07 Mazdaspeed3 with 2 blown engines and no mods

[Betelgeuse]

Yeah I have to agree with the above. I've floored it in 6th so many times I can't count. The engine makes and abundance of torque and with the short gearing, pulls well in any gear. Of course lugging the engine in a high gear for any length of time is NOT good at all but a few times in the life of a stock engine should not be an issue. Plus, these new ECUs are designed with so many safeguards, it's unlikely they'll blow so easily.

I learned on this car and have put the engine under some serious stress early on and at 34k there are no sign of any issues (knock on wood).


Like I said, if we're getting the whole story (which tends to be 50/50 on most forums imo) the op simply had a bad engine (and subsequent bad luck).

 

[Super Unique]

well so far, we have noticed that it tends to be the number 4 cylinder, and since it happens so frequently in that cylinder it does help to try and figure out what is different about that one in particular? We also know that the wrist pin seems to be what is failing, causing the rod to exit stage left

Also of note is the use of a "floating" wrist pin on this engine design. No matter how you figure it out, nobody wants to be "one of those guys" who suffers a failed engine. Then again, if your in that situation and forced to deal with it on your own, a new block and some nice forged pistons and better wrist pins and rods would see to prevent any further failures. Personally, I think it was a mistake on Mazda's part to not already include forged pistons in their initial design of this engine. They are under a LOT of boost for a stock engine.

 

[staples187]

mechanic error? if you want to be a mechanic for a dealer, you have to go through 2 years of school, they dont hire anybody just off the streets..(friday)

Not true, a lot of dealerships hire employees through third party companies. In a sense, they do have some minor training (the basic level mechanics), but they're not actually Mazda certified. Some locations do have a Master Certified Mazda Tech that do motor swaps, pulling and reinstalling new transmissions ect. Most of the employees only know how to do oil changes, fluids, brakes and a few other basic things.

That's what a service manager actually told me lol.

 

[justa4banger]

well so far, we have noticed that it tends to be the number 4 cylinder, and since it happens so frequently in that cylinder it does help to try and figure out what is different about that one in particular? We also know that the wrist pin seems to be what is failing, causing the rod to exit stage left

Also of note is the use of a "floating" wrist pin on this engine design. No matter how you figure it out, nobody wants to be "one of those guys" who suffers a failed engine. Then again, if your in that situation and forced to deal with it on your own, a new block and some nice forged pistons and better wrist pins and rods would see to prevent any further failures. Personally, I think it was a mistake on Mazda's part to not already include forged pistons in their initial design of this engine. They are under a LOT of boost for a stock engine.

DO you even know what you are talking about........????

Floating wrist pins have been around for a LONG time, especially in racing. Its a better way to have the pistons attached to the rod. The other method of Press pins requires you to Freeze the pin and heat the rod inorder to press it into place. the heating of the rod, COULD cause a failure faster, since your COULD overheat the rod and weaken it.

Floating pins also have better oiling characteristics and less friction. But if the #4 wrist is failing then there must be an issue with oiling to that cyl, OR wristpin design. Floating pins are no where close to being new in design

As far as not having forged pistons, why should they??????? if you leave the car as intended it will live a long and prosperous life, if add more boost trying to make more power and it goes POP.....tough s***.

My old SVO had forged pistons...........WHY .........because in 1984 they didn't have the technology to control the motors the way they can today. So in order to save on warranty issues, it was cheaper to add forged pistons. Forged pistons are more forgiving for detonation, climate changes, lower octane and bad tuning........ you know the normal stuff people expose cars to.

 

[sunny4201]

Well, now i regret buying this car, i think im going to trade it in for a used G35 coupe.

 

[MS3077]

I agree with justa4banger. I mean really guys what did you expect from this car? It already comes with a 2.3L turbo DISI motor that pushes 263hp/280ft/tq, this is a lot of power coming from a little motor. Just enjoy it for what it is and be prepared to shell out $$ if something breaks because you wanted to up the boost or some other crazy s***. I can already see it, this car is going to end of with a crappy reliability rating due to the fact that so many ppl are going to mod the s*** out of it and break it. I'm not talking about intakes and exhaust. A poor reliability rating is going to **** it up for those of us that want to get a good trade in value for it.

 

[Super Unique]

DO you even know what you are talking about........????

Floating wrist pins have been around for a LONG time, especially in racing. Its a better way to have the pistons attached to the rod. The other method of Press pins requires you to Freeze the pin and heat the rod inorder to press it into place. the heating of the rod, COULD cause a failure faster, since your COULD overheat the rod and weaken it.

Floating pins also have better oiling characteristics and less friction. But if the #4 wrist is failing then there must be an issue with oiling to that cyl, OR wristpin design. Floating pins are no where close to being new in design

As far as not having forged pistons, why should they??????? if you leave the car as intended it will live a long and prosperous life, if add more boost trying to make more power and it goes POP.....tough s***.

My old SVO had forged pistons...........WHY .........because in 1984 they didn't have the technology to control the motors the way they can today. So in order to save on warranty issues, it was cheaper to add forged pistons. Forged pistons are more forgiving for detonation, climate changes, lower octane and bad tuning........ you know the normal stuff people expose cars to.

the wrist pins are having design issues or they wouldn't be failing. Truth be told, a lot of our engine issues seem to be fuel map and ecu related. For whatever reason, the set of sensors they decided to use, and the rather unique set of issues we are dealing with lead to the demise of the engine when things get a little out of sorts.

1. Fuel- There are some issues with the stock Direct Injection pump related to flow capacity and it's relationship to how quickly the engine can react to a lean condition.

2. Floating wrist pins- as you stated , floating wrist pins have been around forever, and provide lubrication and friction benefits. For whatever reason, ours aren't working out so well.

3. ECU Tuning - Tuning this engine without a full understanding of the ECU and fuel maps is dangerous at best, and a direct cause of engine failure at worst. Right now we are second guessing things and attempting to reverse engineer the ECU and figure out it's maps and reactions to various sensor signals. Once you start bolting on several aftermarket components (to improve flow capacities) you are deviating significantly from the ECU design parameters. MAP clamps, manual boost controllers and (so far) ecu retunes such as COBB's access port are simply going around the system, so be aware of that and willing to accept the results should bad things happen.

Out of all we have seen, the ECU is the most siginificant issue affecting the engine, and once it is fully understood and more complete solutions engineered, then you can attempt to be serious about reliable performance modifications.

 

[SPEED3TYPE2]

sorry to hear!! It has something to do with the parrt throttle..i'm at 38,500miles and no problems i have a heavy foot, and mods

 

[3.slow]

There are many things to be said about this situation

1. Flooring the car in a high gear while at low rpm's: This should not be done because you are loading up the car with boost down low, boom can occur over time. I am NOT accusing the OP of anything, nor do I think any of it is his fault

2. Lemon Laws- Check your state's laws. . . Most states have a law that if they is a problem and it is repeated 3-4 in 12,000-16,000 miles, you can lemon law. But, if your car is out of service for 30 days or more, you are entitled to lemon law. You waited for a motor for 60 days, this is a valid reason for Lemon law. The only time that waiting on parts over 30 days is acceptable is when war, natural disasters, and so on keep the parts from physically being brought over (No the Iraq war doesnt count)

Under law you deserve a new car or a buy back agreement. You are still entitled to this.

 

[mazdaspeedster3]

I bought my speed3 in Feb07 so Im guessing it was one of the firsts, I love the car but it has become a love/hate relationship. I had the engine recalls (bolt, seal, actuator) taken care of early on, Oct 07 at about 8,000, may not be relevant but it was the beginning. then at 12 months and 15,000 I blew a rod in 6th gear doing 60mph on the way home from work, there was no warning. It was suggested that maybe I beat too hard on the car. I dont beat on the car, I drive it cautiously and I try not to speed , had a few tickets in my earlier years and I value my low rates. The dealership knows and I know there is no way I can cause a blown rod with normal driving, there has never been a question of warranty, the dealer took care of it but it took 2 months to get an engine from Japan, dont know what thats all about but I didnt have to pay for the rental so I was patient. I got the car back and the next day the starter blew, another tow and a day later I got it back again and went about my business. Three weeks later, the car died again, in the same manner, driving along and it just dies. This time it was the timing in the cam which caused damage to the engine, Mazda was still back ordered on engines so I would have to wait another month. So instead, Mazda worked it out with the dealer to take the engine apart and have a machine shop fix it and then they rebuilt it. I dont have technical knowledge about engines but I know enough to know that I got a lemon. I paid for a brand new car and I love the car but regret the decision to buy a new model its first year. Ill never make that mistake again. Now I sit in fear that if I take a road trip my car will die somewhere in the middle of bum-*****-Egypt or worse after the manufacturers warranty ends. I have lost faith in the car.but I still love driving it. It should also be noted that I have not done any modifications to the car and kept the maintenance up, hell not a whole lot involved when its only a year old with 16,000 miles.

Lemon law that thing, done deal. Get an 08.5!

 

[KrGsMrNKusinagi]

If you floored it in 6th gear at that rpm and speed then yea its your fault

 

[MSMS3]

I know this board has gotten a little slow , but reviving a 5 year old thread?

We've learned quite a bit about this issue since then. Much of the early speculation in this old thread was not borne out over time. There are much more detailed and accurate analysis threads with datalog and engine tear down details and photos over at MSF. The potential problem is multifactorial. You really can't single out one thing. When one of these engines let's go at low rpm, the "terminal event" is usually not the true cause. There is almost always evidence of earlier damage occurring over time under a variety of operating conditions, not just going WOT below 3,000 rpm.