2013~2016 103k miles - shocks and struts replacement

bob ross

Member
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Mazda CX-5 AWD 2.0L
OP didn't say the model year and trim level of his 2.0L AWD CX-5. I believe his should be early 2013~2014 CX-5 Sport or Touring? This means $800 for a set of 225/65R17 is more expensive than you thought.

BTW with your standard OP should be very disappointed as for early CX-5's there're problems on front lower control-arm bushing, and TSBs were issued to replace those lower control arms.

2013 cx5 Touring AWD 2.0L L4 DOHC 16V

JM3KE4CE4

If there is a TSB for suspension out on this - I would be very interested to know.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
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Plano, Texas, USA
So yeah - thats my dilemma. Wondering if the suspension caused the bald tire. He didnt say that, but suggested getting new suspension since Im keeping it 100k more miles.... which makes sense. We have a good relationship so I think if struts were causing the alignment issue he would have said as much.
A responsible alignment shop sush as BrakePlus I like to use will give you an alignment printout showing before and after settings. If all the settings including camber in suspicion are all within specs (in green on the printout) then the adjustments somehow has fixed your camber issue. Your mechanic confused you on saying "suspension components". Getting new struts and/or shocks shouldn't affect the alignment under most circumstances unless the mechanic did something unnecessarily. IMO I certainly wouldn't call replacing struts and shocks as "new suspension", certainly wouldn't say the suspension caused the bald tire on inner side, and you need new struts and shocks to fix that! As bad struts and shocks cause cupped wear, not the wear like yours.

Struts and shocks are not like barkes, they can wait to get replaced unless there're signs of failure. And in your situation I can't see any signs of failure.
 

yrwei52

2016 Mazda CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech Pkg
Contributor
:
Plano, Texas, USA
2013 cx5 Touring AWD 2.0L L4 DOHC 16V

JM3KE4CE4

If there is a TSB for suspension out on this - I would be very interested to know.
Just like I guessed.

TSBs on suspension are useless for you now as you have to pay for replacement. Just wait until you hear the noise from front suspension, or your mechanic found something wrong.

We used to have a sticky thread listing many TSBs, but Mazda has forced us to remove all URL links and made the thread unsticky which make the thread almost useless:

SkyActiv TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins)

Still curious what brand、model、and size of your new tires? And what is your tire pressure?
 

bob ross

Member
:
Mazda CX-5 AWD 2.0L
A responsible alignment shop sush as BrakePlus I like to use will give you an alignment printout showing before and after settings. If all the settings including camber in suspicion are all within specs (in green on the printout) then the adjustments somehow has fixed your camber issue. Your mechanic confused you on saying "suspension components". Getting new struts and/or shocks shouldn't affect the alignment under most circumstances unless the mechanic did something unnecessarily. IMO I certainly wouldn't call replacing struts and shocks as "new suspension", certainly wouldn't say the suspension caused the bald tire on inner side, and you need new struts and shocks to fix that! As bad struts and shocks cause cupped wear, not the wear like yours.

Struts and shocks are not like barkes, they can wait to get replaced unless there're signs of failure. And in your situation I can't see any signs of failure.

3122f6685d21c862cba373d176fafa20.jpg


Attached is the alignment printout. I just found it on the seat lol.
 
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2014 mazda cx-5 touring FWD
You might want to see if there is any abnormal wear on the new tires before replacing shocks and struts.I'll probably go OEM for shocks and struts when mine needs them.I won't go Monroe "quickstruts" after having them twice in the past and the last time they went "soft" within 20,000 miles.These are a popular aftermarket replacement.Read up online about peoples experiences with Monroe,KYB,Gabriel and other (likely off brand)shocks and struts.The reviews for Bilsteins (pricey) were good but had to choose correct one's for best ride unless into performance ride (stiffer) and handling. Just my .02. Good luck. Jmaz
 

tibimakai

San Dimas CA
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USA
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2014 CX-5 Touring
I'm on CS springs, which shocks/struts should I get next time, when I need to replace them? I'm only at 50k, and to me they still seem OK.
 
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2014 mazda cx-5 touring FWD
tibimakai, I really don't know,some other members could answer that better.Sorry.At 50k miles they probably are still ok.I wouldn't be in a hurry to change them. Jmaz
 
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2014 CX-5 Touring
3122f6685d21c862cba373d176fafa20.jpg


Attached is the alignment printout. I just found it on the seat lol.

meh, that thrust angle sucks. Even though it's in the green I prefer thrust angle to be as close to 0.00 as humanly possible. That front toe out I'm sure is definitely what caused the abnormal tire wear, although I would have expected both front tires to be worn like that. Odd that it was only one tire.

I replaced rear shocks at 65K and the front struts at 82K. Rear shocks were blown due to a case of carrying too much weight in the back one time (bunch of lumber and concrete for a fence repair), and then I did the fronts when I had the money. Cost less than $300 in parts for KYB GR-2 units, plus new dust boots and bump stops. Then I got the lifetime Firestone alignment service for ~$170, which means I can take it back in every time I rotate the tires in the future.
 
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2016 CX-5 Touring
Shocks are funny, they wear out slowly and the average driver doesn't notice the degradation till they totally fail. Now you might be happy with how the car currently drives, but if you got in a new car (or replaced the shocks) you'd notice the difference.
 
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2018 CX-5 Sport
meh, that thrust angle sucks. Even though it's in the green I prefer thrust angle to be as close to 0.00 as humanly possible. That front toe out I'm sure is definitely what caused the abnormal tire wear, although I would have expected both front tires to be worn like that. Odd that it was only one tire.

I replaced rear shocks at 65K and the front struts at 82K. Rear shocks were blown due to a case of carrying too much weight in the back one time (bunch of lumber and concrete for a fence repair), and then I did the fronts when I had the money. Cost less than $300 in parts for KYB GR-2 units, plus new dust boots and bump stops. Then I got the lifetime Firestone alignment service for ~$170, which means I can take it back in every time I rotate the tires in the future.

I think that is as close to 0 as humanly possible. The good range is between -0.8 and 0.8 and they have it at 0.07 which is pretty much 0.