blue would look alright, but I think a nice red caliper, with wheels that don't hide it, never goes out of style. But thats me..

Mishimoto has a badass warranty and replacement policy IMO, you won't have to ship the old rad back. I sold mine when my first mishi rad started leaking by the cap after a year or so and the guy easily repaired it and used it. I didn't berate or harrass them just sent them a pic of the leak and proof of purchase and they shipped me a new rad no questions asked.

This is good to know. I am tired of waiting and I didn't want to JB weld this thing if I was gonna have to send it back. To wait or not to wait... I could get this welded and make a couple bucks..

I didn't harass or berate them.. I just "stayed on them". I was nice.. but also thorough with the follow up. They shipped me a new one, but it was definitely NOT "no questions asked". Maybe they've changed some policies..
 
Ah... that makes sense... But then won't the rest of the car look dull? If the paint is matched to a hidden area like that and then the fresh bumper goes on a car with old paint?
 
I have the old bumper, old bumper insert, and the new (old) bumper insert. all titanium. I was thinking to give them the insert (that came with my car) and the new bumper.. and have them color match that..
 
Alright.. so I'm struggling figuring out which thread to post in now. Obviously the WDYDTYMSP thread is more popular and more closely followed, but when I post in there (not every time, but) I feel like I'm threadjacking... Even if I did that work "today" lol. Plus it takes away from MY thread (the stuff I do) SO if you wanna keep up with #1289, thats gonna happen here from now on. I may comment loosely here and there (over there) but I'm not posting any pics.. put it that way.

So I had mentioned that this fricken radiator still hasn't shown up.. Zealous said not to use JB Weld.. that he has issues (JB was my first idea)

So I shopped... and read... and read...

Something caught my eye (being a "retired" chef.. lol) I am familiar with "NSF". If you see that logo it basically means you can eat off it. Also I am sure there are other chemical makeup specifications that go along with it. If you see a stainless steel table in a restaurant kitchen... somewhere you'll see NSF on it.

I also noticed "drinking water safe"

its this stuff


The temperature (500*F) is perfect. If it gets more than 500* up against the radiator, you've got bigger problems anyways.. lol

You go on the back and it specifically says ALUMINUM.. as well as RADIATOR



So.. lets see what happens.

If this holds well I will test it for a couple weeks before offering it up..
 
Last edited:
First off sorry for the confusion, the coolent was the issue with my jb weld holding on. Second I love steelstick it is great! And recommended in intake manifold butterfly delete.
 
First off sorry for the confusion, the coolent was the issue with my jb weld holding on. Second I love steelstick it is great! And recommended in intake manifold butterfly delete.

No confusion man. I heard that part. If you read the back of that box it says "Impervious to chemicals". So I THINK I should be able to get away with this. The hole is so small it doesn't leak cold - only hot, and its still only dripping. So when the rain stops I will go do this.. lol

Did you take any pics when you deleted the butterfly?
 
Oh yeah.. these showed up today. Thanks Chris! Unfortunately I don't have (or yet know) where to find / what size the bolts are to hold this on yet. SO.. they're just sitting here



I already have two nice ones on the car so I don't need the other two that didn't age as well.


However, I already feel a lot better just knowing that I now have a complete set... This car is gonna be so awesome when I'm done.


WHOA.. BIG EDIT: I found the bolts.. they were in there.. I didn't see them at first. SCORE!
 
Last edited:

New Threads and Articles

Back