08.5 Mazdaspeed 3 Audio install

Let me start off with saying hello, im new to this forum, but not new to car audio, so I hope this post will help some of you out.

so, just picked up a 08 mazdaspeed 3 a few weeks ago, and now is the time to tear out the bose system.

A few goals for this build, number one is it to be as plug and play as possible. I want everything to look completely stock, and use as much factory wiring as possible. Also to get a nice SQL setup, the L is for showing off :D

I am SO SORRY that the pics are so crappy, but it was eleventy billion degrees out, and I just wanted to get the install done, so all I had was my cell phone.

The story begins with the bose amp under the drivers seat. I pull out the seat, and find the amp, then I notice that the harness going into it looks very similar to a newer generation GM radio harness. I was very lucky, because the headunit is supplying a line level out to the bose amp, so all I had to do was splice in some RCA's and run them to the new amp. So I do a little research, and find this little gem...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20154_PAC+ADD-GM24A.html
This is the perfect harness to the mazda amp, all I had to do was splice in a few wires, and move some pins around to get this...
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The nice thing about this is that I cut no factory wires, and everything is reversable when I want to sell the car. BTW here is the factory wire colors for the bose amp I pulled off another forum.

TOP - In order from left to right (Speaker Outs)
grey w/ red stripe (FR-)
white w/ red stripe (FR+)
grey w/ black stripe (FL-)
white w/ black stripe (FL+)
solid grey (BR-)
solid white (BR+)
grey w/ white stripe (BL-)
white w/ purple stripe (BL+)

BOTTOM - In order from left to right (signal inputs)
solid blue (remote turn on)
solid purple (FL+)
green w/ white paint (FL-)
solid red (FR+)
solid green (FR-)
brown w/ blue stripe (BL+)
yellow w/ blue stripe (BL-)
yellow w/ green stripe (BR+)
white w/ blue stripe (BR-)

The power wire was a snap to install, it was as if they designed the car to run power through the firewall. I pulled out the glovebox, and found a giant gromet with a harness running through it. in the gromet was a small rubber nub, if you cut out the nub, you get a perfect size hole for a 4gauge wire to pass through.
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Here is the engine side
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You cant see it that well, but there is also a channel along the top of the firewall that I tucked the power wire into to get to the other side of the car.

So now that the input and power is all done, we move onto the amps, I have a Rockford p300-2 for the Fronts pushing 100rms, and a Rockford p500-1bd pushing 700rms. I chose these amps because I had them laying around, so they're free.

I chose to mount the amps under the passenger seat, this is where the factory bose sub resides. This has to be the saddest attempt at producing a subwoofer...Ever.

How cute...
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Here are both amps stacked and wired up for the most part.
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These BARLEY fit under the seat, but there under there.

Next came the front speakers, I chose a set of Image Dynamics CTX-6.5cs comps. The main reason I chose these is because I had an ID sub in the past, and absolutely loved it, and I have read reviews on ID comps, and most of them are good. so I pulled the trigger and bought these. The speakers them selves are insanely heavy, almost 4lbs a piece. They look like they could take so abuse from the beefy magnet and large surround.

I tore out the bose speakers, and found that they use a ford harness
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so I bought this harness adapter
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I had to cut a few baffles because the factory size hole is a 6x8
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Did some eDead to dampen around the speaker, but didn't go crazy covering the who door.
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Next I found a little sunk in area in the door to mount the crossover.
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popped in the speaker and called it a day.
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I used the factory location for the tweeters, they are on the door near the mirrors, they popped right into place after pulling the bose units out, no custom mounting required, sorry no pics

Sub enclosure is coming next
 
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I still haven't decided on a subwoofer yet, so I am going to build the enclosure first to see how much volume I have to play with.

This is what I have to work with
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Step One is making the form to mount the top to.
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I almost forgot to Edead
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After deadening it, my exhaust used to drone at lower RPM's now that has gone away completely

Back to glassing... I used fiberglass a ton of times in the past, and I always used resin that needed a separate hardener. The problem with that is that you only have a small time window to work with it untill it hardens. I found this other product online, surfers use it, its called Solarez. It is a polyester resin that cures by UV rays, the sun. It was so nice to work with, I could lay an entire layer, back out the car, and it cures in 3 minutes :wow:
It isn't that expensive either, it cost me just over $40 shipped for a whole gallon, not tto bad if you ask me. Here it is...
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Lay down the foil so the fiberglass will pop out nice and easy
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so, the first layer goes down
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Pop out the mold, and you have yourself a nice kiddie pool
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There is still a bit of foil stuck to it, no harm just ugly

Thats as far as I got today, I will put on a few more layers soon, but the resin fumes are getting to me.

What is the best way to measure the volume of this enclosure, I used water in the past, but im wondering if there is some other way.
 
Nice work so far. It looks like it will be a great stealth system :)
 
here is one way of finding out volume
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I found out it took 19 gallons, which comes out to be 2.53 cubic feet. I didnt think I had that much space, so what subs should i get.

I have a max of 7" of depth, and 700watts at 1ohm, and my limit is around $300 for a single or multiple subs.
 
Would I be correct in assuming you are shooting for a more SQ/SQL type system than just LOUD?
 
yeah, SQ is the goal, but it still needs to be loud enough at highway speeds with the windows down.

The subs are going to be purchased in a few weeks, I just went over my budget on a new set of wheels.
 
Good stuff and nice write-up! How much mounting depth is there for the front door speakers? Plenty/not enough to be worried about it?
 
One thing I would strongly suggest...
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If you do nothing else, you might want to consider removing that clear "diaphragm" piece in the upper left corner in this picture, for each door. From personal experience, I found that with real speakers in the door, midbass notes at a decent volume would cause that piece to become a passive radiator, and the sound it made was anything but pleasant. I think "why the **** is my door farting?" was my initial reaction...

What I did for each door was remove the diaphragm, cut two pieces of deadener to that shape, one a mirror image of the other, and slapped them together to cover the hole.
door.jpg
 
I haven't had any bad noises coming from that baffle, and I really dont feel like pulling the door off again.

just a few more shots of the progress on the box, built a frame for the top to mount, and a nice layer of undercoating...
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Is that going to be a sealed enclosure? If so, I think 2.5 cu. ft. is pretty darn huge for SQ, even for a 12. I like the IDQ's, but even a 12 only needs about 1 cube. You may want to think about taking some volume out of that enclosure. Nice choice of speakers.
 
im actually going to do 2 RE SRX12D4 12" subs. I do need to take out some volume. Im going to build some bracing, so that should do the trick.
 
I know the thread is old, but I enjoy your build log. Can you update with pics of the finished work? I'm interested to see how you finished out the sub box and cover.
 
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